Also if anyone needs this info A 94 mitsubishi montero VSS hat works on the 3000gt. Slight install differences. Mostly you have to completely seat the sensor before install the plug and removing the plug before removal. Heard through tuning companies such as remy's ride and Racerx aka morgan that Chrome ecu's have a big problem seein signal from the 3000gt VSS hat. Welp Chrome seems to like the montero one and has no problem tracking signal from it. Have datalogs to prove it. Better yet the 3000gt vss hat costs $330 for a denso one and the montero one costs 12$ for an oem mitsu one. So saving you about 315$ and get better results than oem.

 

Wish I was still out there to check out this build.

Just curious. Who did your machine work?

 

3 places auto-spec machining did the block boring, 5star engine refurbishing did the bottom end rebalance, Phoenix cylinder heads did the head rebuild. Mostly brass valve guides,5-angle valve job,bc springs and retainers. Wouldve done all that myself but they insisted on doing the valve train.

 

Do you plan on getting it on a dyno?

I’m curious how much na power one of these makes with a proper build.

 

Of course. Problem im having atm is only 1 place is even willing to put it on a dyno. And even they don't want to unless its on a standalone. Which is what prompted me to go for a haltech. They suggested a link g4x for an evo8 but because that ecu is made for a 4-cylinder it can only do batch ignition and it doesnt replace the harness ive had to splice into to get some of the GM parts to work. So since both are about the same price im moving for the haltech. Since i get the option for sequential injection/ignition and can make a fresh harness for the engine. That hasn't been spliced into to make things work. yea itll be a job to make the harness and get it to work, but it'll be worth at the end. do a wire-tuck, Bulk head connector, Lc-7 dash, dual channel wideband, Remove the busted up oem dash and get the aluminum one in there and flocked. Then build my relay and fuse board and begin Re-wiring the body harness. Thats the plan anyway.

 

Have you looked at fueltech? It’s the most features for the lest cash. And, it solves the dash problem itself.

I’m out there periodically. I’ll definitely make it a point to come check out your build next time.

 

from what i've been reading about fuel-tech is that it doesnt support the GTO trigger wheel off the crank. For timing while the haltech does. Like the AEM infinity doesnt support our timing system either. It wouldnt be that big of a problem if they had a trigger wheel to fit our cars,but as far as i know 1 doesnt exist. So for now im sticking with the haltech. If im wrong by all means let me know.

 

By no means a professional harness builder..litterally never did this before. But never the less local tuners straight refuse to put this on a dyno and tune it unless its on a standalone ecu. So yep putting a standalone ecu in it. Installing a haltech elite 750 with a premium harness. And doing a full re-wire of the car. Cars getting a elite 750, CoP conversion, Flex fuel,dual channel can-bus wideband, Ic-7 dash.

 

So definintly not a professional wiring guy. But since all of the local tuners refuse to put my car on a dyno without it being on standalone, that's what im gonna do. installing a haltech elite 750 with a premium flying lead harness since no jumper is availble. Doing the best i can at it and its definintly not the worst wiring job. Up for install is a haltech 750, denso 673-3016 Cop conversion, Ac delco Flex fuel sensor, dual channel can-bus wideband, ic-7 mfd, Full body harness re-wire, Battery relocation to the hatch. Engine harness is just getting a wrap and running hoses for the flex fuel sensor, and routing switches and wires to the fuse and relay panel. Ecu is running the fuel pump relay and fan relay with a manual backup on the switch panel in the dash. Once the Ecu harness is done then the oem body is getting pulled. also got 30amp reverse polarity switches for the power windows. A lot of work to be done, but it's getting there.

 

Still pounding out the wiring. Almost complete, rear half just needs loom and eyelet terminals. Then wire in the switches,wiper motor and power window switches. . Installed the Flex fuel sensor as well. Still need the ic-7 and dual channel wideband controller. Those are plug and play so focusing on wiring in everything. Once im done with the ic-7 and dual channel wideband its time for ums tuning. And this time they cant reject it because "not on a standalone". Also I wanna trim back the ground wires and clean up that Grounding bus bar.

 

Got the vast majority of the wiring done..Will eventually get the windshield wiper motor wired in, but everything else is good to go. Car fires up and runs like it should. Working on the ic-7 mfd and installed the haltech WB2 wideband controller. Going to intergrate 1 wideband sensor into each bank of cylinders at the tuning shop.

Also got my haltech wb2 installed and can confirm it all works

 

finally got the car tuned. The tuners had a blast ripping on it lol

 

I wonder how it will stack up against GTWizard/Warzone old 3.0L setup and Eric's 3.7L build as far as powerband wise.

 

Pics of the old Spec stage2 clutch after the tuning session. Yep She's gone like yesterdays lunch. Kevlar side still had some life left but the Pressure plate side is wiped clean. Thing was rate for 400ft lbs and smoked it during a street tuning session at 8800rpms in 3rd gear.

New spec stage2+ full kevlar clutch going in rated for 450ft lbs Should hold up better.

Never thought my SL would just obliterate that clutch, But here we are.