1. If I just installed a 200A alternator shouldn't I change the fusible link to be 200a?

Yea, but I think most manufacturers will recommend replacing the fusible link with an inline fuse, like your #3 asks as well.
Regardless you'll want to replace all wiring which is suffering from too much Vdrop due to high current, Included is the batt. to alt, batt to chassis, alt to chassis, batt to amp(s), amp(s) to chassis.

2. Since the fusible link has not blown, does this mean I am not exceeding the 120a draw (or bass hits don't count since they are not constant). Maybe if I run a bass test tone at full volume, I'll burn out the fusible link? My amperage gauge for my stereo on full volume w/bass hits draws between 50-90amps.

It means you're not exceeding the link's limits at X-current at Y-length of time
Once you do you'll burn out that link.

 

Thanks for the information, that was exactly what I'm looking for. I already have a couple of 120a fuses under the hood for audio/video equipment and stuff. I guess adding another one won't be crazy. I take a look to see if I can find a 200Amp ANS fuse or something and run some 4 gauge power wire. I am getting into the group buy for the ground wire kit here, which is all 4 gauge, so I think I'm covered on the grounds that way.

Any other HO alternator folks want to share what they did with their alternator wiring?

 

Which alternator did you buy? I am interested in upgrading mine as well.

 

Which alternator did you buy? I am interested in upgrading mine as well.

:stupid: yeah, what he said!

any idea how much more an alternator this big draws on the engine?
are we talking an extra 2-4 HP or more like 10-15

 

Steve, who all makes hi output alternators for our cars? I'm sure you did some shopping prior to your purchase... please advise

 

Look under group buy for some H/O alternator choices.

Every 20 amp increase in output by an alternator will be about a 2hp reduction. That's actual amperage output, not rated.

 

Look under group buy for some H/O alternator choices.

Every 20 amp increase in output by an alternator will be about a 2hp reduction. That's actual amperage output, not rated.

wait, I'm gonna lose 2hp every 20 amps? What does that mean if I'm getting 200 amp / 110 amp idle HO alternator?

 

Well, 20A is just an estimate, maybe it's closer to 25A.
We have to remeber that music has a very low duty cycle.
If your draw is 110 amps, you'll probably be using 4-5hp to achieve this output from the alternator. 110 amps is a lot or current. And since music has such a low duty cycle, I'd be very surprised if the draw is noticeable.
If someone's system even can draw over 100 amps for any continous period of time, I would think it's very doubtful that someone would actually feel a loss in HP..
Unless you're running WOT with your music blasting full tilt.

 

Unless you're running WOT with your music blasting full tilt.

is there any other way honestly.

 

LOL, true

 

many misconceived ideas here..

1.) a 200 amp alternator is not going to pull 20 hp until it is MAKING 200a. Its not like just because an alternator can make 100 amps at idle that it actually is. amp output is equal to current drain from the battery. at idle you should be pulling less than 10a with everything off.

2.) if you are using enough energy to cause a drag on the motor you can and WILL notice it because the engine is producing VERY little hp/torque at idle and low speed. this of course will have nothing to do with the alternator you have but with how much power you are pulling (i.e. car with stock alternator will act virtually identical to car with upgraded alternator up to peak output of the stock one) this can range from the idle drop seen when turning the wheels or turning on the a/c compressor all the way up to stalling the engine... more likely on cars with lightened rotating mass.

 

I don't see any misconceptions here

1.) a 200 amp alternator is not going to pull 20 hp until it is MAKING 200a. Its not like just because an alternator can make 100 amps at idle that it actually is. amp output is equal to current drain from the battery. at idle you should be pulling less than 10a with everything off.

Every 20 amp increase in output by an alternator will be about a 2hp reduction. That's actual amperage output, not rated.

Alternator will more than likely be outputting around 20-30A
at idle, with no headlights or a/c.

2.) if you are using enough energy to cause a drag on the motor you can and WILL notice it because the engine is producing VERY little hp/torque at idle and low speed. this of course will have nothing to do with the alternator you have but with how much power you are pulling (i.e. car with stock alternator will act virtually identical to car with upgraded alternator up to peak output of the stock one) this can range from the idle drop seen when turning the wheels or turning on the a/c compressor all the way up to stalling the engine... more likely on cars with lightened rotating mass.

@ idle the car's throttle should be adjusted to maintain adequate RPM for alternator output.....that's just common sense. So hp should always be adequate to above adequate at idle for maximum load on the circuit.
Can you tell a difference if you've decided you want to idle below what you need for hp due to current...sure, but it doesn’t make any sense.