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Discussion Starter #1
Surprised nobody has started this thread. Work's closed down until April 13th, got 2 months worth of food (and beer!) laid in so I'm starting on my list which at this point is well under way. The car at this point has nearly 39k on it so I'm digging into what I want/need to do. Details: 1992 Stealth TT, 39k original miles, all bone stock.

1. 2 wire in cockpit high speed fan override.
2. Change oil (1,500 miles on it) to Royal Purple
3. Change transmission oil
4. Take a bottle of 409 and a brush and clean the heck out of the underside of the trans/engine.
5. Modify the underside tray to force a lot more air into the radiator.
6. Remove rear seats, build 2 seat sports car style tray and hatch divider
Maybe I might do it wish list:
7. Power disconnect for fuel pump (let system run dry) and prime switch to (maybe) stop the hot start blues
8. Stealth 316 fuel pump relay hotwire

I'm pretty geeked up about number 5. I've got a ton of 1/4 inch thick non rigid lexan that I build aero parts out of.
Number 1 is actually done, I just have to mount the switch.
4 is a sort of both cleaning and getting a clean surface to check for any sort of leaks. The oil pan is always oily but the level is always good. Transmission is also grimy so checking that too.
 

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For me its business as usual. My wife and I still have to go to work, kids are too young for school still so they go to the sitter (family relative). We were in the process of buying a new house, and that process has been slowed down. Hope to close next month
 

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1992 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin Turbo
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Replacing a leaky BOV and tearing my interior apart to replace the disintegrating old speakers. I might install a shallow mount sub if If I can find a setup that will fit in the hole right behind the rear seats. I've still got some research to do there.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Replacing a leaky BOV and tearing my interior apart to replace the disintegrating old speakers. I might install a shallow mount sub if If I can find a setup that will fit in the hole right behind the rear seats. I've still got some research to do there.

I'm glad the interiors are so easy to take out! I've been rolling around with most everthing from the back seats forward taken apart for a month.

But still, no matter where I try, the only decent spot for switches is the right console cover.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Working as usual...sadly, or maybe that should be thankfully? IDK
I hear you. I'd prefer to be working but I'm in the shelter in place gang and have a unique situation. I'm full time BUT on April 1, I retire and work part time with a 30% pay reduction to keep from going over the SS income limit. With the relief act and the supposed $600 additional temporary unemployment ststus, I'd make nealy $800 a month OVER the limit which will scew me next year.

If this happens, I've got to sock away a ton of money to make up for next year. And I can't put a penny in any retirement account under the law. This whole thing really sucks.
 

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It's still business as usual for me. My job/business is considered "essential" by the government. So essential, that my jackass CEO has decided, that we all still need to come into the office, to infect each other. :rolleyes:. I'm thankful that I still have a job, so I can only complain so much. But I'm still working on my rebuild at nights, after a full day's work and doing the family thing.
 

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Finally got my car back from paint so i can get back to putting the interior back together. Still need true black speaker panels though. Also ordered a fueltech ft550 ecu, so im reading over the manual until that comes in. Would like to replace the whole speedo cluster and get rid of all my gauges.
 

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Full on platform "stage 2 upgrade" as many refer to the accross the board replacement of soecific oem stock fuel, air and spark components, BlackStealth creation LCDBC Data logging and learning all I can from 3si member, platform mod guru and recently discovered homie
Turbosincebirth aka Michael

Already had full run catless Tanabi style? exhaust. And a local shop do a 120k service equivallent for nearly $4k!!! And yes I know better but had not yet met Michael and well had my ECU repaired AND a $750 oem rebuilt ecu ... bargains like mama from heaven...NOT!!!!

FF to recent months. Spent $4k more wisely. :)

Installed/completef in last 3 months: Full Vac line redux (all done by TSB because yo no hablo "rubber spaghetti", Add the three rear MSD plug wires TSB (plenum, manifold, lifters, synchros,,what I'm in DSM ESL NOT AP!, pre cats me myself yay me RIGJT OF PASSAGE! But choak out score is now Car 1 owner 0 , GM MAF + MAFT install-me, LCDBC with external MAC boost regulator-me, K&N cone and new chrome y pipe-me like an A in gym class or you do band class if neither sell car it's too complex it's a danger to you OR you to it Lol!!!!

Already bought, just need homie"s time to install because the ratio of my knoedge to UNDERSTANDING is just a little closer than "...ooohhh lookie, bolt on big, beautiful t....urbos...Swap in. Done. Go faster. " and then... BOOOOOOOMMMMMMM!!!!!!

Lololol!!!

So now I'm getting myself solidly addicted to data logging runs, watching numbers on LCDBC. And likely bugging the crap out of Michael with questions like my 11yo son is doing to me now that his 5 month long summer break just started. My wife is a nurse (BSN) so am essential worker. Thankful she was lucky to have switched from floor to admin a year ago; first C19 case was admitted this past Friday! 3 floor nurses are now in 2 week quarantine in spite of appropriate gear, a miscue with protocol gifted them uninformed exposure!!!


