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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Okay, so I've been working on my bucket for about 10 years.....slowly rebuilding it. I uploaded a video to my youtube channel on what it's doing. It's hard to hear me due to my loud ass car and my softer voice.

I have blue smoke (burning oil) when it sits after a few mins, and a wonky super high idle over 2k, sometimes the rpm needle will bounce or read zero, but the rpm shows up just fine on my SAFC. (my ECS is deleted from the car and the ECS computer is unplugged/gone). I have new resistors to solder in to my gauge cluster for the rpm gauge. I'll prob do that on the weekend. I have triple checked the white wire going to the PTU for the rpm signal as well, and it's fine. I also have a MAFT translator with a 3.5 GM MAF.

BUT I have zero oil in my turbo inlet or outlet pipes. The TB was rebuilt but April back when she was still doing them. I did a compression test and it passes on al six cyl. Did a leak down test and it past. I rebuilt the heads took them to a machine shop, put new vss in. But a part of me thinks that the seals may be leaking. My IAC is good, my TPS is good ISC is good. Checked for boost leaks couldn't find any.

I do have a kinda funky vac line setup, which could be the issue. I tried to show it in the video. I am using a crank vent instead of a pvc valve on the front head maybe this could also be causing a issue? And I have the rear valve cover hooked up to a oil catch can that routes back to the intake pipe. I'm trying to remember all of the things that I have done over the span of putting this car back together, please forgive me if I forgot something. I'm out of idea's as to what else it can be.

I do have HHH and will log tomorrow again to record what it says.


Soooo, what are anyone thoughts?? Cause I'm fresh out of ideas. :/
 

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Panama Green,mostly stock with 13G's, Oohnoo SMIC, money pit
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In regards to the high idle have you checked to ensure the throttle cable or the dashpot that slows down the closing of the throttle plate that last bit isn’t holding the throttle plate open somewhat.
P
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Take off the hose that connects the front valve cover to the lower intake manifold and block off the intake end, see what happens.
Bypass the crank vent, I as thinking about that today as well. I'll give that a go tomorrow morning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
In regards to the high idle have you checked to ensure the throttle cable or the dashpot that slows down the closing of the throttle plate that last bit isn’t holding the throttle plate open somewhat.
P
Yup that was one of the first things that I double checked. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Poked around on the car today, noticed that the throttle cable was hooked up under the rear turbo pipe. Moved it to route above the pipe instead, the idle went down a couple hundren rpm's, but it's still high around 1500-1600+. I noticed while logging on my HHH that my MAF HZ were pretty high, around 114hz at 1500+ rpm. I'm running a 3.5" GM MAF or a 3" I forgot. It' shouldn't be that high though right? It's been awhile but shouldn't it be around 40-50hz at idle?? I know my car is idling very high right now, but even then it shouldn't be reading that many HZ%. I'm also going to look up the readings what the o2 sensors should be. The front one looked a little off and to high as well.


I took off the hose for the front valve cover, and plugged the hose, it looked like a change in burning oil, I really need another hand to at least rev it while I'm in the back checking out the exhaust, it's hard to do everything yourself sometimes. But I'm going to go ahead and pick up a stock PCV valve tomorrow and see. It may end up being the crank vent, that would be awesome if it turned out to be something that simple, after chasing my tail for a week.

As far as the overheating goes, I'm going to hot wire my fans to a switch that I can turn on and off at will. I am going to try to wire it up so I have the option of having both on or only the passenger side on, hooked up to a switch. The passenger side fan isn't turning on by it's self, but the relay's are fine, along with the fuses, and the fans both work when directly energized. But I'm tried of dealing with chasing it, so I will just bypass the entire thing and put it on a switch.
 

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I looked on your signature line and didn’t see what year your car is. Did pick up on the 6 inch high heels though.
I really need another hand to at least rev it while I'm in the back checking out the exhaust
Bleeding brakes and the clutch has got to be the biggest PIA by yourself ! Found the Russel speed bleeders so made THAT job much easier. I have been using my phone set up to record video while I do a task. I will talk ( or yell) each step so I can follow it when I review the video.

