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I have a 1997 non turbo dohc parts car and a 96 vr4 which is my daily. I heard in some places that the new style lifters didn't come until 97, would i be able to use the lifters off of the 97 SL to get rid of my lifter tick? It would be a lot cheaper than buying a set of 3rd gen lifters...
 

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What have you tried to eliminate the tick?
Also, some have found that after switching to the larger bore lifters, they still had ticking issues (not all, but some).

You will get varied opinions on how to reduce/eliminate lifter tick, but I'll offer up my solution, and you can either choose to try it or let someone else offer a different one.

First off, I have owned 3 TT'd cars. A 94VR4, then a 92TT and now a 95 SpderVR4.
In every car I have used the following treatment with excellent success.

Next time you change your oil get:

1 - 5 quart jug of Mobile 1 - High Mileage 10W/40 Synthetic. I get mine at Wally World for ~$25


1 - 16.9 oz bottle of Rislone


1- GOOD oil filter. I usually use either a Mobile 1 or a K&N filter, both have anti-drainback valves.

Drain old oil and remove and toss old filter.

Pre-charge (fill it almost all the way up) your new filter with some of the Rislone.
Install filter.

Add the 10W/40 to your engine, being careful not to overfill.


Now, it may take more than 1 change to see improvement, but I think you will find even after the 1st you will see some.

Again, THIS is what I do. It has worked for me and my cars for 25 yrs and close to 300,000 miles (between the 3).

Good luck with whatever you do...

Bob.
 
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Using some engine treatment as Bob mentioned can help. I once did what some people are super skeptical of and dumped half a bottle of seafoam into my crankcase and ran it gently for about 30 mins before changing the oil (and filter of course). It helped quite a bit. That was about 50k miles ago.

If you don't want to run any treatments through your oil, you should try thicker oil if you arent already running 20W50 and live in a suitable climate for it. During the summer months i run 20W50 in my VR4 and I add 1/2-1 bottle of lucal oil stabilizer which significantly increases the viscosity. This almost eliminates lifter tick.

Also, make sure you oil pressure is good to begin with. There's a lot i would try before swapping used lifters from one car to another.
 

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?Mark
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its 91-98 lifters or the bigger ones from only 99
 
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You'll need to pop the valve covers to be 100% sure the '97 has the larger bore lifters, but in my experience with both DSMs and 3/S swaping to the revised lifters cured my lifter tick. I'll have to disagree with DuTTch here, as I recall that the revised lifters were introduced during the '97 model year for both the 4g and 6g engines. Both my '98s had them, as well as my buddy's '97, and iirc CAPS indicates the change in '97 as well for both platforms. People often refer to them as "99 lifters," or "third gen lifters," but that's not really the case. Of course my memory may be faulty and coincidentally all the previous owners of my cars changed the lifters (but couldn't be bothered to do any other maintenance) before I bought them. In any case, it'll be easy enough for you to find out if you have them available by pulling the valve covers. Good luck with curing that annoying tick.
 

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As I've always understood it, only the 1999 models came with the larger bore lifters.

My 1997 VR4 originally came with the smaller bore lifters. In order to resolve the ticking I took them out, soaked and flushed them with diesel fuel using a MIG wire to open them, and then reinstalled. This completely resolved a pretty substantial lifter tick. As I understand it, the tick is caused when oil gunk builds up inside them and blocks the oil flow needed for them to pump up quickly. Clear out the gunk and flow is restored.

I later installed the '99 lifters as part of an engine build. As of this past year, 11 years later, I started hearing lifter tick on occasion with those.
 

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That's the proper way to fix it, by cleaning.
The engine of my 91 was rebuilt in about 2003, the lash adjusters were cleaned the proper way, still no ticking today. Still original lash adjusters.

The later ones with the bigger holes in them, nothing to do with the ticking, those bigger holes, they let the oil out not in.
 

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The later ones with the bigger holes in them, nothing to do with the ticking, those bigger holes, they let the oil out not in.
Letting oil out is the entire point, is it not? The small bore lifters had decreased oil flow(especially so with buildup) so the rocker arm would tap off the top of the lifter and not a nice oil cushion that would be there with sufficient oil flow. But hey, I guess Mitsubishi, the multi-billion dollar company, redesigned an manufactured new lifters to be used in basically all their cars for no real reason, right? Because you are so much smarter, and know things so much better than Mitsubishi themselves, right? God, maybe Mitsubishi should hire you, you just might even turn them around. Restore them to their former glory, ya know?
 

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Letting oil out is the entire point, is it not?
Of course not.

If it collapses and ticks it's because there's more oil coming out of it than going into it.
If it were the other way around with more tying to get in than coming out, it'll stay pressurised and won't tick.
 

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Hrmm.
It would seem to me, if the lifter is "collapsed" then not much oil is neither coming in or going out.
No?

Bob.
 

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Of course not.

If it collapses and ticks it's because there's more oil coming out of it than going into it.
If it were the other way around with more tying to get in than coming out, it'll stay pressurised and won't tick.
If the lifter collapses pretty sure the rocker arm would just fall off. The hydraulic lifters seem pretty simple design wise. Oil is fed to them via the small hole in the side from the oil passages, the top hole lets some of the oil out so the rocker arm isn't metal to metal. Once again I point out that Mitsubishi obviously changed them for a reason. But like I said, I guess you know better than Mitsubishi and all their engineers.
 

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When you assemble the engine you fit the lash adjusters squashed up.
The rockers don't fall off.
They only fall off when it's a reground cam with smaller base circle and you forgot to fit washers under the lash adjusters to take up the difference in slack.
 

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Well that isn't a collapsed lifter now is it? That's just an unprimed lifter. "Collapsed" would imply that the lifter is unable to hold hydraulic pressure at all due to a mechanical failure of some kind, and thus permanently compressed. Unprimed lifters just prime themselves within a few seconds of the engine starting due to oil pressure.
 

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Well that isn't a collapsed lifter now is it? That's just an unprimed lifter. "Collapsed" would imply that the lifter is unable to hold hydraulic pressure at all due to a mechanical failure of some kind, and thus permanently compressed. Unprimed lifters just prime themselves within a few seconds of the engine starting due to oil pressure.
Stop being silly, there's a minimum height that they can squash down to, the rockers can't fall off if installed correctly.
 
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