Just make sure and spray it with some pb blaster and it will eventually come free. I had to tap it with a hammer while pulling on the control arm and it took a little bit but it does slide out just as you imagine.

 

Ok, great. Thanks!

 

Thought I'd follow up - I removed that forward part of the trailing arm to change the bushings. It ended up being much easier and quicker than having to take everything apart, and made changing the bushings a breeze. Probably took 5-10 minutes of hammering and a punch per side to get them out, but once out, easy. Going back in was just a few taps of the hammer.

The rubber on the inside of the trailing arm looked new on both sides. No visible wear whatsoever. I guess it leads an easy life.

If you have to (or decide to) change those trailing arm bushings, I'd recommend doing it this way.

 

Thanks for this post. I've been avoiding changing out the rear trailing arm for almost 8 years because of a seized bolt there. Even have a replacement sitting around. Now I know I can just change out the end (which I suspected, but never got around to checking). Now to hack that seized bolt outta there.

 

Good to know. Thank you.


Coop

 

Can someone explain to me how to get the bolt out of this. #17/18 It seems to be the one you are talking about in the thread. I have pics attached.

It is to long when trying to remove and hits under the car as you can see in the pic.

So am I missing something here?

Only thing I can come up with is remove entire arm or cut the bolt and install new one upside down.

Also where do you get the bushings from for the trailing arm #15.

I need to replace the bolts in the bushing on the arm as tireplus wont do my lifetime alignment. Claims my bolts for alignment are bad(worn).


Thanks for any help.

 

You can get the bushing from a few different vendors and cherry hill. As far as removing that bolt you might have to remove the whole trailing arm.

The one they are telling you to replace, are you talking about the concentric bolt that connects the trailing arm to the subframe? I assume you are leaving that concentric bolt in place so you can pull on the trailing arm and remove that rubber joint. Just remove the concentric bolt and drop the arm, pull out that bolt that goes through the rubber joint and then reconnect the arm at the subframe and pull the trailing arm to disconnect the rubber joint/bushing from the trailing arm.

 

Easier said then done. I just want to replace the concentric bolt. One that goes horizontal for alignment. It's stuck in bushing not coming out.

 

I had to cut mine out because it was too rusted like yours.

 

To get that vertically oriented bolt out you need to drop the trailing arm from the forward bushing (alignment bolt). Then it will drop and you'll have plenty of room. If that alignment bolt is what's stuck, then trying to get it out via that disconnect I don't see helping you anyway - you need to get the bolt out.

Try spraying it with a ton of PB blaster. If that doesn't work, you can always take an angle grinder to it bit by bit.

 

Yeah if I take an angle grinder to it that means I have to drop entire arm which I want to avoid.

Problem is that alignment bolt is not turning but a quarter turn. Is that normal or is that due to the tierod Still being connected? I've heated that bolt up and still gets nothing. if it would turn 360 this would be a non issue. I just need car aligned and my rear left wheel mm is pointed way in right now on the front.

 

I'm thoroughly confused. You said the bushing is fused to the concentric bolt right? And you need to replace that because the shop told you it was bad?

 

I have included a video of whats going on but can explain here to. Video sums it up.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/yxc2MSMbhqs" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Prior to going to track my axle was fine. I could do 2 step launches all day. Well went to track about 4weeks ago, on last run before track closed i broke rear left axle.

Now prior to all this my rear left wheel was pointed in as noted in the video. Tires plus said they could no longer do an alignment on my car because the bolt was seized. Now i had one done like 3 or 4 months prior by them lifetime and it was fine. But I started noticing the wheel turning in and went back and was told the bolt was seized and that i would have to replace bolt or entire trailing arm.

So after busting axle at track which i believe was just do to such a hard launch and no traction and when it finally caught traction it broke. It was first time this year i launched over 5k rpm.

So i get home replace axle and differential bushings with solid ones and drive 2 miles. 2nd axle breaks driver side rear on differential side. same as first one did at track. So now im thinking the wheel being turned it is causing it but it was like this forever before i broke it at track.

So now i want to replace this axle again but i need to get car aligned and of course they are saying the bolt does not turn so they cant do it.

Im lost here now as to does the bolt suppose to turn full 360? i got the bolt to move just not come out or full 360 degrees turn. Is my wheel being turned inward causing axle to break or is something going on in differential. I cant keep going through axles and at same time i paid for lifetime alignment and 2nd time they say they cant honor it because i have a bad part. Seems like they always find a reason to not honor those alignments.

Video added any help much appreciated.

Car was driving fine. I

 

That is a bunch of toe. My guess is that much toe is forcing the wheel inward and putting a shit ton of stress on the axle. Don't take my word for it but that's my guess. And as far as that concentric bolt goes, the bushing sleeve is fused to the bolt. You're gunna have to cut it out. Sawzall and an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel is what I used. Granted my subframe was dropped when I did that so idk how tough that will be with the subframe mounted on the car.

 

Did you get that bolt out yet?

 

nope still stuck in . im just pulling brakes and rotor off. worked today so tomorrow im gonna try to finish up and at least get entire arm off tomorrow. ordered tow new bushings and two new rear tierod ends. gonna just replace that stuff. hopefully i can get this thing off and new one in no problem.

Is press really needed or can old bushing just be cut out with sawzall like rear differential bushings and tapped back in?

 

You will need a press for getting the new bushing in, but I got the old one out with my sawzall.

 

Ok so i got arm off but the bolt itself has the sleeve from the bushing stuck on it. Whats best way to cut this. My diamond sawzall blad and air grinder seems like its doing nothing.

Pics show what im up against