Do you know off the top of your head what items would damage the ECU? I have heard that the ISC/IAC can damage an ECU. Anything else that I need to look out for? Thanks.As stated, no programming needed. 2G ECU failure is not nearly as common as 1G. I would want to check all the output devices for problems before I installed a replacement. Make sure there isn't something going on in the car that will damage the new one.
Any output device the ECU directly controls... These are mostly items powered by the MPFI relay, and grounded by the ECU to energize them. That list includes IAC, injectors, any emission or other solenoids, VIC motor, etc.Do you know off the top of your head what items would damage the ECU? I have heard that the ISC/IAC can damage an ECU. Anything else that I need to look out for? Thanks.
Thanks for responding guys! Yeah I’ve been making assumptions based on info I’ve read and some experience I’ve had with other vehicles. I will list below the details and issues that I’ve been having.From your ignition thread and this one, seems you have a stalling problem and are making assumptions and asking questions based on them. You might have better results if you gave details on how and when car stalls for others to suggest best procedure of what and how to check.
Thanks RealMcCoy. Very informative answer, I appreciate the help!Anyt
Any output device the ECU directly controls... These are mostly items powered by the MPFI relay, and grounded by the ECU to energize them. That list includes IAC, injectors, any emission or other solenoids, VIC motor, etc.
Any such device that fails to an open circuit simply won't work, and will cause no damage. Any device that fails to a direct short, (thankfully rare) will let the smoke out of the driver circuits in the ECU.
Couple things you could do to possibly narrow this down.......The car does have a slight shimmy at idle so not sure if it’s a miss, fuel issue, ECU, etc and Idon’t know for sure if the stalling and shimmy are related.....
There are couple adaptors available to do this, one that attaches to fuel rail on engine and another that connects to fuel line where it leaves fuel filter. Since it would be needed in the interior to allow quick view when engine stalls while driving, for safety I’d think you’d want an electrical sending unit to an electrical gauge. A little more complicated the hard piped gauge under hood..........I would like to test the fuel pressure but these cars don’t have test ports. I’ve thought about intercepting the line before regulator? .......
If they understand wiring for this platform that might help, but many shops are shooting in dark because of differences in the 3S platforms from many cars. If you have a multi-meter and know how to use it, there’s several people here that can guide you with testing.Also I’ve thought about bringing the car to a shop that specializes in auto wiring to verify all connections.
Hey guys I just want to give y’all an update on my vehicle since y’all were helping me out and helping track down my issues. I bought a used ECU for about $300 and when I installed it, it made my car shake pretty bad just at idle but did throw a code for the throttle position switch. I sent that ECU back and found one from the marketplace for around $100, put it in and everything seems to be going good so far. I’ve driven it for 2.5 weeks with no intermittent stalling. I also noticed that the EGR solenoid top hose connection was broken off and that part came in today. I’m gonna change that and keep rolling! I appreciate all your help, thanks!!Yeah it looks like C103 & C104 have definitely been replaced. My only concern there would be that one leg of C104 looks like solder didn’t flow out right, which might indicate a cold solder joint. Can’t say for sure since the solder ball looks larger that the trace circle and outside edges of solder ball would’ve been on board surface & sealer area not allowing it to flow out correctly. Just too much solder to say for sure, but if cold solder joint that could cause the symptoms you’re experiencing.
Can’t tell about other two capacitors they might be original because solder is smaller and flowed out correctly. Also they’re closer to board which is more like factory installation.
Unfortunately a capacitor can fail without showing external signs, looking at them will only allow you to see failures when they're bulged or burnt. Of course if leaking electrolyte that can also be seen.