which clutch???
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Joined
·
1,709 Posts
I'd recommend the RPS clutch.
That is what I have and it holds a lot of power.
For the install price, I don't know.
I did mine myself with the help of a website:
www.stealth316.com
That is what I have and it holds a lot of power.
For the install price, I don't know.
I did mine myself with the help of a website:
www.stealth316.com
Well I'd say if you have the money and if you plan on upgrading more then go for either one of the Carbon/Carbon RPS setups!!! If you don't have the money you should be fine with the RPS Maxx Steet Disc. DO NOT GET THE RPS 6-puck (like my stupid ass did) unless you plan on just racing the car. It is not a street clutch. The 6-pucks only last about 8-10k miles! So do yourself the favor and get the Street disc version! Also I agree with everyone else...only get RPS they are the best for our cars...and actually...3SX's clutches I've heard are doing really well as well...no bad comlplaints heard yet!!! Good Job 3SX!!!
Joined
·
3,031 Posts
my clutch is also out, and i'm going to go with the RPS MAX stage II street clutch. I have yet to hear a bad thing about it.
dstrbdkrm - Hey, how did doing your own work for your clutch workout? How long did it take? I've heard over that stealth316 page on the tranny and stuff, but i dont think i could do it myself. PM me!
dstrbdkrm - Hey, how did doing your own work for your clutch workout? How long did it take? I've heard over that stealth316 page on the tranny and stuff, but i dont think i could do it myself. PM me!
Joined
·
1,709 Posts
The step-by-step from stealth316 was great.
There are only a couple of things I do differently.
When taking the tranny out I use an old tire next to the jack in case it falls off the jack. Better for it to hit the tire than the pavement.
Second, when installing the clutch I use brake cleaner to clean the surfaces one last time before installing.
Third, I install the tranny a different way.
I lift the car up as high as my jack stands will go.
Then I place the tranny directly beneath where it mates to the engine.
Then two friends help me. One person laying across the engine to line it up and lift. The other two lifting the tranny by jacking it up and armstrength.
We lift and clear the obstacles and then shove it onto the input shaft.
It is hard your first time, but it's possible.
Make sure you have extra gaskets for the downpipe and anything else that might be shot.
And soak everything the night before in PB blaster or something similar.
When you install use antisieze on threads, use new lockwashers, and use a good torque wrench.
I have two one for up to 75 ft/lbs and one for up to 150 ft/lbs.
You will also need lots of sockets. You need deep ones, short ones, swivels, extensions, 1/4 drive, 3/8 drive, 1/2 drive all kinds to make sets to reach into all the recesses.
p.s. The first time I took my tranny out I had to kick it off the engine by laying on the ground under the driver's side wheel and kick it to break it loose.
GOOD LUCK and drop me a PM if you have any questions!!!
There are only a couple of things I do differently.
When taking the tranny out I use an old tire next to the jack in case it falls off the jack. Better for it to hit the tire than the pavement.
Second, when installing the clutch I use brake cleaner to clean the surfaces one last time before installing.
Third, I install the tranny a different way.
I lift the car up as high as my jack stands will go.
Then I place the tranny directly beneath where it mates to the engine.
Then two friends help me. One person laying across the engine to line it up and lift. The other two lifting the tranny by jacking it up and armstrength.
We lift and clear the obstacles and then shove it onto the input shaft.
It is hard your first time, but it's possible.
Make sure you have extra gaskets for the downpipe and anything else that might be shot.
And soak everything the night before in PB blaster or something similar.
When you install use antisieze on threads, use new lockwashers, and use a good torque wrench.
I have two one for up to 75 ft/lbs and one for up to 150 ft/lbs.
You will also need lots of sockets. You need deep ones, short ones, swivels, extensions, 1/4 drive, 3/8 drive, 1/2 drive all kinds to make sets to reach into all the recesses.
p.s. The first time I took my tranny out I had to kick it off the engine by laying on the ground under the driver's side wheel and kick it to break it loose.
GOOD LUCK and drop me a PM if you have any questions!!!
Joined
·
2,665 Posts
The clutch you buy now depends on how much horsepower you want to put out now and later. If you are just going up to BPU, then don't toss out $2000 on a clutch. If you are going beyond that... get the RPS Carbon-Carbon.
In addition, if you are a no driving, clutch riding, herky jerking take-offing fool, get the RPS Carbon-Carbon and pay someone who can drive to break it in for you.
devilmanVISA
In addition, if you are a no driving, clutch riding, herky jerking take-offing fool, get the RPS Carbon-Carbon and pay someone who can drive to break it in for you.
devilmanVISA
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Join the discussion
