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Hey guys, i have a 94 base 3000GT, i have a borla cat back exhaust and im purchasing a Weapon-R intake, i know the performance mods for base and SL's are limited but what other things can i improve on? Thanks in advance.
Jayson
 

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An underdrive pulley is supposed to add about 15 hp, by reducing the power consumption of the other pulleys. I think that's about $120 without installation. Installing it might cost another $100. You could upgrade spark plugs and get 8.5mm racing wires. Magnecore wires are $120 for the set for our cars. I have talked to a few people, and have been told that our engines can easily handle 75 shot NOS, which isn't very much for a NOS system, but 75hp does make a huge difference. It's about $500-$600 for the kit. If you don't mind breaking a huge emission law, gut your cat and precats to improve your exhaust. Well, maybe leave the precats, and only gut the cat, cause that will make your exhaust almost free flow, and I tried my car out free flow, and it lost a lot of low end power, but kinda made up for it in the high end. So just gutting the main cat should keep it ok. Well, that's about all I can think of right now.


Jason
92 Stealth R/T TT
 

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thanks alot man, you gave me some idea's. I dunno about the NOS kit but the gutting the cat, pulleys and wires sound good. Thanks again
 

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Look at getting your intake plenum ported. You can always port your heads too. Also if Brian ever gets that ram air hood of his out for the holidays then that would help a bit. You can always find a way to take weight out of the car by losing the jack and the spare tire, tow hooks, and maybe even leaving you windsheild washer fluid only a 1/4 full. Also you might be able to use 10mm solid core spark plug wires, might help you widen the gap on the plugs for a better burn. I'm not sure they will fit however, but I'm gonna give it a try myself. Also a light weight flywheel will free up a few HP, not much though. Light weight rims would be good too as far as improving the look and reducing weight. Well I guess thats all I can think of right now. If hondas can can do it so can you too. No reason why the base and SL models can't be toward 300hp, if a market ever develops for it....................corey
 
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Correct me if I am wrong but I don't think the N/A has any precats.

LineNoiz
 

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Ok, it's almost christmas and all people just want to throw out money out of the window !

Plugs and wire :
On an NA ? Are you nuts ? Only change the wires if yours are broken and then the aftermarket ones are an alternative to the expensive stock ones. But one will gain ABSOLUTELY NOTHING.
Also "upgrading" plugs made me laughing. PLEASE think ... there is no change in the ignition, nor the timing, nor the fuel or even more air (i.e. any charger system). I agree with a proper gapping but upgrade, NO WAY ! Even on a TT there is no need for this stuff.

Pulleys :
No, no, and again NOOOOO. There is only one underdrive pulley with dampener available. Damn expensive and until one shows me the dyno sheet you'll not gain anything. I did this mod on the Z28 to get rid of the steering pump whine. Gain or even loss was in the typical the dyno tolerances. If you use such cheap aluminum pulleys you will run the car in danger of uneven worn bearings of the crankshaft. The list of ugly sign may be much longer and I'd say not doing the work until you think 10hp are worth $450.

Removing the cat will reduce backpressure as the stock exhaust used the cat for the calculation. Yes it may free up some ponies in the top but you'll loose in the low end (torque). This is the same with the Borla exhaust as it sounds faster. The most gain from the Borla is getting rid of the weight and stainless steel quality.

Unfortunately, mods on an NA are only appearance wise until Brian offers a turbo upgrade. BTW, also putting an aftermarket air filter into the car may not be of any gain. This because your old foam filter was already clogged and then you felt more performance. Anyways, the filter is the best mod for sure.

There was also an electrical Supercharger tested and it added about 5hp for about $300 or so. Yes this works but .. is it worth the money ?

Sorry, but these are the facts and never believe in an advertisement. Get facts like dyno figures or 1/4 mile results on the same day without and with the mod. But, sorry, only the Electric Supercharger was tested seriously and the dyno chart was given to the public.
 
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hey Roger,
Good info. The only part im interrested in is the Electric Supercharger you were speaking of...Who makes it? Is 4-5Hp worth the money? Not to me...but am still interrested in the information on it.. Let me know...thanks
CLINT
 

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I think it's called a turbo-zet, I dunno it sounds like a lot of jack for 5 hp!
 

