Funny i am finishing up the work on my car and i am having the same exact problem… Installed IPS Fuel Hat followed their instructions and the Fuel Pump is not coming on at all, even using the jumper plug in the engine bay. I seem to have lost the instructions they sent with the part but i am wondering is there is something wrong with the way they listed the wiring????

 

The wiring instructions I got from IPS match what Stealth 316 has so I dont think that's the issue. That's why I'm stumped.

http://www.stealth316.com/2-fuelpump.htm
Stock wiring assignments at the pump assembly electrical connector:
Black w/ red stripe: Ground
Black: Ground on pump assembly frame
Black w/ blue stripe: Power
Yellow: Fuel gauge
Yellow w/ blue stripe: Low fuel warning

 

I'm going to boucle check the Relay wiring… i know my pump works because if i hot-wired it straight from the battery it comes on. However if i try to hot-wire it using the little black plug in the engine bay it does nothing...

 

Not sure if this could be the problem. I noticed all the points have nylon fittings except 1. I assume this would be the ground.
I currently have my 12V power running to that and the ground going to the outer ring on the frame. Could this cause the power to be grounded immediately therefore not firing the pump?

 

Could you take a picture of the fuel hat, that shows your wiring?

 

These 2 pics were taken right after i finished installing the hat into place. The power wire from the battery and ground wire have since been connected as per the instructions but as stated the pump does not function.

 

couple more i just took…. (keep in mind i was working on this earlier so some of the connections are loose

 

The wire that you have unhooked in the last pic is the ground. Every other terminal is a pass through, so as long as the wires correspond on the inside of the tank, to the wires on the outside , you should have no problem. Does the fuel gauge work?. Do you have a fuel pump hard wire kit? Any other questions you have can email me at kep@ipsmotorsports.net

 

I double checked all the wiring and from what i can tell it all matches up... The wire i have unhooked is the "Harness ground" I had everything wired up just like OEM on the hat itself. To answer your question yes i also installed an IPS Hotwire kit.

 

On the relay when you turn on the ignition does terminal 87 get power?

 

I will test this when i get home from work in about an Hour or so. When you say Ignition on, do you mean just turn the Key to the ON position or actually cranking the engine?

 

My setup looks about identical to yours and its not firing up. I just tried switching the 12v power to a different post (top and bottom) with no luck.

I do not have a hard wire kit either (is that required to run a walbro?). As mentioned before, my stock fuel hat with denso worked without a problem (just a leak).

 

i tried this as well with no luck There has to be something we are missing here...

 

All you have to do is turn the key to the run position, then you should have battery voltage on terminal 87. We will go from there.

 

Measured for power at terminal 87 of the relay with the Key in the on position and i am getting battery voltage. Here is a little twist… After measuring for voltage i went ahead and cranked the car it didn't start as expected only difference is this time i smelled fuel in the engine bay area. I checked the FPR and no fuel pressure was showing on the gauge. I pulled my 3 front plugs and they smell of fuel and appear to be soaking wet… WTF?? Am i mistaken in assuming that during cranking the engine should build up fuel pressure? and if so would there not be any residual pressure that i could see on my fuel pressure gauge at the FPR after ceasing the cranking and making my way to the engine bay within 30 seconds? So i went from not getting any fuel at all to possibly fouling my plugs and all this while not seeing any fuel pressure. Also for some reason i still can't get the fuel pump to come on by using the little black plug in the engine bay, now I'm really lost...

 

Update on my problem. I just hooked up the black jumper to the battery (which I just found out about) and it builds pressure as my gauge reads ~40psi after connecting the jumper (was 0psi prior). When I turn the key however I get nothing (with jumper disconnected).
Any suggestions? (I read that it might be the MFI but as mentioned before my car ran prior to the new hat)

 

I'm still racking my brain over this issue... i am now pretty much 100% certain that all my wirring is correct and i am still not getting the pump to kick on during cranking or with the jumper plug in the engine bay. unfourtunatly i have been working late everyday this week so i cannot call IPS for help diagnosing this. It is especially frustrating because the rest of the work on the car is done and this is LITERALY the only thing keeping teh dam thing from running!!!

 

Checked all fuses?

Black harness ground to chassis not hanger?

 

Yup checked all fuses they are good...

There are 3 grounds on this thing... There is a harness ground which is red/black wire that is connected to one of the posts on the hat itself then there is a general ground (black wire) also connected to a post on the hat itself then i have the Relay ground from the hotwire kit which i have tried to connect to one of the posts and chassis and same result. When I run a separate wire straight from batt + to the power post on the fuel hat the pump comes on and builds pressure in the system which leads me to believe the grounds are ok otherwise it wouldn't work at all, correct?

Other than running a direct wire to the pump i can't get it to work with the ignition (cranking) or the little black plug up front...

 

Huh. What circuit does the under-engine dongle complete?

If it bypasses the factory relay, maybe that's the issue for some reason.

 

I don't see a hotwire set-up on there. Is that correct?
I also assume that the + terminal that you ran power to is the one with the red wire on it.
The red wire looks like it's spliced to the Black with blue stripe wire on the connector. Am I correct on that too?

The black connector under the hood is a direct connection to the black with blue stripe wire on the fuel pump connector . If connecting power to the black test connector doesn't work, but but going directly to the terminal on the hat with the red wire on it does than you have a bad connection somewhere. I'd guess it's on that red wire, either there's a bad crimp on the ring terminal or something's loose under the tape where it splices to the black/blue wire.

The other possibility, and I only mention it because I can't see it on the pictures, is if there's nylon washers on the terminals. Make sure the ring terminal makes solid connection with the nut with no insulation between them.

 

I assume this one is directed to me and not DIP (my pictures are the one on page 2). When I hook up the black connector under the hood the pump runs, but if I start the car the tac goes wonky and the car dies. I didn't think its the ECU since its a new chrome ECU which worked upon arrival a few weeks ago.

 

Just tried a new MFI and still nothing. I have no way of knowing if its the new chrome ECU or something with the hat wiring.

Anyone?

 

what relay did you end up getting? apparently some of these went out with 24v relays for unknown reasons.

 

Does your fuel gauge work?

 

Mine? I remember that it wasn't reading empty when I first tried starting the car. I don't know if that's accurate or not as I have yet to get the car running. I also know that I'm getting B+ at the body side of the pump connector.

 

My issue was solved as well. Apparently the wiring information on the IPS pam and stealth316 did not match what my car had. So the power was not going to the pump but to some other component.

So when I jumped the pump the ECU would not allow the car to start because of this.