Less seriously though seriously beyond my ksa's, not touching installation of the following:

Boostmore Bolt on Td 04 15gs and matching oil lines, bovs, wastegste etc as necessary, walbro 400 fpump w hotwire, 550cc injectors, new bosch o2 sensors, AEM Wideband.

Yo TurboSinceBirth my garage is safe haven. Been on stay at home when the words were usually followed with mom and occasionally DAD!


HINT HINT, WINK WINK, NUDGE NUDGE!

What do you mean, an African or European swallow?

The Black Night always wins!

I'm not dead....

A duck

Three sir

THREE!

--------

3SI
HA...Geek match possibility for anyone who got that segue 100% positive if you laughed!!?

Peace
 

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Discussion Starter #10
You guys are really being productive!

Yesterday I bit the bullet and mounted the fan overide next to the power outlet and ran the Blackstealth OBD converter power lines. Today's list includes mounting a second under air dam lip (for lack of a better name) to redirect airflow into the radiator, measuring and cutting the rear seat delete tray and doing a temporary mount of the seatback delete board before I order the new trunk carpeting for the whole thing. Probably going to do another coat of Meguairs synthetic 2.0 too. Today is also the day for the big fuel pump resistor bypass. God, I hate the kludged up fuel system wiring. I know, let's put the fuel pump relay as far away from the pump as possible to introduce as much voltage drop as possible because we love exploding engines.
 

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Working here as normal also, but also trying to install my FMIC in the process, but no time.
 

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Today is also the day for the big fuel pump resistor bypass. God, I hate the kludged up fuel system wiring. I know, let's put the fuel pump relay as far away from the pump as possible to introduce as much voltage drop as possible because we love exploding engines.
Im really curious about this. This is to fix the hot start issue? How will you shut the car off?
 

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Work in the office alone, but much less hours. Before I worked 12-14hour a day (self employed as architect). But now I work 5 hours a day. Then I work around house, what I could not do before. And of course do some work on car.
In this perior of corona i did:
  • change turbos to dr 750, man that was a lot of work....biggest problem was around custom exhaust manifold ...
  • change sparks to ik27
  • Change PTU and coils
  • half mounted dr arc2, still need to finish inside and connect it to ECU
  • now I am doing coil hotwire setup
  • waiting to get my snowperformance2 from a friend who is in USA to bring it to my country in EU. To save some money from transport and custom.
  • also waiting for window regulators ....
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Im really curious about this. This is to fix the hot start issue? How will you shut the car off?
Nobody knows how to fix it. I spent hours reading about the kind of fuel even though people use E85, insulated rails, filters, pumps, leaking injectors, phase of the moon, color of underwear and apparently nothing works on every car, so I figure what the heck, lets drag out the old fix I've always used. Here's why.

I had a street legal 1978 NASCAR when I was younger. 10 second 1/4 mile, 150+, totally 0 body roll. It's actually why I have a Stealth because it's the closest I could find after the car died in a fire even though it's nowhere near as fast, it FEELS the same. Anyways, that car had a big problem. It sucked on hot starts. I mean you could run a battery flat, change batteries and it would run that one down too. The only solution we could come up with is replace the mechanical fuel pump with a Dayco Formula Ford electric pump and shut it off, and let the engine starve out. Then on restart, turn the pump on before start and let the system get pressurized. At that point it would start right up.

What grinds me about the 3k/stealth is that they used voltage to regulate the fuel flow instead of an actual regulator so there's the issue that you can't just hook up a switch because you're going to introduce resistance and affect the voltage so I have to use a relay where a relay has no business being. I mean come on, pressurize to 50 lbs and regulate at the injector end.
 

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1993 3000GT VR4
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There is still a manifold pressure referenced fuel pressure regulator on the end of the fuel rail. The resistor only lowers the voltage to the pump in certain low flow conditions, like hot idle, to help increase the lifespan of the pump. Most of the time though the pump is at full voltage (including cranking).
 

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I've been working from home so not much has changed. In the evenings and weekends though I've been working on a bathroom in my garage. Shower is installed, everything is drywalled/taped/mudded/sanded/painted... I need to decide on a sink and vanity next. I'd like to do a kitchen style setup with a deep sink. While paint and mud has been drying, I've been working on the Supra. I replace a bunch of leaky orings (oil cooler, dip stick tube, ps pump, cam sensor seals), installed new turbo, installed larger injectors. Tonight I'm going to cleaning and polish up the existing intercooler. I redid some IC piping already and ordered new couplers and better tbolt clamps. I've got a ps cooler on the way to replace the bent hardline. Then eventually I'm going to install some new fender liners I've had for a while.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
There is still a manifold pressure referenced fuel pressure regulator on the end of the fuel rail. The resistor only lowers the voltage to the pump in certain low flow conditions, like hot idle, to help increase the lifespan of the pump. Most of the time though the pump is at full voltage (including cranking).
Thanks for the information. There is SO much information, sometimes the forest and the trees get confusing. I'm taking the resistor bypass off the table at this point. Now I'm wondering if the stock FPR contributes to the problem.
 
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