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Discussion starter · #62 ·
RIGHT!

So, I finally got the ONE shock that was left back from DMS after they replaced the shock body for one from an EVO 7-9, which DOES actually in fact fit our cars (yay)

differences between the new knuckle and the previous one:

1, it seems one of the bolts, not sure which on the evo is around 1mm larger in diameter, which meant that one of the sets of washers fits fairly loosly (not enough for me to be worried about)
2, the evo 7-9 mount allows the knuckle to be tilted far further out, as the bottom is adjustable outwards as well (so the odd washers on BOTH top and bottom)
3, it's got a wide enough grip to ACTUALLY fit :D

showing the washers on top and bottom, top you can't see behind the stock bolt washer:

Old:
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New:
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I used the TEIN top mount in absence of my others....
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it fitted perfectly, notice in this pic that the coil is starting to get quite close to the car body, which is exactly how I want it! no wasted space!!

I had to adjust both washers to most positive camber to allow the tyre to not hit the spring (top mount is adjusted to maximum negative camber to cancel it out) after fitment the total spring clearance was only around 3-4mm not a lot but hopefully enough!!
 
Discussion starter · #63 ·
Looking at the shock travel...DMS vs Tein :p

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Exacccctly what I've been after...stock like travel! I had to actually undo the sway bar to even get the shock attached :p when doing up the DMS spring I get it fairly tight without pulling in the spring.

interesting when I dropped the car the DMS dropped all the way down to what I can only assume is it's bump stop :(

Not meant to be that low unless I hit a bump! second photo is Tein.

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Sooo time to get in contact with the guy and discuss springs.

I will attempt to tighten up the locking rings, but this spring is obviously WAY too loooooose :D
 
WOW... Completely just shitted on Tien didn't the :lol2: I'm glad that your able to start progress on your car again. How does the ride feel? and if its that low, do you have to take speed bumps completely side ways?
 
Discussion starter · #65 ·
I've not taken it out of the garage yet Ash :p going to see if I can wind the spring up a fair bit tighter and see if that helps :| I suspect not and somehow I think the springs are considerably less and I'll have to try harder springs (when I get home apparently there are some laser etch'd figures that tell me how many lbs it's at) stock is meant to be 218 lbs/in and I asked for this spec...dunno!

the other side of this is that IF that is the shock fully compressed, then I need a shorter shock as there is still another 2" of compression space under the wheel well.
 
Discussion starter · #68 ·
Seems good! car is even riding at the height I want now :) just gotta save for another one and look at top mounts...not sure if theirs will allow me to pull the strut in enough to correct the alignment.

also going to workout exactly how far the shock is compressing and see how much clearance I have etc (most importantly, at stock ride height how much droop and compression do I have before the bump stop)
 
Discussion starter · #71 ·
Orrite!!!

Really good news guys, got this installed on friday, went for a bit of a drive saturday night...SOOOOO much better, hit my usual bumps and the car just glides over..no whole chassis lifting off to the moon.

Still to do:
1, still need to make some custom top mount plates, been looking for some after market ones but they are so damn expensive. could butcher the current Tein ones (currently using them on the top of the DMS's) but instead it really just makes sense to buy some aluminium plate from a local shop and chop the required holes, that way I should end up with a far stronger plate and get exactly the
adjustment needed.
2,Since the current adjustments are totally maxed out I'm going to take her to a shop and see exactly what the camber is currently set to.
3, the bound and rebound settings have not been adjusted yet, so when I get around to next attacking them that will need adjusting.
4, the bolts that attach the shock body to the knuckle are around 1 inch too short, so high tensile versions of those will need to be sourced.
5, the steering wheel is not alligned with the center point of the rack (long story, had the rack out, and when it went back in it seems the steering wheel was off, if the alignement is adjusted at the tie end rods it makes the car scrub at full right lock.

I actually measured as much travel as I could get out of it, and I got to somewhere around the 140mm mark before I hit the hydraulic bump stop
 
Discussion starter · #73 ·
Took it to the shop, the camber was very odd! one was +.5 the other was -.5...weird!

I chopped the shit out of the camber washers and pretty much got myself unlimited adjustment! just need to get the camber plates made up and then hopefully I can get -1 degree on the fronts (what I'm after) AND keep as much tyre from contacting the shock :)
I also bought some 12mm high tensile bolts from bunnings...funny enough it seems that our cars use 11mm bolts (WTF) and they were too long anyway. back to bunnings tonight if I get time. going to get some beefy washer's too.
still have not felt any incentive to fix up the steering rack, need to find a picture of what's under the wheel to see what I'm dealing with :|
for the camber plates I still cannot find a source for the bearings themselves...keep trying though.
can get the Tein top mounts for around $150...can always just butcher these.
 
