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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I am currently in the market for a VR4 ... I am planning on modding the engine but i dont know what the general order of mods is ... What mods are first? What mods increase performance the most? What is the safest and most efficiant order to mod you car? My goal is to be able to hang/pull basic american muscle ... Vettes, T/A's & SS's, Cobra's, and Ricers. I dont want to blow my car up either.

Thanks alot for your help!!!

(P.S. my neighbor is a rich shit, that owns a 2000 C5 ... he is a head strong man that is a control freak about everything ... and thinks that he owns our little neighborhood ... I wanna be able to whoop his ass, he doesnt have any mods except for all options possible and a chip)

Thats my goal!!!
 

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1. k&n fipk

2. manual boost controller (or electric depending on cash flow)
NOT past 15psi without fuel system work( injectors, fuel
controller such as s-afc, or ARC-II, upgraded fuel pump
you can estimate about 10 hp for every psi of boost you
increase

3. down pipe, cat-back exhaust, and if your not so enviormentally
friendly, gut the pre-cats(this will help the turbos spool quicker)



these should get you somewhere in the neigborhood of where you want to be.
 

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Sence you haven't bought a VR-4 yet I must advise you to buy a 94+ model. Hear are teh reasons why.

1- The 94+ cars have a 4 bolt pattern bearing girdle. This increases engine strength.

2- The 94+ have a 6 speed transaxle AND higher over all gear ratio which means faster acceleration. The sixth gear does wonders for gas milage on the highway.

3- The 91-93 have problems with their lifters and almost all end up getting new ones. This means less money for mods. The 91-93 lifters have a smaller oil hole and are replaced with the 94+ lifters that have a larger oil hole.

4- The 94+ cars peak torque occurs at a lower rpm and is greater than that of the 91-93 cars. 91-93: >300 ft.lbs @ 4000 rpms compaired to the 94+ cars of 315 ft.lbs @ 2500 rpms. Faster spool up makes a faster car.

5- 94+ cars have more powerful brakes from the factory.

6- 91-93 cars also can get problems with spun bearings resulting in a rod knocking or some other very bad problem where as the 94+ cars seem to have less of a problem.

I'm not trying to trash talk the 1st gens out there. I'm just trying to make it easier for you to get what you want with out any surprises along the way. All cars reguardless of year also have a recall on the brake hoses as well. Look into it at the dealer when you buy your car and see if it has been done. My car is 8 years old and hasn't had it done. I have made arrangments for next week though. Check out Jeff's site. www.stealth316.com. He started with a 1st gen. Now his car is mad fast. He has also done major engine work includeing 2nd gen lifters, 4 bolt pattern girdle (which requires a lot more parts than the girdle, like the 2nd gen block for one), and bored it out. You'll have an easier time with a 94+ car. Make sure the turbos still work and take it to a shop and look up it yourself for fluid leaks. Transmition and stearing rack sepage is normal for an older car. So don't be too picky. But do make sure all the gears in the transaxle engage smoothly and it doesn't smoke when you first start it up. Don't buy the car if it does.

The first mods you will probable want to do are as follows

1- Clutch and flywheel. They tend to go out between 80-120k. Depending on the driving habbits of previous owners. The flywheel is your choice. It does help you accel faster off the line but not so as speed increases. A lightened flywheel will also allow more vibration into your transaxle possibley reducing it's life.

2- Blow Off Valve and turbo timer. The BOV will make the turbos more responcive and both mods will increase the life of your turbos.

3- Gauges. Autometer has affordable accurate gauges. You will deffinately need a boost gauge. Other things to consider are an exhaust gas temp., fuel pres., and wide band oxygen sensor (also known as an air/fuel ratio meter). These will help you adjust your next mods to their optimum settings.

4- Boost controller. You can raise your max boost level to 14.5 psi from the stock 8.7 psi.

5- ARC/ARCII. Or some other air ratio controller that replaces the stock MAS (mass airflow sensor). The stock MAS can't compensate the engine for boost levels above 14.5 psi.

6- Fuel system and ignition upgrade. The Supra fuel pump is a direct drop in and the best for your money as well as the best with out upgrade your fuel lines also. Bigger fuel injectors also should be used at this point. A fuel controller like APEX'i's S-AFC can also help if don't want the ARC or ARCII. Get yourself an ignition system that can self retard ignition timeing as much as possible so you don't blow your engine. A dew guys have done this...

7- Intercooler/turbos/exhaust/intakes. Big think intercoolers, larger turbos with ball bearings, bigger exhaust like the ones from GReddy or HKS, intakes such as K&N or HKS.

8- Still got money left over? Try sending your runners to Extrude for honeing, getting an underdrive pulley set, water injection, lighter pistons, valves, cams, and rods, balance and blue print your engine, put in race gas, and then go run sub 10s so all of us hear at 3Si can finally brag about it.

And for Gods sake don't use less than 92 octane pump gas......
 

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Discussion Starter #4
TIGHT

thanks for your help guys ... this is what i have gathered so far as what i am gonna do first ...

1st: exhaust and intake, boost controller, boost gauge, BOV. and fuel system (supra pump and bigger injectors)

2nd: better clutch and fly wheel
3rd: i will save my money and keep my car street legal and run lower than 10s ... that is my goal ... fastest street legal 3/S ... hopefully my career works out and i roll in some mad cash ...

thanks alot
 

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Just so you're clear here:

If you upgrade the fuel injectors you will need a fuel controller at the same time. As an example if you put in 550 injectors and no fuel controller the ECU will assume that you have 360 injectors (stock) and will operate them in accordance with that assumption. The result will be dumping fuel into the engine at an unecessary rate and causing the car to run badly.

In order to tune the fuel controller you will need some way to instrument the car. On a 95 or later you might be able to get a pocket logger (not sure it can tell you everything you'll need) but you'll probably still want to have EGT and A/F gauges.

Point is your list of 1st things comes up short if change injectors.

Chris
1994 VR4
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I got my car

I got my car ... 1996 black VR4 ... it has some problems but minor problems ... it need s new clutch ... and a new drive shaft ... and and the 60 k service done ...
so i am gonna get a new clutch and a do the 60k service
.... what should i do after this .. i am thinking exhaust intake and a boost controller ...
 

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get your driveshaft from shovel. DO NOT put in a stock clutch.

after going through all my mods and seeing other people run against me, here is my advice: of course this depends on how fast you want to go and how much $$ you have to spend.

gut all cats
k&n (or knock-off)
greedy BOV
boost gauge
a'f gauge
manual boost controler (or electronic if you have the $$)
intrax springs
apexi safc
450 OR 550 injectors (depends on how much $$ you have)
supra fuel pump

that should do it. You will have no problem disgracing your c5 neighbor :D :D :D

how much $$ are you looking to spend? that would help me out a lot.
 
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