Cool. My AA has been messed up for a while now since I no longer have the front air dam and my simulator thing isnt workin.

How did you wire the switch up?

 

its a, double pull, double throw, center return rocker switch.

basicly you run the 2 power wires to the center post, then make a X shape and flip the power to one post, but keep the other posts parrellel. if that makes any sence....

 

Sweet! Where did you get the switch at? I've been looking for one very similiar to that. Good work!

 

i bought it at a company called NORVAC here locally in beaverton oregon. Its a marine switch. Syncho cracked it open an re wired it so the light would turn on when the uper limit switch hit. I used dry rub transfers to add the lettering.

I guess i could buy one and ship to ya if you need the same.

 

Thanks, I appreciate that. I will do a little more shopping around to see if I can find one online, but if I don't, I wouldn't mind paying you a little extra to get one for me. Thanks!

Richie

 

no need for "a little extra" it helps the community thats all i care about. just the price of the switch, shipping... thats it. ill even add the lettering just like mine if you want. free of charge

 

Is there a way to wire the stock switch like this? if not, can you pick me up one to? I'd like to get my wing working, it's been years..

 

Jimmy do you have a wire diagram for how you wired it? I think I know what you mean just a diagram would be better. How much for a switch also be intrested in one. Thanks

 

My bad I found the diagram. Still intrested in a switch.

 

I need AA info here. My front is gone but a simulator is in place and it worked when I bought the car. When my car was in the shop, they had to remove some of the intercooler piping and when everything was said and done, my AA didn't work anymore, I just get the dash light. Exactly where would the simulator be located and what does one look like. I think that during the under hood work that was done, the simulator was disrupted somehow and needs looked at but I have no idea where to start. TIA

 

I am presuming this method for manual aero does not use the microswitches in any way.

So does this method screw up the drive cables?

I tried this last night and you can hear the motor starting to chew up the cables if the motor is powered too long.

Has anyone worked out a way to incorporate the limit microswitches? From what I can tell it is quite easy to put the microswitches into the circuit, with parallel diodes to help with the transient on / off / up / down state. However I would think the microswitches are just going to burn out in next to no time.

Thanks

James