I’m sure others know off hand what a reasonable reading is but I would say if it’s high would make sense from the excess volume of air moving through the engine. HAVe you physically checked the throttle plate recently ? Also with it just sitting still you can plug off every vacuum line at the intake pipe / manifold and see if that makes a difference.

02 sensors are always moving rich to lean so .900 to .100 average is .450Volt that is what you would like to see or .99 to 1.01Lambda.

P
.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Have you done the biss adjustment procedure?
Yup already did that.


I looked on your signature line and didn’t see what year your car is. Did pick up on the 6 inch high heels though.

Bleeding brakes and the clutch has got to be the biggest PIA by yourself ! Found the Russel speed bleeders so made THAT job much easier. I have been using my phone set up to record video while I do a task. I will talk ( or yell) each step so I can follow it when I review the video.

I’m sure others know off hand what a reasonable reading is but I would say if it’s high would make sense from the excess volume of air moving through the engine. HAVe you physically checked the throttle plate recently ? Also with it just sitting still you can plug off every vacuum line at the intake pipe / manifold and see if that makes a difference.

02 sensors are always moving rich to lean so .900 to .100 average is .450Volt that is what you would like to see or .99 to 1.01Lambda.

P
.
I've owned quite a few 3/s over nearly 20 years. This is on my 92 Stealth TT. I don't have a problem bleeding brakes or clutch lines. I have a custom adjustable locking "pole" that I made when I used to work at the Dealerships yearssss ago. And I also love speedy bleeders, those things are a life saver. Then when I can, heck I'll gravity bleed when possible. It's when you need someone to hold and push a super heavy part for you when you're the only one around that sucks. :(

Yes I have physically check the throttle plate, i did it before I posted this post as a "let me triple check" just one more time. I'm going to review my log again to see but I remember once my front o2 was weirdly high for a moment.

I am looking up what the readings are suppose to be for the MAF. Mines was I believe to high. First thing tomorrow I will also plug up my vacuum lines and see what happens and I will be picking up a stock PCV valve to swap in as well.
Keeping my fingers crossed.
 

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1992 3000GT VR4
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Compression check your cylinders as rings maybe letting oil by pass into cylinders
Being heavily worn
Your compression
Needs to sit around 150 psi low end and
180 psi on the high end would indicate healthy compression
Any lower then 150 your piston rings are all kinds of sad faced
Your pcv valve if deleted needs to vent in a closed loop per say back to throttle opening vacuum... to help suck out block pressure
The vent side needs to be vented to atmosphere or catch can but doesn't need to be blocked off reason for this is that when wide open throttle 4500rpm plus .... the vacuum for block pressure is reversed hints PCV check valve
Needs to vent out of vent side (rear valve cover)

Routing your PCV & Vent like this would indicate that this is why your smoking

After changing your RPM gauge caps with no change in rpm bounce
Would also point you in the direction of a bad PTU
Just my thoughts on it
 

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Im Running dual catch cans
The PVC valve runs from front valve cover to lower intake manifold (ports)
Make longer hoses to put a sealed catch can in between that (can needs to sit vertical as possible) FOR PCV
The breather side doesn't need to return to the rear turbo inlet pipe cap the inlet pipe port off
1 hose ran from rear valve cover vent to a "vented" catch can and cap the other return port off on the catch can leaving filter vent open to atmosphere

Example =



Sealed catch can (PCV)
Vented catch can (Breather) single hose
Still using PCV valve
This is meant to cut down on blow by
power robbing deposits vented from the block
Moisture from cold start like having a cold drink on a hot day
Unburnt fuel / vapor
And oil kicked up from high revs / loads

Factory set ups the manufacturer's haven't seem to figure out this issue yet
Aftermarket catch cans are a must specially on these newer vehicles that are direct injection
(The intake valves never get washed down by fuel)

