Maybe 2 at the same time? Pricey. I have to replace my Motobatt which has been completely discharged maybe 50+ times over 5 years Probably going to buy the same thing. My other SLA's (Odyssey/Genesis) were never revivable.

 

No way I would buy 2 of them. And yes, I have had to recharge my SLA battery multiple times, just gave in a bought a float charger.

 

I have a boost controller in one car that has a fairly high current memory function (for who really cares what) that contributed to a lot of my battery failures. Once the battery was hurt then it kept hurting it more and I wouldn't even know until months later since I had the car sitting forever. I also seem to do a terrible job of clicking off the breaker switch that I have on the battery for when it needs to sit.

I am finally putting a battery cutoff in that car but I am using a continuous use solenoid. This solenoid really drains power so I am having to also add a relay with a momentary switch that will prevent the solenoid from firing up the rest of the electronics until I hit the momentary switch. Hit the momentary switch to power up the solenoid with the key on and then the solenoid will power its own ground signal relay which will be on switched power. Turn off key and solenoid turns off.

Nobody mentioned the downfall of solenoid battery cutoffs in any thread I read. With this setup I won't worry about battery drains and therefore I don't feel like its a bad investment to get a fresh battery.


That 300 dollar battery looks perfect. It also looks similar to batteries that cost a lot less. Needs to look Ferrari-ish

 

This little battery is badass:
Shorai Lithium LFX Lithium Iron Battery 36AH 12V LFX36L3 BS12 | eBay

550 CCAs
4.96lbs
12v36Ah

Little pricy tho.

 

Have you thought about putting the battery down on the frame rail? I saw a few people do that.. then you have the area above and beside it to put stuff.

 

The Motobatt MBTX20U I have to replace went from $69 to $113-$128 dollars over the past 4 years.

Now the 225 dollar battery that has more claimed cranking power, more capacity, and weighs 10 pounds less (easier to mount)...

I am more interested...

 

I don't think the price worth the weight saving unless you cut weight from every where and your battery is the only thing left. lol

 

why not reroute it to the trunk? it's a win/win for these cars. Better weightdistribution and inside the car for better temps.

And use a AGM battery so that you don't need to build an airsealed ventilated enlosure.

 

If you put it in the trunk and you want to race, a lot of the time you need to have it in a vented box with a kill switch that will shut off the car (not just disconnect the wire going to the battery). This leads to a lot of extra work and weight in wires/switches. I really wanted to put a battery in the trunk but it just wasn't worth it for a street car.

 

AGM battery doesn't need vent since it doesn't produce any gas. Porches uses them and other high end sport cars.

A kill swich is 5 bux on ebay and no big deal to install?

 

Don't know the rules for your specifc track but generally you have to have a vented box if the battery is relocated, period.

Also, how much resistance do you think that $5 switch adds to an already long cable? By the time you add all this stuff up, you are adding weight to the car (heavy gauge cables, switches, boxes), making it harder to start, extra money, etc. Not worth it in my eyes.

Lastly, how exactly are you going to wire that up so that it shuts off the car if it is already running?

 

Why would you bother installing a 3 pound battery in the rear and add that complication?

These batteries make a lot of sense for me, especially since I will have zero phantom draw when my car is turned off.

Easy to mount in the fender. No heat. No weight. More cranking power then my 14+ pound SLA that costs 115-130.

That and I found them for 212-213 shipped. Interested.

 

Wired up a momentary switch to my main kill switch so now when I turn off the key, all systems are cut by my 100amp solenoid. If I turn the key back on, nothing will happen till I temporarily ground the solenoid with my momentary switch and then key switched power will turn on a grounding relay that will let the kill switch circuit take over

Very happy. Now I can confidently order that 16 cell ballistic battery and know I will have zero drain on it except the alternator and starter, which should pull nothing.

I just put some lighter weight brand of dynamat material (bquiet) and some interior parts so now I can get that weight back out of the car but enjoy the reduced drone.

 

Very nice! How did you secure the battery to the fender?

RK

 

Its going inside the fender next to the frame rail just like my old 13-14 pound Motobatt.

