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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was wondering who has the highest mileage and is still running the “stock”, from the factory, clutch in their VR-4 or R/T TT?

The reason I am asking is because their are GB’s going on clutch’s; flywheels, discs’ pressure plates as well as the complete packages, I also see some deals on this type of stuff on eBay as well. What I was wondering is; should buy one, just to have "just in case", or I am already living on borrowed time?

As most of you know I have a 92 VR-4 now with 109,000 miles and I am still on the original clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing. I know this is the original clutch because I purchased this car new in 92 and have never replaced it.

Thanks,

Dave Best
 

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resident evil
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17,080 Posts
I had my stock clutch replaced at 60,000 miles because

A. They were replacing the tranny for free under factory 6-60k powertrain, and it was just costing me the price of the clutch

B. The stock clutch started slipping at WOT in third gear at the drag strip and wouldn't hold more then a 3500rpm launch.

That said, the tech told me it still had about 1/3 of its life left at that time. Some people have better driving styles and do not slip their clutches much or downshift to slow down, so their clutches can last awhile. The tech at Mitsu was actually amazed because he told me the stock clutches last about 50k miles when driven by young guys like me aggressively. If I were you, I would just try a hard launch or two and see if the clutch is holding or just goes up in smoke. If its holding, there is no sense in getting one now, wait until your 120k tune-up comes around. On the other hand, if you buy the part when its on sale, it will not be such a huge expense when the tune-up time comes around and you pay for it all at once.

I ave had my RPSII in for about 50,000 miles, and my 120k tune-up is going to consist of a full race build by GZP and I am going with an RPS CC clutch. My goal is 500AWHP at 16psi with all of the new GZP components which are being developed. This is going to be true street power with emissions compliance and no daily tweaking required.

Sam
 

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I suck @ Life
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damn, 109k that is amazing, I remember another board member saying he went though 4 clutches in 70k. I am at 61K but I have no idea if I am on the original clutch.
 

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The gloves are now off
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I changed my original clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, and throw out bearing at around 85k. 30k of which I was "bpu" :) The clutch was actually still pretty good, I just decided to jump in on a great group buy Hans was doing w/the rps's, and i wanted the fidanza. So I guess I was in a similar situation as you are in now. I think my clutch could have gone 100k but not much more than that. I say that if you can spring for the clutch now, do it. You dont want to wait for the clutch to die first because then you will have more down time.
 

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i am on my second stock clutch with 130 something thousand miles on it, it just started to slip a few weeks ago
 

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The Reality Of Tomorrow
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My stocker was slipping and taken out @ 72k. My car has been stock it's whole life up until then.

-m
 

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92,000 and still going. No slipping.

This includes maybe a dozen 1/4 mile runs on the track and a couple on the "private test track"

I must note that I am very good at getting some real mileage out of clutchs.
 

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My original clutch was replaced at 65k, but only because they were in there already. Old clutch worked fine, it was just that I melted the throwout bearing on the output shaft, got new ones and had a clutch put in at same time just to be safe. 2nd clutch was also taken out prematurely, removed it when replaced the block, 2nd clutch was in good shape with no slippage, just figured it was smarter to replace when they had the engine out.

Just baby it and don't do hard launches and it should work fine for a few more weeks.

Lord Warlock
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks guys, that gives me a pretty good picture of what I should do. I think I am going on Han's GPZ carbon/carbon set up, disc pressure, throw out bearing and fly wheel. I'll more than likely change the clutch master and slave cylinders at the same time too. From what I can tell they kind of follow the clutch once you mess around and replace one you usually have to replace the other.

Thanks again,

Dave Best
 

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Trogdor strikes again!
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Dumb question alert....

I bought my car with 104K miles, and I'm now at 106K. No slipping, even on hard launches. Is there a way I can tell if I still have the stock clutch?
 

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West Side!
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114K and factory original clutch... I'm just waiting for the thing to explode.
laters,
Gene C.
 

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Wrenchmonkey #839
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Evil whisper in Dave's Ear....

Buy it Dave.... You Know You want too.... Ha ha ha.

I replaced mine at 68K because I had the engien out, It looked great and drove great. At 90K my ACT is starting to stink when I drive it hard, I will probably buy a new clutch over the winter because I need to repalce the output shaft.

My guess is that your output shaft is in worse shape than your clutch unless you took the transfer cause off an put anti-sieze on the output shaft, I am convinced that shoud be part of 30K maintenabce after looking at several cars with 60K on them.
 

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Man, you sure take your time, but then again, why replace when not broken? Do you feel it going, do you want to go faster, or is it the peer pressure? hehe
mine has 78K
 

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In charge
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WARdriver said:
Dumb question alert....

I bought my car with 104K miles, and I'm now at 106K. No slipping, even on hard launches. Is there a way I can tell if I still have the stock clutch?
Can you ask the person you bought it from about the parts that have been replaced? I'd be kind of surprised if you bought the car without asking about the mechanical history, but I guess if the clutch is grabbing it may not have been an issue of discussion.
 
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