Ever single 4 stroke engine in my opinion should come with a catch can

What I'm seeing is that you have way to much block pressure trying to escape but it can't
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Compression check your cylinders as rings maybe letting oil by pass into cylinders
Being heavily worn
Your compression
Needs to sit around 150 psi low end and
180 psi on the high end would indicate healthy compression
Any lower then 150 your piston rings are all kinds of sad faced
Your pcv valve if deleted needs to vent in a closed loop per say back to throttle opening vacuum... to help suck out block pressure
The vent side needs to be vented to atmosphere or catch can but doesn't need to be blocked off reason for this is that when wide open throttle 4500rpm plus .... the vacuum for block pressure is reversed hints PCV check valve
Needs to vent out of vent side (rear valve cover)

Routing your PCV & Vent like this would indicate that this is why your smoking

After changing your RPM gauge caps with no change in rpm bounce
Would also point you in the direction of a bad PTU
Just my thoughts on it
The motor is new with zero miles on the rebuild. I did a compression and a leak down test, as stated all passed.

The PTU is new and I already test it twice as stated.

What I am going to do tomorrow is set base timing, I do not believe that I did that. I remember it was on my to do list, but was never done, due to me restoring other vehicles during that time period. I have street strip cams and adjustable cam gears. I will double check to see what degree I set my cams at. I also know that I put a new crank angle sensor in after the rebuild. I adjusted my TPS sensor again set it at 14%, along with SAS adjustment and biss adjustments. It is idling around bearly 500rpm now but sounds like crap. I'm going to sleep on it for now and see what else I can think of for tomorrow to check.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Im Running dual catch cans
The PVC valve runs from front valve cover to lower intake manifold (ports)
Make longer hoses to put a sealed catch can in between that (can needs to sit vertical as possible) FOR PCV
The breather side doesn't need to return to the rear turbo inlet pipe cap the inlet pipe port off
1 hose ran from rear valve cover vent to a "vented" catch can and cap the other return port off on the catch can leaving filter vent open to atmosphere

Example =

View attachment 304892

Sealed catch can (PCV)
Vented catch can (Breather) single hose
Still using PCV valve
This is meant to cut down on blow by
power robbing deposits vented from the block
Moisture from cold start like having a cold drink on a hot day
Unburnt fuel / vapor
And oil kicked up from high revs / loads

Factory set ups the manufacturer's haven't seem to figure out this issue yet
Aftermarket catch cans are a must specially on these newer vehicles that are direct injection
(The intake valves never get washed down by fuel)

Ever single 4 stroke engine in my opinion should come with a catch can

What I'm seeing is that you have way to much block pressure trying to escape but it can't
I'm going to reroute the rear catch can and block off the port so it just vents to open atmosphere tomorrow as well.

Good catch though on the can. I don't have a front can setup on the crank vent, it just routed from the lower into directly to the front valve cover. And of course I sold a spare can that I had to a member a year ago so I don't have one on hand to swap in. Psh...I'll pop in a stock PVC valve for now until I can review the front setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
its not uncommon for a fresh built engine to smokes a bit until it has been run in
Oh yea I know, but this was excessive. Plus the really rough high idle and the car sounds off. This was beyond the normal bit of smoking until break in. I'm going to re route the front crank vent and see what happens.

SBL; last you mentioned car was idling at 1500. What did you do to have it idle at 500 ? Or is that a typo.

P
I reset the tps, sas and biss. Then started it back up and it was idling around 500 and then it died after a few mins. So I still have some messing about to do. But I am going to set the base timing tomorrow, since I forgot that I never did that when I put in the new crank angle sensor. I think the timing is slightly off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
If you have a ruff low idle and stall
Do you have a vent to atmosphere blow off valve?
If you do this is normal can be fix with a good tune
A good tune is DEF on the to do list. :D
Got to tighten up this little mess first, I ordered another catch can already off of good ole amazon. If it wasn't so late I would go down to the garage and mess around with the car right now. This has been the longest build argh....can't wait until it's done. I'm so close to being done it's driving me a bit crazy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
get all you base parameters set then check your idle afr at normal engine operating temp the 11.9-12 that was in your video seems quite rich even at 2000 rpms excess fuel not good on a fresh engine
Thanks yea I know, hopefully tomorrow I can make some progress. thumbs up
 
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