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What MOTOR oil to use??

1K views 31 replies 24 participants last post by  Feral 
#1 ·
My 92 VR4 has around 46k miles (converting from km). I'm going to be changing my oil soon. My question is:

1. What weight/viscosity oil is the best to use for these cars?

and,

2. Should I go with the Mobile One synthetic?

I want the best for my car. The average temp here is 65-70 deg for "winter".
I've tried searching on this board and found one thread with several opinions from 5w-50!:eek: , 20-40, 10-30..ect, whats the BEST!?, whats the right answer? I didn't see anything on Stealth316 about motor oil. My owners manual is in Japanese :D Thanx
 
#2 ·
If you really want one of the best synthetic, get MOTUL V300 or something if you can find. It's bit expensive.
 
#3 ·
thanx for caring to reply :)

I just want to know IF i should go with synthetic.
and
what weight oil to use????????? simple question , I just cant seem to find the answer.
 
#4 ·
many of us

I, along with many other board members run Mobil full synthetic...I run 10W-30 in the summer, and 5W-30 in the winter. The general consensus is that the Mobil is a very capable oil.
 
#7 ·
wow!

i should try that royal purple....would it be a bad idea to switch to royal purple after mobil 1? I do have lifter tick but it seems everyone does.

The other thing I heard was that the K&N oil filter is very very good, and helps hold consistent oil pressure.
 
#8 ·
Castrol Syntec Blend 10w-30. Got rid of my lifter tick :)

Some engines may need to be cleaned. But after about 10 miles of driving on the syntec blend my ticking ceased.

W00T.
 
#9 ·
Amsoil ;)
 
#11 ·
DjMonnie said:
thanx for caring to reply :)

I just want to know IF i should go with synthetic.
and
what weight oil to use????????? simple question , I just cant seem to find the answer.
not a problem!;)

Well, if you were using conventional oil, then I don't see any
necessity to switch to the synthetic. One of my 3s fellow uses
just Castrol GTX (non synthetic)10W30 for his vr-4 with 100k miles.

I used to put MOBIL1 but I just changed to Royal Purple about 10k miles ago.

But if I were to spend some extra money, I would definitely get MOTUL products.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From MOTUL product Catalog:
--Motul synthetics have been designed, tested and raced by the best factories in the world. In the 1970's, Mazda recommended our 300V Comp. for their rotary engines, in the 1980's Jaguar XJS V12 engines ran HOT and the only oil to survive was again 300V Comp. When Mugen Honda developed the 1.6 liter Civic engine for "Group A" racing, they needed a special oil, 300V POWER was born! A 5w30 100% ester based oil that eventually was selected by a team headed by Mr. Hirotoshi Honda himself. His car won the "All Japan" championshit for 3 consecutive years. In the 1990's, we continue with our commitment to performance and quality with technical support to numerous teams in all forms of competition; including, the victory of the 24 hours of Le Mans GT2 class in 1996. MOTUL'S lubricants have always exceeded the highest standards in both the USA and Europe and we currently have factory approvals from PORSCHE, VW, ROVER, BMW, MERCEDES, AUDI, and ISUZU!
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

shit, my wrist hurts:p You can get those MOTUL stuff from porsche dealers.
 
#12 ·
oil

I use a bit of a combo.

3qt's VR1 50W racing oil. 1qt max life 5w30, and top it off with mobil syn 10w30.

I had horrible lifter noice, now I have none. Engine doesnt wear nearly as bad as my friend who uses just mobil syn.

When we did our rebuilds his engine was dirty, and pretty worn. Mine was pretty clean, and looked great. Synthetic is great for low mile engines, not good for high miles.

I got my VR4 with 56,000 miles on it. He got his at 34,XXX.

As for oil filters, buy Pureolator's. They filter the best and have the highest flow. Im not sure if I spelled that correct?Frams=trash.

As for the OEM filter, Ive heard its a Fram. I should buy one and cut it open to see.
 
#13 · (Edited)
Alight, I knew you guys had answers..thanx :D I think I'm gonna try the Royal Purple and maybe mobile one (to see how synthetic does), and use 10w30.. it doesnt get very cold here.

So, its ok to switch to synthetic on a low mileage (less than 50k) engine, but bad to switch back to conventional after using synthetic right?

Pureolator's are good filters from what I've seen too.
Anyone have experience with MOTUL oil?
Thanks again.
 
