Well Player, I just want to start with a question- how hard of a grind is it? Like popping the car in reverse with the tach up around 1500, or is it tight and you can feel a hint of vibration? Whichever the case, change the fluid to something good, like Redline MT-90. If it's a hard grind, you might want to get it checked, but if it's just tight, baby it real good.
And for the answer to your question, it's a combination of two factors-
1)There is minimal lubrication on the upper halves of the gears when you start the car. It slowly drips back into the tranny's pan while the car is at rest, and takes quite a few revolutions of the gears (once you get going for a couple of minutes) for the fluid to get all good and gooey over the parts..
2)Basic thermal dynamics- cold makes metals contract, and heat makes them expand. Every gear in your car gets decently warm as you're driving, and through the dispersion of heat through the system from the engine. And when you shut the engine off and let the car cool down, a couple hours later, the components have all contracted slightly, and the gears have a smaller contact area between one another's jogs (the teeth).
To help aleviate this problem, be sure and start your car and let it idle for at least a minute or so before you begin driving, longer during winter months. And certainly, don't do any hard accelerating until the temp gauge shows nominal operating temperature, and the transmission feels good and warm- good solid shifts without grind.
My trans works similar, but it is also hard to downshift into first before its warmed up. This is probably caused by the slight dimensional differences in the syncros before it is warmed up. But, I did check the gear oil level in the trans and found it 1/2 a quart low. I haven't tested it yet, but you might want to check yours.
I have the same problem with mine. I am glad that someone asked about it on here. I never thought to. I just always thought it was the gears and everythin warming up. I guess I will go ahead and get my fluids checked.
please..PLEASE get it checked out. Mine has done the same since I bought it (used 6 months ago), and only gets worse with time. I have the fluid levels filled up, and am using redline. and it grinds like crazy to where I cant shift into second (just pop it into 3rd at 5000 from 1st), until i drive for 10-15 minutes, and then I can shift into 2nd only if I double clutch and shift a little slow. Any solution to this? My guess is the synchros are going bad...
I checked the shifting after topping off the trans fluid with 1/2 a quart. When cold there is some improvement on the 2-1 downshift and on the 1-2 upshift, but still not as it should be. I've use BG Ultraguard for the last 40K miles
My bigger worry is the trans "rattle" that you may have seen posted before. I emailed Kormex Transmissions and they said it sounds like the counter cluster bearing. The rattle is still there after topping the fluids, so I'm going to take it to the dealer for warranty work. I've got until the end of January.
A slight crunch is commomn among most manual transaxles when they are cold. Starion/Conquest people seem to be more meshing. I guess the Starquest tranny are familiar with the term crunch than you 3S people. I would define a crunch as < 10 individual vibrations from the gears actually mitsu items and man did they get it right - if you've never shifted a well broken in Starion Fivespeed with that 2 pound knob - I've NEVER felt a tranny shift SO smoooooth. But when you power shift um too hard they fight back with a crunch. As far as I know crunches are'nt that bad - Anything more pronounced is usually a bad sign.
[This message has been edited by Iniquity (edited December 24, 1999).]
The "rattle" will go away when I push the clutch in. It will not go away when I push the clutch partially in; just enough to load the Throw-out bearing and keep the input shaft turning. This was my test to if the TO bearing was bad. The rattle is intermitent, but all it takes to get the rattle is either reving it to 3K rpm or quickly pressing/releasing the clutch. I am pretty sure the rattle is not related to the shifting problem (syncros)
I think that most manual trans will be a bit hard to shift when cold or may not do 1-2 downshift right away. I had a 82 Toyota like that. But, within a few minutes the trans should work. On cold start-up in the AM at 50 F and below, the Stealth won't do the 2-1 ds for 10-15 minutes even though the engine up to temp. It does shift well after a 1/2 hour or so. It's definitely is worse than last year.
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