I chopped the shit out of the camber washers and pretty much got myself unlimited adjustment!
I also bought some 12mm high tensile bolts from bunnings.
Do you have pics of what you chopped up? I'm having trouble picturing it.. also on getting new bolts, I think I remembered whatever I had seemed a little weak, could you link me what you are buying to replace them?
 
Discussion starter · #76 ·
Ok!

lets get the boring stuff out of the way first. the shocks come with a bracket system that's going to need a little adjustment to work with the stock leads, mostly due to the stock lines having their own brackets, since I could not be arsed pulling these apart (and rebleeding the brakes) I have elected to just cable tie the whole effing lot to the strut :D

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Onto the bolts.
High tension bolts have a great variety of specs, the ones I'm after are M12 (12mm metric) and the thread I decided I like is 1.25, this is roughly stock, it's a fairly fine thread, so I assume Mitsu used 8.8 grade for their suspension bolts, unfortunatly my first visit to the local Repco car part shop must have been in the dark wearing sunnies as I walked away with a set of completely useless bolts (7/16(or something) Grade 5/and around an inch too long )
ANYHOW I now have the bolts that I think will be spot on, Champion branded BM154, they are M12 1.25x75 (not 100+ the other ones were) and Tensile grade 8.8 :)
back to fitting them, the DMS shocks have a lower mounting point that adjustable as per usual, but to stop the suspension from moving around under unusual circumstances they have designed it to take offset cut washers to hold the knuckles at exactly the angle you set them.
unforutunatly this did not offer me QUITE enough adjustment, so I cut them :p instead of looking like an O, we now have them looking like a C to offer maximum adjustment the plan is to use the longer bolts with high tensile washers+split washers and go over the whole thing and really clamp the bitch down
See below:

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the useless bolts:

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Discussion starter · #77 · (Edited)
Soo a few other things, still using the Tein top mounts, and since I have someone buying the whole Tein kit off me I need to get replacements, which honestly is fine, since i want to make my own anyway. unfortunatly what I cannot make is the Spherical bearing assembily (the Zinc bit you see in the pictures) so that's what I've got the fealers out for at the moment...I can see myself buying a whole new set of coil over top mounts annoyingly.

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and this is the adjustment knob, there are actually two separate adjustment bolts under there, must do that eventually, of interest the cover actually makes contact with the CV boot at full extension...I guess long term we'll see how much of a pain in the arse this is.

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better shot of adjustment:
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Just some last observations, I'm not sure what the shocks are actually set to by way of hardness, but at low speed it's a little bumpy (totally NOTHING compared to the teins) but still not as good as stock but at high speed it's AMAZING, go along at 100+KMH over some bumpy road and while you feel the roughness of the road tapping through the steering wheel, the car is just so planted and smooth it's incredible with the teins and stock you had this feeling after going over some bumps that the car/wheels were still correcting themselves... no more!
 
Everything looks and sounds amazing thus far! What have you considered doing about the CV boot situation if the adjustment knob actually causes a problem there?
 
Onto the bolts.
High tension bolts have a great variety of specs, the ones I'm after are M12 (12mm metric) and the thread I decided I like is 1.25, this is roughly stock, it's a fairly fine thread, so I assume Mitsu used 8.8 grade for their suspension bolts, unfortunatly my first visit to the local Repco car part shop must have been in the dark wearing sunnies as I walked away with a set of completely useless bolts (7/16(or something) Grade 5/and around an inch too long )
ANYHOW I now have the bolts that I think will be spot on, Champion branded BM154, they are M12 1.25x75 (not 100+ the other ones were) and Tensile grade 8.8 :)
back to fitting them, the DMS shocks have a lower mounting point that adjustable as per usual, but to stop the suspension from moving around under unusual circumstances they have designed it to take offset cut washers to hold the knuckles at exactly the angle you set them.
unforutunatly this did not offer me QUITE enough adjustment, so I cut them :p instead of looking like an O, we now have them looking like a C to offer maximum adjustment the plan is to use the longer bolts with high tensile washers+split washers and go over the whole thing and really clamp the bitch down
See below:
Interesting. Thanks for clarifying. Good to keep in the files for future potential issues.
 
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