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Baka! Baka! Baka! Baka!
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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all. Got a question. When I start up my car and it is sitting there idling I hear a tick, tick, tick noise that is fairly loud cause you can hear it, but it's not too loud that you fear the car will blow up :)

I have noticed it only happens when I am not in gear and the clutch is released (idling without pressing in clutch). If I push the clutch in (like if I were gonna shift into first or reverse) the ticking stops. Also, the ticking is not present when I am in gear.

It happens while the car is idling and around 700-1200RPMs. If I step on the gas and get it past the 1200RPMs, I don't hear it anymore.

Also, the ticking isn't always at the same volume. Sometimes when I stop to park, it is a light sound and other times it is quite evident, it is usually louder after driving the car fairly hard I beleive.

Is this normal? Any ideas what it could be if it isn't normal? Thanks everyone!!
 

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Why does everyone argue?
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throwout bearing in the tranny... not normal, but it will last a while before any major problems. this bearing is ALWAYS changed when you do a clutch-job... we all KNOW you want a performance clutch... here's your excuse ;)
 

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Baka! Baka! Baka! Baka!
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Discussion Starter #3
VR4SL said:
throwout bearing in the tranny... not normal, but it will last a while before any major problems. this bearing is ALWAYS changed when you do a clutch-job... we all KNOW you want a performance clutch... here's your excuse ;)
SWEET!!! A reason for an upgrade. Maybe my fiancee won't behead me if I tell her I have to do it and since I have to do it, I might as well spend a little more for a better part. Heheh :D

What mileage should I expect to change out my clutch at? I'm currently at 55,800 miles.

Also, what clutch should I get and how much should I expect to pay?

Thanks!!
 

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Why does everyone argue?
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the average life for a clutch about 60-70K miles, depending on how you drive, and how hard you drive.

Here are your BEST clutch choices:

RPS Stage 2- very usable on the road, better than stock...about a 500 HP handling ability. $459

RPS Stage 3- harder to get used to, (grabby) incredible clutch though, used for streetable racers most of the time. about a 750 HP handling ability. $549

Prices are from www.dynamicracing.com
 

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Baka! Baka! Baka! Baka!
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Discussion Starter #5
VR4SL said:
Here are your BEST clutch choices:

RPS Stage 2- very usable on the road, better than stock...about a 500 HP handling ability. $459
RPS Stage 3- harder to get used to, (grabby) incredible clutch though, used for streetable racers most of the time. about a 750 HP handling ability. $549
Holy crap!! Are those prices for the clutch alone?! Will there be other parts that I'll need to buy at the same time or is this prices for complete kits? And would you know how much it would cost to have an installer put the new clutch in? I am not much of a mechanic. Thanks!
 

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Why does everyone argue?
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that is a complete kit, but labor to have someone put it in will be about 4-500. BUT, I see that you are in CA, put up a post asking for assistance, I virtually gaurantee that someone near you will help you do it yourself. it is not incredibly difficult, but time consuming. it takes about 2 people 6 hours to do if there arent any stuck bolt problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
VR4SL said:
that is a complete kit, but labor to have someone put it in will be about 4-500. BUT, I see that you are in CA, put up a post asking for assistance, I virtually gaurantee that someone near you will help you do it yourself. it is not incredibly difficult, but time consuming. it takes about 2 people 6 hours to do if there arent any stuck bolt problems.
Humm, to save $400-500 I will do it myself and hopefully get some help. Humm, maybe Bryan would be willing to help. hehe. :D
 

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It's not your throw out bearing, it's the input shaft in your tranny rattling. (so i've been told) Mines done it since the day I got it and it's never gotten louder or quieter for that matter. It's not a big deal, just kinda annoying. I'm replacing the clutch and TO bearing in my VR-4 soon. If it still makes the same noise then I know for sure it's not the TO bearing. I think most people discribe a bad TO bearing as a squeek as opposed to a rattle..
 

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Baka! Baka! Baka! Baka!
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Discussion Starter #9
Humm, please let me know what happens after changing your clutch, Powelsound. Thanks.
 

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Grrr, baby, grrr
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Like Powelsound said, it could definately be the input shaft. Happened on my 97, and occasionally on my 92. If replacing the TO doesn't work, then that's definately the culprit.
 

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Hunter...
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This noise happend to me and I was asking people That I knew about it and they said it was my lifters, and to run some lightweight oil in there for about 1 week to get into all the little cracks and crevases. It worked for me, I dont hear anything now.
 

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Wicked91RT said:
This noise happend to me and I was asking people That I knew about it and they said it was my lifters, and to run some lightweight oil in there for about 1 week to get into all the little cracks and crevases. It worked for me, I dont hear anything now.

Lifter tick is a very common thing with our cars, but it doesn't go away when the clutch is depressed...
 
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