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Hey Roger, wires can make a difference. Here in my hand I have the july/august issue of grass roots motorsports, and on page 101, they have an article on Stock Tips. Under the ignition heading, they replaced BRAND NEW stock wires on a BMW 318ti with magnecore wires and dyno-ed it showing an increase of 2 HP AT THE WHEELS. Same thing on a Neon, except 3 HP AT THE WHEELS. But the CRX they replaced wires on did not show an increase in HP, but the horsepower curve was smoother and didn't fall away at the top end. It goes on to say that "In testing with a variety of cars at our Dyno Day events, we've found that nearly every vehicle benefited from having stock wires replaced with quality aftermarket pieces from companies like magnecore or ignition equipment. We found consistent power jumps in the two- to three- percent range." They weren't just trying to sell a product either because they didn't mention the wires in the neon or CRX, only that they were performance wires. Sorry to burst your bubble. Alot of other professional people think performance wires are useless too. But we all learn something new everyday!

Jason
 

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oh yeah roger, I had an R/T NA and I took out the cat and put in a test pipe. Just because you lower the back pressure doesn't mean you automatically lose low end power, You only need so much back pressure, and taking out the cat leaves enough. I tried it out for a little bit with the cat totally removed, making the exhaust pipe end right under the driver's seat, and yes, I did experience alot of low end power loss, with a significant high end gain. I on;y wanted to try it out this way for fun, before I put the test pipe in, and I had no intention of leaving it like that. It was too loud anyway. Since he probably doesn't have the resonator and mini-muffler left from the stock exhaust, he'll lose a LITTLE bit of low end, but it'll be well worth it from the mid and high end gain.


Jason
92 Stealth R/T TT
 

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Discussion Starter #11
so do you think i should get new wires and gut my cat? If so, which cat are we talking about, there is alot of crap under there and i dont know which one you guys mean. thanks again

Jayson
'94 3000GT
 

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If you go with magnecore wires, make sure you don't pay more than $120 for the set. Many places offer them for that much, but I've heard you might be able to get them cheaper. The main cat is the biggest hunk of metal connected to the pipe other than your muffler. In order to gut it, you have to be able to get it off. This is the hardest part if you don't have the facilities at home like I don't. I got lucky and found a guy at midas to make me a pipe that would match up with the flanges that my cat connected to for $80. And he removed my muffler so he could match up the angle of the flanges right, and when he put it back on, he didn't tighten the bolts all the way so I could take it off at home. You might be able to do it that way, and since you only take off the cat, you can put it back on when you need to pass emissions. Gutting the cat is permenant, and to pass emissions, you'll need to put a new one in, which will probably cost alot more than $80. If you do decide you want to gut the cat, all you need to do is get it out, and hammer, chisle, bite, scratch or anything else to break away the honeycomb material. I had a big cross style lug nut wrench with the hub cap remover blade at on of the ends, and used that to put holes into the stuff, and broke away the center until I could break away the edges. It took a long time, and it makes a mess. If you get that done, then you're good to go. Just put it back on. That's about it for that.


Jason
 

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thanks alot Jason, i think i will do the wires and i will see if i can find someone to make me that pipe. I dont wanna gut my cat cause that is permanent and i dont want to buy another one. Thanks again for your help.
 

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Guys, please note that a dyno session to another can easily result in a 10hp difference !!! This is within the range as it is a percentage of the peak measured. For the wires, what do you think will be better with aftermarket ones ? And DO NOT post any crap what they stamped on their box because it's simply not true. Our wires do have a high resistance, the same high as the Magnecors. I swapped them in and out (yes I can do this within 40 minutes now) and even at 17psi there was null, zero, nada difference. Therefore replacing the wires is only good if the stock ones do have a problem. But mostly the problem is dirt or water and little cracks in the shielding. Of course, then you think the new wires are making hell of a difference, haha.

For the exhaust, getting rid of the cat is ok but then you need a tunable muffler to get the best result. A bigger restriction will cause more backpressure and increase low end. Less restriction causes more high end power and this is why the created the active exhaust on some TT models.

The Electric Supercharger is not the one mentioned (although it works too) but you may search the Team3S Database for the specific information (look for supercharger or so)

Guys, I can only say the same as I always do : The package plays the music !
Filter, new air intake path to the TB (must be designed), cold air intake (this is NOT RAM-Air), headers (must be designed), straight exhaust with good balanced muffler(s), head porting (exhaust little intake), valve train, more air (electric SC, turbo system), more fuel (if you got more air), pump, injectors.

Now put all the stuff together and count how much this costs, and how big the gain will be. It is much more expensive than the mods for a TT to get the same power and sorry, it's just not worth the money. NOS is the cheapest (a lill dangerous in my point of view) way to get more but you must deliver the fuel too.

Ok, I think the only mod that it making sense is the turbo upgrade from GT PRO when it will hit the market (this is not written down yet). And when something went south you'll be able to do some headwork, better rings, pistons and more at the same time of the rebuild. A lott damn hassle ... still worth the money ?
 
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