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Discussion Starter #1
I want to put in clevite bearings when I put the engine all back together, do they make just main bearings or do they have crank to rod bearings also? where can I get them and about how much do they run?
 

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Im interested too. :) I don't mean to steal your thread but, which bearings can we change w/out pulling the motor? and how hard would that be on this car? :)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I dont think the main bearings would be too dificult but I dont know? it is all really easy on an engine stand... took me 3 hours to completly disassemble the whole engine.. that includes being careful and using about 80000000 ziplock bags!
 

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I got clevite rod bearings at autozone for $46, They sell standard, .25.50.75 over too.

Shovel, changing the rod bearings is fairly simple. Changing the main bearings require you to unbolt the tranny, flywheel, rear main seal, timing belt, crank pulley, oil pump and other parts. Not a fun job at all. I wouldn't worry about the main bearings, I have never heard of anyone sinning one of those on a 3s. It's a good idea to replace the rod bearings if you feel it is necessary.
 

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The clevite bearings are better than stock right?? I think it would be a good idea it change the rod bearings if they are better! Its probably a good idea to change them before they break.
 

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VA Turbo
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Really, the clevites are that cheap? I thought bearings would be more...sweet :cool: Should I go with those instead of stock? I bet AAM would feel wierd if I told them Autozone sells them.
 

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I dont know if they are any better than stock hehehe. My stockers lasted 163k miles :D

Brain, sorry I don't have any of the part #'s for ya. I would replace the thrust washers. I'm sure your old ones are fine, but since you are going all out, you might as well replace them too.

Shovel, I'm sure your rod bearings have some wear on them (thats there job) but you always run the risk of screwing something up. I'm sure you can do it though. Just drop that beautiful downpipe of yours ;) and then the pan. MAKE SURE not to mix up the rod caps. You should plastigauge them too, but I hate doing that and I didn't do it to mine (shhhh dont tell)
 

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Part numbers for clevite bearings: MS-1720P(mains), CB-1411P(rods), TW-458S(thrust). These were from Pep Boys but should probably be the same.
 

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Wrenchmonkey #839
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I shined the Main Bearing

matt92vr4 said:
I have never heard of anyone sinning one of those on a 3s. It's a good idea to replace the rod bearings if you feel it is necessary.
I shined my Main bearing:(

I will post a picture tonight if you are interested.

I threw the timing belt and when I was tearing the engine apart I noticed that one of the main bearings had a nice groove in it. The crank was slightlyt marred too. I figure I had only weeks until I spun a bearing. That is why I did the 4-bolt main conversion. I didn't realize I could just install the steel crank in my 2-bolt block.
 

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John, I love your car man!

I wonder if that is a 91 problem? I put a 94 crank in my 91 SL, but I did not see any signs of unusual wear.

Post a pic if its not too much trouble :)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yea I have a 2nd gen crank in my car from the last rebuild :D 2 rebuilds + original motor in 120k :D this time it didnt need it though and I would have probably gotten another 120k out of this motor is was perfect when I took it apart
 

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Wrenchmonkey #839
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matt92vr4 said:
John, I love your car man!

I wonder if that is a 91 problem? I put a 94 crank in my 91 SL, but I did not see any signs of unusual wear.

Post a pic if its not too much trouble :)
Thanks for the compliment.

This is a picture of my bearing cap showing the one bearing that was shot. The engine had 82,627 miles on it.



John Monnin
 

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youre telling me that the rod bearings are just little strips of metaL?
what the hell does the main and thrust bearing look like?
 
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