Have you looked under the car to confirm a dented oil pan? It sounds like you are asking if you have a dented oil pan, which we will not be able to answer.

Is your oil light on in the car?

 

Haven't checked yet, weather has been rainy all morning. It's starting to clear up though so I'm going to head out and check now.

Does it sound like a spun bearing? That's my real question, I really don't know the difference between lifter tick, spun bearings etc. sound-wise. It just sounds much louder than it was weeks ago.

 

To me (not an expert at spun bearings), that sounds more like something in the upper engine area (collapsed lifter or rocker arm issue)...

Hopefully you'll get more input....

(All the spun bearing video's I've listened to sounded deeper and down lower...)

Bob.

 

Can you feel it in the clutch pedal?

 

Get a video where you rev it just a little. The tone should change a bit when reving and decelerating. Its hard to tell with a fast, constant idle like you have.

 

Just checked under the car, no visible dents in the oil pan. Although there was both oil and coolant dripping from multiple areas. Oil from somewhere near the upper part of the oil pan where I couldn't see and from above the oil filter and coolant dripping down from the darkness, couldn't really tell where it was coming from, nothing visible when looking down through the engine bay.

So yeah, I'm at a loss, no clue what the problem is but it sure as hell sounds terrible.

Just saw all the new responses:

Ohio - yeah it definitely sounds like it's coming from the upper part of the engine to me too.

fivestring - the clutch pedal feels no different, can't feel anything weird from it.

Charger - I'll go take a video and post it up here when I finish dinner.

Thanks for the help so far all.

P.S I replaced my ISC a few weeks ago, and have still not done the basic idle speed adjustment, haven't really had time to work on the car until today and now i've got this sound. Any possible connection? I guess doing it couldn't hurt

 

Mine spun last week.. sounds just like mine. On my car you could feel it coming from the rear cylinder head but once i pulled the pan it was obvious

 

Yeah I've been pretty depressed because of this all day :[ very lame. Going to pull the pan tomorrow morning I think, take a look at the horror.

Not sure what to do with the car if its really done for, how much would it cost to drop a new short block in it?

 

mmm rod knock. probably don't even need to pull the pan, i saw pretty little metal flakes in my oil pan when i just drained the oil. mine spun and the pan is pristine and undented... go figure

I've been pricing parts, new short-block from dynamic racing is 3499 before shipping or 3900 from mitsu, you will also need a new oil cooler, probably new oil lines, and flush the heads/turbos etc. make sure all the metal is out.

 

You can get rebuilt longblocks with NEW parts plus an overhaul gasket kit for around 2k on ebay, I bought one 6 years ago and it was a great transaction, engine has about 50k miles on it and still going strong.

 

Damn, that's very loud. I would not have run it that long, although if its gone already it doesn't matter. Easiest thing is to remove your oil filter and cut it open, and see if is any metal in there. Filter is much easier to tell than the oil itself. If there's metal in the filter just move on from there. Considering how loud it is I would already expect its too late and you'll need a rebuild. Would also be good to get underneath the car and use a stethoscope or long screwdriver with your ear to it to confirm if its really bottom end.

 

Also, new TT shortblock from Cherry Hill is 3270, and there are a bunch of sponsors here who do rebuilds as well. As long as you flush your oil cooler properly, you shouldn't need to replace it.

 

Remove your front spark plug cover. Start the engine let it idle. Remove each of the 3 plug wire caps one at a time listening to the engine. Remove the rear three plug wires at the coils. Don't get shocked and don't be startled when the spark to jumps out of the plug wire tower. If the sound lessens when any one of the cylinders has no spark, you have found your spun bearing. Once the bearing has failed, each time the spark plug detonates the combustion causes the rod to strike the crank journal with more force giving a louder tap. With no combustion the connecting rod bearing just rotates with the failed bearing. It is a noticeable difference in sound.

Also, the spun bearings can sound like top end motor issues because of the hollow space under the plenum.

This is how I determined a spun bearing on my son's 3000GT VR4.

Good luck

 

He has a non turbo, guys

 

Yeah I didn't end up dropping the pan just drained the oil and, of course, felt some metal flakes. What else could cause this if the oil pan seems to be un-dented?

Thanks for all the tips on replacement blocks, still not sure what I'm going to do w/ the car at this point.

 

Forgot to mention: When I went out there this afternoon there was big wet spot on my driveway under the engine. Couldn't tell what it was, didn't smell like coolant, felt kind of like oil but looked like it was clear on my fingertips.

 

before i pulled my pan i stuck a small magnet right at the drain hole and instantly notice the bearings gold flakes..PMP 1200 short block is the way im going to go

 

I'm pretty sure I read on here that the bearing material is not magnetic.....

 

Yeah bearing material is not magnetic. You need to cut open an oil filter and check it out.


Coop

 

really? that's weird cause when i pulled the pan and found all my bearing material it picked up some material but not all

 

Probably going to end up getting a PMP shortblock. Anyone have experience with them?

Going to have my mechanic look at it wednesday too, see what he thinks caused it in the first place.

 

I have there 1200 shortblock Still going strong a year later with DR650's at up to 18 psi.

EDIT; should read the whole thread first lol

 

PMP is in my back yard. They do great work. Haven't seen their shortblocks yet, but i wouldn't be worried.

BTW just ask him about his orange rims

 

yeah the stuff i priced is stealership prices, sadly might be the way im going... i think i need a warranty after how many threads ive seen on blocks taking dumps after rebuilds/replacement

 

Now if I end up getting a new short-block what else would need to be replaced? I'm sure it will help once I know exactly why it happened.

 

Well I have some good news! Turns out it was the timing belt, it was crazy loose and whacking all over the place. So time for an early 60k basically. My water pump is also kaput (explains my coolant issues). Much better than a spun bearing

 

Are you sure?