#14 ·
Hey DjMonnie, here is my opinion, someone please correct me if it's wrong:

if you dont have a turbo timer regular oil will eventually not be able to withstand the heat of a hot turbo once the ignition is off. however, the synthetic does not "cook" cause the heat points are much higher. When i get my vr-4, im going with some mobil 1 or any other high quality. As far as filters, as long as it's not the 2 dollar fram, i like the fram that comes in the can. Also, mobil 1 makes a nice filter, like 11 bucks.

cya man.
 
#15 ·
Go with the 10W40 then. IMO 30 is too low for Twin Turbo cars. The temperature gets too high. 40 is also not too thick for the oil to have problems getting to some places.

It should also cure your lifter tick a bit.

I am going with 5W40 this winter. I will change to 10W40 during the summer or stay with 5W40.

Luke
 
#16 ·
Synthtic may not "cook" like regualr oil but you still should let your car idle to cool off. I have a turbo timer so I usualy don't even think twice about it. Thanks, and good luck on getting your VR4 ;) is that is in your sig?
 
#17 ·
Hey man, thats my SL in the sig. Thanks to her i fell in love with these cars. You question with Oil is definately a good one, everyone has their own choices. I think with the timer regular 10w oil is fine. Maybe go with 40 like jwilliams said. 30 might be to thin.
cya
 
#18 ·
You can't go wrong with motul but they are too expensive for me:D

My friend's brother used to work for Porsche and told me they only use MOTUL products.
 
#20 ·
YES

TTVR4 said:
I had personally never even heard of Amsoil ~ maybe seen the name around once or twice - passed it off as a generic piece. Then I stumbled apon this article about engine oils in a random mechanical engineering journal at the (VT) library. It offered a totally independent comparison of oils ~ I believe they ran identical engines 100,000 miles with each oil - then measured number and size of the tiny scratches on the cylinder walls.

Amazingly, that random pos Amsoil was by far the best!?! :confused: My (at the time) beloved Mobile 1 was middle of the pack. I was blown away, and I couldn't even find Amsoil locally. But after reading that I had already been converted.

Unless it's especially cold or hot where you live, go with 10w40!
 
#21 ·
I have used mobile 1, castrol synthetic and many brands of regular oil but royal purple worked best. When I switched I have no lifter tick at all even after 1500miles since switching to this oil.
 
#24 ·
I've been running Mobil 1 5W30 and I don't really have any lifter tick to speak of. Yeah it's always there when I first start it up in the cold but after the cars warmed up there's usually no ticking.

Amazingly, that random pos Amsoil was by far the best!?! :confused: My (at the time) beloved Mobile 1 was middle of the pack. I was blown away, and I couldn't even find Amsoil locally. But after reading that I had already been converted.
My oil is due to be changed soon so I think I might give Amsoil a try. Lately it's been in the teens and 20's around here so what weight would you guys recommend? Also what auto parts stores carry it?

Rob R.
 
#25 ·
Amsoil? Random POS company?
hahahahaahahah
www.amsoil.com
Amsoil used to cost 20 bucks a bottle, they have been the best and until redline, and more recently motuls gaining populatrity, had no equal. Redline synth, Amsoil synth, and motul synth are probably all equal.
I used to use redline (sometimes tick in the mornings or after a long steady drive), then for a while was having a problem where my injector wasnt closing, so my oil was getting a lot of gas in it so I used cheapie Mobil 1 synth oil. I had MAD lifter tick I could hear driving with my windows up. Plus there was a thread done a while ago about people who had blown piston rings, most of the people used mobil 1.
Soooo I decided to pick up some more redline, when I stopped at a new shop (who I am now getting a lot of my future upgrades and custom work done through, they RULE) and they carry Amsoil 10w-30 synthetic TURBO FORMULATED (all the weights have different names). I changed my oil that night, no more tick. Not even on startup in the morning. So I'm hooked, plus its about 5.80 a quart.
I live in AZ so 10w-30 year round pretty much.
Oh yea, K&N filters too, I love these things. They are cheap ($5) and checker auto parts carries them!

Amsoil might be hard to find at big car parts stores, but your local hot rod or turbo performance shop might have it. If you have a turbo, be sure to get synthetic.
 
#26 ·
I use redline 10w30. Mobile 1 synthetic is not true synthetic anymore. Amsoil is also good. From what I hear redline is the best, costs a couple extra bucks though
 
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