[familyMAN]

Yep, have to try to keep up with Alex at the autocross at Shootout. But won’t have time to replace my slow steering rack so kind of pointless. Lol

I’ll get them for the front also at some point. The free falkens have a little life yet.

 

[familyMAN]

Stock parts. . Trimmed, melted and zip tied the stock rad shroud on

Now if only I could bleed the damn brakes. New master on. New line lock. Won’t bleed. Building a pressure bleeder tomorrow and shoving fluid thru everything.

Still have to drop trans and finishing wiring but brakes are taking literal days of my time.

 

[Devilmightcry]

Did you try quick bleeder that sucks fluid out?

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[familyMAN]

I have a little vac pump u put on the bleeder nipples. Pretty much useless with this amount of empty lines. I use it for my motorcycle(s).

 

[naturallyaspirated74]

I have a little vac pump u put on the bleeder nipples. Pretty much useless with this amount of empty lines. I use it for my motorcycle(s).

Have you tried gravity bleeding?

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[familyMAN]

Have you tried gravity bleeding?

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For hours last night. Not a drop lower in master

 

[RealMcCoy]

You positive you don't have the piston preloaded a little and blocking the feed hole?

I put vacuum to the reservoir and suck the air out the top... You can usually get most of it out pretty quickly that way. (at least get you to a point where a normal bleed process will be successful)

I do the same to power steering systems. Sometimes it can take days to work all the air out and get them to shut up... Pulling a vacuum on them can do it in a few minutes.

 

[familyMAN]

You positive you don't have the piston preloaded a little and blocking the feed hole?

I put vacuum to the reservoir and suck the air out the top... You can usually get most of it out pretty quickly that way. (at least get you to a point where a normal bleed process will be successful)

I do the same to power steering systems. Sometimes it can take days to work all the air out and get them to shut up... Pulling a vacuum on them can do it in a few minutes.

yes, positive.

so vacuum on the master before I have fluid in all the lines?

I think I'm still doing pressure to master also to push fluid to the rear. I can get fluid to the front. Not really building much pressure though. Because of lack of fluid to rear?

 

[lawdogg]

Didn't you run your own lines? Have you disconnected and checked them to verify flow?

 

[familyMAN]

All new -3AN. I definitely have some fluid making its way back. I have messed around with the lines and had fluid everywhere. Maybe just need to pump and crack bleeders for hours. But I’m planning on building a pressure system today with a pressure sprayer.

 

[lawdogg]

All new -3AN. I definitely have some fluid making its way back. I have messed around with the lines and had fluid everywhere. Maybe just need to pump and crack bleeders for hours. But I’m planning on building a pressure system today with a pressure sprayer.

I don't know the answer - but on the other hand, if there's too much air in the lines, that'll prevent successful bleeding I imagine.

 

[RealMcCoy]

yes, positive.

so vacuum on the master before I have fluid in all the lines?

I think I'm still doing pressure to master also to push fluid to the rear. I can get fluid to the front. Not really building much pressure though. Because of lack of fluid to rear?

Pulling a vacuum on the reservoir is going to make the air and fluid trade places... I usually keep the reservoir about half full so I'm not sucking any fluid out with the vacuum pump.

 

[familyMAN]

Pulling a vacuum on the reservoir is going to make the air and fluid trade places... I usually keep the reservoir about half full so I'm not sucking any fluid out with the vacuum pump.

Okay makes sense. Think it will work with miles of empty lines?

 

[mdcrose]

Can't you vacuum fill by drawing fluid through the bleed screws?

 

[familyMAN]

Tried didn’t do shit.

Shopping trip...I’m now armed with speed bleeders front and rear, extra MC cap, hose barb for cap, and a pressure sprayer. Think I’ll pressurize fluid thru the lines first. Then vacuum to pull any residual air that may be hiding in MC. Then some pumps with speed bleeders. Then hopefully I don’t have to push the car into my pond after first lighting it on fire.


The vw and old BMW guys swear by the pressure bleed. Works good for old ABS systems too apparently.

 

[ga94vr4]

Tried didn’t do shit.

Shopping trip...I’m now armed with speed bleeders front and rear, extra MC cap, hose barb for cap, and a pressure sprayer. Think I’ll pressurize fluid thru the lines first. Then vacuum to pull any residual air that may be hiding in MC. Then some pumps with speed bleeders. Then hopefully I don’t have to push the car into my pond after first lighting it on fire.


The vw and old BMW guys swear by the pressure bleed. Works good for old ABS systems too apparently.

I have speed bleeders on everything...best investment ever.

 

[RealMcCoy]

Unless you seal the threads somehow when you loosen the bleeders, pulling vacuum on the bleeder end isn't always as effective due to the air pulling around the threads.

I've also seen pistons stick in the master. If that happens you only have brakes on one end of the car...

 

[familyMAN]

Finally got it [emoji4]

Problems...
1) Wilwood master that I was messing with last couple weeks needs rebuilt.....replaced with aerospace master
2) line lock last week leaked and refused to seal....replaced with a new line lock and thread taped the shit out of everything as instructed by seller
3) aerospace had tiny trapped bubbles...I did get them all out eventually last night with bench bleeding at various angles and tapping on it
4) hydro brake....took it out of the equation last week by by-passing it....when I hooked it up late last night I hooked it up backwards...swapped that, and immediately starting pushing fluid to rear. [emoji3]. Oops.

So good master, non-leaking line lock, and correct lines in-out on hydro and she’s good to go. Had to adjust the hydro piston arm a bit to get the rear brakes to release all the way, but that was easy.

FINALLY get to move forward, which is a step back (lol) by removing the trans to replace seals and rear main. And drop driveshaft to space the carrier down. Likely if I spaced the carrier, my tailshaft leak would disappear and the others aren’t very bad. Trying to talk myself into dropping trans, but really don’t want to. [emoji20] [emoji3]

Then I get to finally finish wiring and tune all the toys.

Oh and one last fabrication surprise I’ve been planning. [emoji6]


Edit: just doing tailshaft seal and carrier spacing first. Can drop trans later if needed.

 

[Marshall Taylor]

Did your more shallow transmission pan arrive? If so, are you going to install it at this time? I know you had to cringe when you heard it scrapping your driveway on your initial test drive.

Marshall

 

[familyMAN]

Yes and yes. Trans fluid is already drained.