Per NHRA it technically needs to be attached to the frame by a certain diameter fastener. I still have some all thread left over that is the correct diameter. I am thinking I need to weld on some nuts or something to really do this properly as I don't want to drill a hole through the frame rail.

Waiting on the battery. Bought it 2 nights ago.

 

So did anyone get one yet? I'm interested!

 

make sure to post some pics of the installation!

 

I was thinking about getting one of these to replace my current lightweight SLA battery.
06 13 Suzuki VZR1800 M109R Ballistic Performance EVO2 16 Cell Motorcycle Battery | eBay

I wouldnt even bother with Lithium Iron aka "LiFePO4" in a cold climate. Lithium iron doped with yttrium aka "LiFeYPo" have much better operating temps of down to -45C. I planned to get one of these but couldnt wait for stock to arrive and had to go odyssey AGM.

Winston Battery Limited

 

That battery weighs 24 pounds lol. No thanks. These batteries will start in very cold temperatures. All you have to do is create a draw and they heat themselves up, then start. That is why they are "rated" with a high CCA. In cold weather these batteries get stronger instead of weaker after the first attempt.

Have you got the battery? I'm about to hit buy it now lol.

Yes, its freakishly light. I was sitting on the couch with it in my lap and then thought "this is not safe to have around my kids" but it seems like one of their toys. Have not installed it but I am wanting to use aluminum.

 

come on guys, lets get some results!

 

Evo2 Ballistic, first start

I already have my super kill switch setup that turns off all draw on the battery when you key off. I have to fumble around for the momentary switch that activates the relay that will ground my kill switch solenoid.

 

Thats badass, let us know how it runs!

RK

 

Little bit grumpy. I had the bracket (brazed together) looking pretty nice and I saw something I wanted to make look better and I ended up melting the thinner aluminum top brace when I wasn't looking at what my torch was actually heating up. Fun to have nit picking turn into ruining something. Welding helmet is out of commission so getting the nuts welded to the car was quite the failure that required grinding. That and I didn't have a good ground etc.

I covered the friction points of the battery with B-Quiet sound damper as it was already getting chewed up from when it was hitting on the welds during fitup.

I still need to work on covering up all the connection points on the power wires at the breaker switch and my master cutoff solenoid. I really don't like how picky they seem to be after years of doing whatever I wanted as long as I ran slower then 11.5 with a helmet (different track). I shouldn't need all this to run a naturally aspirated 13/14 second pass.

 

Very nice! Any updates on how car runs? Is this too little battery for too big of car? I want to get this exact battery but not sure if its enough for my car and all its goodies: meth injection, gauges, stereo, etc

 

About to buy this, hows this thing holding up???

 

This car just sits. Have not started it recently. Been cleaning up the wiring. Previously I was redoing the trigger angles. Ran the engine with the belt removed from the alternator (steadier timing light) and it was okay. Not sure how my cheater system compares to a car that has some constant draw on the battery. My battery stress dropped to zero with my new system even though the battery is ridiculously expensive compared to the car I purchased for $100.

I have not noticed battery voltage being in the 13's like literature says. I don't know if I get full voltage to Megasquirt or if the super long non adjustable pump prime on 2 walbros brings down the voltage temporarily. The idea that the battery will warm up and gain voltage in the cold is still very "cool" to me.

--------------------

Went outside and measured the battery with an ohmmeter and it reads 13.43 volts.

 

Nice, hey Ondontii, did you get the 16 cell HD or regular? Thinking I will get HD for size option. Would you recommend this battery so far?

Thanks,
RK

 

Battery purchased, will be ditching my 2 SLA batteries and fitting small 2qt methanol tank. Will post pics when finished!

Wish me luck that this battery works out

 

Hey, I got the regular 16 cell. I didn't need the HD (Harley Davidson) size or switched contacts. I did have to use a new longer power feed wire but it turned out fine.

I just recently punished the battery dealing with my distributor optical sensor not syncing with Megasquirt. I got around 30 seconds of unassisted starting or more before the battery started waining. It does kick harder after it warms up and it does that quick. If you fail to start and let it sit a bit it will kick much harder when you try again.