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5 Speed
91 - 92 have 2 bolt mains

Although I think the 93 VR-4 was probably its best year. It basically had everything except a 6-speed.
 

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94+ had forged crank, and I think a redesign in the pistons, not sure. Different t-case, the 4 bolt and 6 speed.
just off the top of my head
 

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Ninja Performance
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All have forged rods, 2nd gen gets forged crank none have forged pistons.

As for how many 1st gens have trashed a crank? I think it is zero

How many 1st gens have a problem with the 2 bolt? Raise your hands, I don't know of any..is there any?

Are the 2nd gen improvements nice? Sure...Are they really needed? Probably not if you stay under 500hp
 

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Boost Junkie
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:stupid:
the main disadvantage for the first gen i would have to say is the 91-92 18splines setups :thumbsdow
as far as 5spd and 6spd go, isnt the gearing in the 5spd better for dragging?
 

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Ninja Performance
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3000GT-Guy said:
:stupid:
the main disadvantage for the first gen i would have to say is the 91-92 18splines setups :thumbsdow
as far as 5spd and 6spd go, isnt the gearing in the 5spd better for dragging?
Yes, matter of fact I think Matt (dr) stated he wanted to keep a 5spd in one of his cars because the gearing is better. I may be wrong, But I think he posted that...
 

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Boost Junkie
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Imp Pwr Online said:


Yes, matter of fact I think Matt (dr) stated he wanted to keep a 5spd in one of his cars because the gearing is better. I may be wrong, But I think he posted that...
Thats what i was thinking, i'm like 90% sure that i read Matt saying that.
 

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Actually Matt has just completed a 5 speed swap in his red stealth (that's right, from a 6-speed to a 5-speed). The problem with the 6 speed is that once you start trapping high you have to go into 4th gear, which is over driven. If you have a 8250 rev limiter 3rd gear in the 5 speed will trap around 130.

I thought the '93 had a nitrated steel crank.

The '93 model year had a 4 bolt main.

I agree that the '93 is the best model year made (except I like the front facia of the 2G cars for a FMIC better).
 

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Boost Junkie
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Mark said:
Actually Matt has just completed a 5 speed swap in his red stealth (that's right, from a 6-speed to a 5-speed). The problem with the 6 speed is that once you start trapping high you have to go into 4th gear, which is over driven. If you have a 8250 rev limiter 3rd gear in the 5 speed will trap around 130.
I knew i read that somewhere, thanks Mark!
 

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Ninja Performance
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91 best........91:(

:p
 

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Formerlly Ps933kgt
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
OK so then it sounds ok

Im loooking to step up from an NA and i will probably be getting a 92. I want to get it into the high to mid 12's. So i figure on getting

Downpipe
Exhaust cutout
intake
boost controler set at around 14?
3sx pulley
reduce weight (ie spare tire,jack, back seats)


What else would i need to do to get into the mid 12's

After i get all those im going to try the 1 stock turbo and 1 not stock turbo..... any advice on why i should not do this?
 

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I think the only difference would be the 18 spline vs. the 25 spline. Sure there are other things that got upgraded, but nobody has ever broken any of them so it doesn't matter. Wasn't it half way through the '93 year that they switched over to the second gen engine upgrades? So does '93.5+ have the 25 spline?
 

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The Reality Of Tomorrow
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A repost of mine... people need to do searches.

"My $0.02 (or whatever it's worth)...

First off, I'd like to know why people think the 6-speeds are "stronger" than the 5-speeds. Are the gears stronger? Synchros? What exactly makes it stronger? I've seen it said many times that the 6-speeds are stronger, but have yet to see why. Not to say I don't believe it, but I would just like to see solid evidence. I know that the 1G aluminum transfer cases are weaker and more prone to cracking than the ones on the 2nd gens, and the 18 spline output shafts are also more prone to stripping than the 25 spline. Those I will not refute. My TC does not leak, but my output shaft is slightly worn. I think that could have been somewhat prevented had Mitsubishi required the shaft to be lubricated with some trans oil/fluid on a yearly basis, but they did not.

Also, the differences in crankshafts are not significant, IMO. The 4-bolt vs 2-bolt arguement doesn't really hold water for MOST TT 3/S's, because we just don't make enough horsepower to run into problems. I know for DSMs the different crank support setups have bearing on crankwalk, but I haven't seen many 3/Ss with that problem. I've heard of some 1G cranks warping and that may be true due to the 1st gens not being forged, but I still think it is a rare occurance and doesn't warrant being held against the 1Gs. The best thing the 2G cranks have going for them is probably longevity... they will last longer... how much longer? Who knows... and I'll bet that most of the times something else will give out before you have issues with the crank. When I was looking for a VR4 I read all about the differences and in the end I didn't think either way was a big deal. I was very close to buying a '94 VR4 w/ 81k but the seller was very flakey so I found my '92 in Oregon and had Travis (god bless 'em) test drive and the car was just pristine.

Here I am, almost 4k miles later. Aside from a slightly worn output shaft and driveshaft carrier bearings that need replacing my car is trouble free. All of my electronic gizmos work, 4ws, active exhaust, active aero, ECS, etc. Car has been very good to me.

I think that if these cars are taken well care of from day one, that they are very reliable. A lot of times many people on here are the 2nd and 3rd owners and they really don't know the history, even if it has low miles or think it has a well documented past. People are often just looking for the best deal rather than looking out for that car that has been maintained well and they get bit for it. Be meticulous in your search, and make sure you find out the car's maintenance history... drive the car or have someone drive it who knows how the car should feel/respond, and just make sure you look over the car.

Again, just my $.02"

-m
 
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