Awwww shit. This is happening
rly3:
Wanted a turbo v8 project. Thought about other cars, but tough to find an inexpensive ride that looks as good as a 3S and I don't have the space to have two toys, so swapping Grean Bean. As most of you have seen, been selling off a lot of parts which was needed to fund project and clear space.
General plan...Street/Strip/Handling....7-800whp street tune and 900-1000whp on kill for track. Building my own chromoly subrame with fully adjustable control arms. Using foxbody spindles (tons of brake options). Garrett (meat missile) is building me a chromoly rear subframe, adjustable control arms and chromoly adjustable trailing arm.
Going to use a 5.3 truck engine and a built to the hilt powerglide. Gearing of a glide is basically just 2nd and 3rd of a 3 speed trans (1.80:1,1:1). Will have plenty of power and a billet converter matched for combo so 1st isn't even needed.
Planning to use 3.31 ratio 6 sp diff, but have a 3.56 5 sp also. Eventually will get 27" street tires and 28" slicks but that's last on the list. Plenty of gear (28" and 3.31 at 7500 rpm is 105mph in 1st and 189mph in 2nd)
Already have a stock iron longblock and aluminum long block with a texas speed cam, dual valve springs and pushrods. I bought 210lb bosch injectors, fancy fuel rails and injector adapters and have those mounted in an LS6 manifold (need to keep the engine low since I won't be cutting a hole in the hood).
Ironblock and mock up trans
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Truck 5.3 aluminum block and I installed corvette waterpump, corvette damper and a fancy alt relocation
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Engine management is ms3Pro-evo with LS harness. I stripped everything not needed from 3S harness. 17lbs worth. MS3Pro EVO GM LS 24x Plug and Play Custom Harness Package This has a built in 4 bar sensor. I have two hall effect sensors for front and rear wheel speed for traction control. Also ordered a second AEM trimpot so I'll have a dial for allowed slip % between rear and front wheels. Can dial for wet conditions or rolling burnouts[emoji3] Flex fuel of course and many more goodies.
Had the engine where I wanted it but decided, if I'm cutting, keep cutting. Going to recess the engine back another 6". Will be nearly front mid-engine. Found a trick hot-rodders use....steel wheelbarrow tub. $20. Perfect shape and angles deeper at bottom for bellhousing. More to come on that. It's a bit to wide at bottom, so I have to cut a pie piece out and pull the bottom in so it fits between the stock subframe mounting studs.
Aluminum engine may get rods and pistons. Undecided. Stock bottom end 5.3 have gone 7.6x in a 2950lb mustang, so they hold a ton of power, but any hiccup and you have a rod shooting through the block. The iron blocks are dirt cheap at $550 for a whole long block ready to drop in with an ecu even. So most just run them and swap them if they break. Aluminum saves 110lbs and should make my car lighter than with 4cyl auto, but you pay a premium, so I don't want to put a hole in it.
80mm s400 style turbo from VSracing. $835 christmas sale. Others have dynoed 1000whp thru an auto with this turbo and a 5.3. I'm going no intercooler though. Pump gas on street and low boost. E85 for high boost and will pre-turbo spray nitrous for some cooling [emoji14]
Lots more to cut. Lot of little things. (brake lines, line lock, dropping my seat lower, paint engine bay?, etc). Lots of fab and welding. Engine build(s). But the plan is in motion. Figured I would share.
See you at the shootout. (and no it won't count for 3S records.)
Flame suit ready.....:moon2:
rly3:Wanted a turbo v8 project. Thought about other cars, but tough to find an inexpensive ride that looks as good as a 3S and I don't have the space to have two toys, so swapping Grean Bean. As most of you have seen, been selling off a lot of parts which was needed to fund project and clear space.
General plan...Street/Strip/Handling....7-800whp street tune and 900-1000whp on kill for track. Building my own chromoly subrame with fully adjustable control arms. Using foxbody spindles (tons of brake options). Garrett (meat missile) is building me a chromoly rear subframe, adjustable control arms and chromoly adjustable trailing arm.
Going to use a 5.3 truck engine and a built to the hilt powerglide. Gearing of a glide is basically just 2nd and 3rd of a 3 speed trans (1.80:1,1:1). Will have plenty of power and a billet converter matched for combo so 1st isn't even needed.
Planning to use 3.31 ratio 6 sp diff, but have a 3.56 5 sp also. Eventually will get 27" street tires and 28" slicks but that's last on the list. Plenty of gear (28" and 3.31 at 7500 rpm is 105mph in 1st and 189mph in 2nd)
Already have a stock iron longblock and aluminum long block with a texas speed cam, dual valve springs and pushrods. I bought 210lb bosch injectors, fancy fuel rails and injector adapters and have those mounted in an LS6 manifold (need to keep the engine low since I won't be cutting a hole in the hood).
Ironblock and mock up trans
Truck 5.3 aluminum block and I installed corvette waterpump, corvette damper and a fancy alt relocation
Engine management is ms3Pro-evo with LS harness. I stripped everything not needed from 3S harness. 17lbs worth. MS3Pro EVO GM LS 24x Plug and Play Custom Harness Package This has a built in 4 bar sensor. I have two hall effect sensors for front and rear wheel speed for traction control. Also ordered a second AEM trimpot so I'll have a dial for allowed slip % between rear and front wheels. Can dial for wet conditions or rolling burnouts[emoji3] Flex fuel of course and many more goodies.
Had the engine where I wanted it but decided, if I'm cutting, keep cutting. Going to recess the engine back another 6". Will be nearly front mid-engine. Found a trick hot-rodders use....steel wheelbarrow tub. $20. Perfect shape and angles deeper at bottom for bellhousing. More to come on that. It's a bit to wide at bottom, so I have to cut a pie piece out and pull the bottom in so it fits between the stock subframe mounting studs.
Aluminum engine may get rods and pistons. Undecided. Stock bottom end 5.3 have gone 7.6x in a 2950lb mustang, so they hold a ton of power, but any hiccup and you have a rod shooting through the block. The iron blocks are dirt cheap at $550 for a whole long block ready to drop in with an ecu even. So most just run them and swap them if they break. Aluminum saves 110lbs and should make my car lighter than with 4cyl auto, but you pay a premium, so I don't want to put a hole in it.
80mm s400 style turbo from VSracing. $835 christmas sale. Others have dynoed 1000whp thru an auto with this turbo and a 5.3. I'm going no intercooler though. Pump gas on street and low boost. E85 for high boost and will pre-turbo spray nitrous for some cooling [emoji14]
Lots more to cut. Lot of little things. (brake lines, line lock, dropping my seat lower, paint engine bay?, etc). Lots of fab and welding. Engine build(s). But the plan is in motion. Figured I would share.
See you at the shootout. (and no it won't count for 3S records.)
Flame suit ready.....:moon2:
