Have you had the timing belt cover off yet? Sounds like it could be a loose belt due to bad tensioner.

 

Pull each plug wire from the coil up front, one at a time and see if you can make the noise change or go away.

Unless, of course, you have a data logger with cylinder deactivation.

Is the clutch in good order?

 

fix3000 i had took a look at the belt when i was doing the lifters and it seemd to be pretty tight

and westcott i will go check that now also i think the clutch is still in good shape

im going to take another video of the motor running since the sound did change just a bit since i put in new lifters

 

also when it broke if im not mistaken i may have ran a little over the redline and i was WOT and then after is when the sound started and gradually got louder. what about the throught that the caps holding the cam down are bad or the cam is damaged under the cap?

 

bad sounds after new lifter install - YouTube

 

Keep in mind for every cam rev crank turns twice.By frequency of the nose you can tell if it is coming from valve train or bottom end.In last video noise frequency is consistent with t-belt rotation.Take front covers off and start the car with t-belt exposed,make sure crank pulley is on, so crank belt sprocket does not slide off.You should be able to see what causing that noise.

P.S. Did your original noise go away after lifter replacement?

 

I counted about 37 clicks every 10 seconds, so this comes to 222 clicks per minute. In the second video you posted, were you somewhere around 1200 RPM? If so, it doesn't bode well for one of your rods.

I would also prepare for the possibility that there might be some oil starvation happening here since it got worse after you put those larger bore lifters in there and hitting redline at WOT. Basically, the oil you gain in the top of the engine to make that ticking go away is robbed from the bottom. The openings on those 99 lifters are huge in comparison to the ones you took out - check the 3SX website for side-by-side comparison.

Unless of course it's a loose timing belt

 

I would also prepare for the possibility that there might be some oil starvation happening here since it got worse after you put those larger bore lifters in there and hitting redline at WOT. Basically, the oil you gain in the top of the engine to make that ticking go away is robbed from the bottom. The openings on those 99 lifters are huge in comparison to the ones you took out - check the 3SX website for side-by-side comparison.

I'm sorry but you a wrong. Do a little research before you tell people that their 99 lifters caused oil starvation. Otherwise wouldn't there be a whole heap of 99's out there with engine problems.

 

Actually i forgot to mention that when i pulled out the old lifters its turns out i already had the 3rd gen lifters installed by the previous owner

 

Interesting, but that still doesn't change much in regard to the sound you're having now though. Were you around 1200 RPM in that second video?

 

At the moment my car idols at 1200 sometimes a bit more my iac is on it way out but i brought it up to about 2500 to 3000 in the video

 

Ok, then I'd double check your belt and if it's not loose, then focus on the bottom end of your engine. And I wouldn't run it again until you figure out for sure what it is. That sound is, at best, potentially catastrophic.

If it's not the t-belt, then this is why I think one of your rod bearings has let go:
You're idling at 1200 RPM, which means that each piston is making 200 complete down/up cycles per minute (1200rpm / 6 pistons = 200 rpm/piston). Your crankshaft is going to hit the inner race of your rod bearings each time the piston changes directions, which will be twice per piston cycle (once on the connecting rod side going up, once on the rod cap side coming down). Therefore, if one of your rod bearings is shot, you'd expect to hear a total of about 200 pairs of clicks per minute.

In your second video, I heard about 37 pairs of clicks over a 10 second period. There are 60 seconds in a minute, or six 10-second periods, so we multiply 37 * 6 and get 222 pairs of clicks per minute. Scarily close to the 200 we'd expect above. I'd wager you're idling a little closer to 1300 RPM based on the 10 second period I listened to.

All of this to say, it seems and sounds like you have bottom end problems, most likely with a rod bearing... that is, if it's not the belt.

The timing belt is easy to check, but the bearings are not. My suggestion would be to order an oil analysis kit from Blackstone Labs and send a sample of your oil in. If there's bearing failure, the proof will be in your oil and they will find it. And you won't have to drop you oil pan just to find out. In the meantime, don't start or drive that car.

Good luck.

 

If it's not the t-belt, then this is why I think one of your rod bearings has let go:
You're idling at 1200 RPM, which means that each piston is making 200 complete down/up cycles per minute (1200rpm / 6 pistons = 200 rpm/piston).

That's incorrect. RPM is for the crankshaft and is irrespective of number of cylinders. That means each piston is going up and down 1200 times per minute. Since it's a 4-cycle engine (2 revs per cycle), that means it's 600 cycles per minute, meaning each minute at 1200 RPM each cylinder fires 600 times.

 

the other day i was pulling off the leads from the coil pack and the noise never went away and i can tell it is definitely coming from my head in the rear bank. could it be the cam its self is damaged under the cam cap?

 

remove valve cover... then look!

 

Could have had a rocker come off the lash adjuster.

 

pretty damn fast!

 

mine also has a noise but mine doesn't normally happen until it is warmed up. I have not viewed the video in this forum as I am in class. My 92 rt nt has really good oil pressure and new rod bearings so I am pretty sure that I either have a weak wristpin or something wrong with the head/cam. I have been daily driving the car for months now even made several trips from lima ohio to fort wayne Indiana and back. I don't drive it nicely most of the time but it hasn't blown up yet or gotten worse. any ideas???

 

My car has been making a noise also... i have already posted about my problem and i think i have a bad ECU but i don't think it explains the noise i hear. The car starts up fine and the idle goes to 1100 and then drops down to around 400 and misfires terrible and makes a loud clacking noise spratically. then after a few seconds the car dies. i know it isnt much to go on but any ideas?

And btw tylerbunkhart that still could be a rod bearing just cause they are new doesnt mean they arnt fitted correctly or spun... i know a kid that just put bearings on a civic and the car has a really slight rod knock because of the bearing that spun right after he installed it. he can still drive it fine but it doesnt seem smart to.

 

anyone? im kinda worried about it....

 

well i had some one check out my car and i got news back last night. they checked the top end and bottom end seems like the motor its self is fine the lifters are ok turns out its the rear turbo took a shit and my front turbo is not far behind with one foot already out the door....well that sucks but hey now its time for 2 new snails!