an electronic boost controller makes a huge difference. get an electronic one cuz they 'learn' your boost curve and maximize it. installation is pretty easy, solder a few wires and hook up vacuum lines. that's about it.

 

They all do the same thing, only electronic ones are a lot nicer. Electronic=expensive though. I got a manual BC for $35, very simple installation, very happy with its performance, had it a couple months and no boost spikes! Got it from a guy named Darrin Dawes, somewhere on the internet (forgot where). And yes they make a big difference on the stock VR4, but it works better if you have a K@N or the Hks dual somethingeruther with exhaust mods. You could get a boost gauge and a BC for like $85 and crank the boost up to 14.5. You'll notice the difference in your stomach! I suggest doing it, very worth it, even for a cheap ass like me!

Ok, I don't know if the electronic and the manual do the same thing, I was just guessing. Will the electronic one yield more performance, or is it just for luxury and looks?

 

Bleeder valves cost about 3 bucks.
Manual boost controllers cost anywhere from 25-150 bucks.
Electronic boost controllers cost anywhere from 200-500 bucks.
The bleeder valve and manual boost controllers are easiest to install. (Takes less than 10 minutes) Electronic boost controllers are not difficult to hook up. (1-2 hours). The electronic boost controller is the safest way to go due to the fact that they have protection devices built in to prevent overboost. Any three of the BC options can yield BIG increases in power. Keep in mind that you will need to install an aftermarket boost gauge to accurately measure the boost as the stock one is very innacurate past 7lbs.
If you're running a stock fuel system, keep the boost below 15psi. (set it at 14 to 14.5psi and forget about it).

 

Just to add

Can you get a boost gague that will fit in the factory location, and look good?

 

I wouldn't try messing with the dash. It would take a long time to do, and plus someone told me that its dangerous because of the airbag. I don't know, I'd look into it some more. For now I just have mine on top of my steering wheel and that works pretty good. I'm gonna get a dual A-pillar mount and put my boost gauge and a A/F gauge in it. The a pillar pods are really cool lookin, and fairly cheap too. Go to carparts.com if interested, use a coupon.

 

BIG difference

Just to set the record straight...there is a huge FUNCTIONAL difference between a manual boost controller and an electronic boost controller - not just pretty lights, etc.
At least with my vr4 the car doesn't seem to hold boost in the high rpm's, although the turbo's have the ability to continue boosting that high - the EBC will get rid of those spikes and get you boosting at the right level on a consistent basis.

 

I was completely unaware of that!!! Maybe I should have went with the EBC.....naw, I'm a cheapass, $35 or $350-$500, maybe when I have the money.

 

Installation

Does anyone know if supra specific instructions would be sufficient enough to install a Blitz DSBC on a 94 VR4? SupraStore has it on sale for $409.95 but only with Supra instructions of course. If not would anyone be able to send me instructions for a VR4?

 

Are you completely sold on the Blitz DSBC or would you be willing to purchase an Apexi AVC-R?
I can tell you where to buy an AVC-R shipped for $399, I just bought mine a month ago from this place. I can't remember the name of the place right now, I remember it was from florida. If you are interested I will have to go home and dig up the receipt - so let me know if you are interested.

 

I heard that the AVC-R overboosts too much, and I thought it cost somewhere in the upper $500's... Thats the main reason I was looking at the Blitz DSBC. I'll look into it though if you remember the place you got it.

 

Apexi sells it for $560 or something - that is why $399 shipped is an incredible deal.

I don't think the AVC-R overboosts too much - it is up to the person tuning it. You have manual control and it self learns- if it is overboosting at a certain RPM, simply reduce the boost duty cycle manually, or get out of the throttle until it learns that it is overboosting at that rpm......

 

My MBC doesn't overboost

My manual (ball and spring ,not bleeder) boost valve does not overboost more than about 1/2 psi. The boost rockets to 14 1/2 PSI , drops to 14psi and stays there until the turbos run out of steam at higher RPMS. I installed and set the boost level on my boost valve (gauge already installed) on my 1/2 hour lunch break and I still had time to eat. Its been a month and I have not touched it since.
The Boost climbs so fast and stops at set point so quickly that I can't imagine a electronic controller providing any performance improvement.

The ball and spring boost controller does not let the wastgates open at all until the desired boost is reached. Nobody has explained to me how an electronic boost controller can learn to make more boost than this.

There are reasons to get a electronic boost controller I am not convinced yet that performance is one of them. Big advantage to electronic boost controllers is boost warnings, My boost is so consisten that I don't worry about it, but I went autocrossing and I could never check the gauge while racing. A warnign buzzer would have been nice. Another nice feature is ability to set boost from inside the cab. Some boost controllers can also monitor other engine parameters.

Note : A bleeder type boost valve just bleeds off the signal sent to open the wastgates, This is not a consisten wasy to hold boost and it lets the wastgates open partially before full boost is reached, si ti takes longer to reach full boost! I can not see any reason to get a bleeder valve when a ball and spring valve is available for $45.

I really would like feedback from someone who has run booth ball and spring and Electronic controllers to see how they compare.

 

boost controller

http://www.team3s.com/FAQdsbcmanual.htm

 

Theo VR4 - go to Titanmotorsports.com to buy your Apexi AVC-R for $399 shipped.