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Discussion Starter #1
The car is in okay condition. 90000 miles. I bought it two years ago not really understanding how hard it was to find parts for it. There is a large split in center of drivers seat. Leather is fading on both seats. Most, if not all of the clear coat is gone. 4 in. diameter rust spot on front right thin panel on roof. The driver door lock has a dead wire somewhere. Can still be locked/unlocked with key. Remote start, window tint, and new speakers installed. I can provife warranty and recieptsfor any of the new additions. Original stereo broke so i no longer have that. The biggest problem is the weather stripping that goes around the windshield, for the sealing of the hard top, needs replaced as it leaks on both driver and passenger window. Mechanical is great. No problems there. Spark plugs, all of them, that was a PIA but not as bad as finding wearher stripping, were just changed about 2000 miles ago.
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Discussion Starter #4
I paid $19,000 and some change for it but its clearly lost value due to the rust spot, the weather stripping, the dead wire to the door lock, and the paint. The new speakers, window tint, and remote start all together are about $2,000. I found someone who quoted me on the weather stripping at one point for $1,100. Being that it's fairly rare and still runs really well i was thinking something around $18,000. To be honest though, I don't know what they are worth. I saw a mint slightly upgraded one for $31,000 on here and I have seen them go for $12,000 as well. Kbb doesn't list anything in any of the categories.
 

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I was just curious not interested.I wouldn’t buy 1 due to parts being hard to find and costing a arm and a leg.Good luck with the sale though.
 

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I'm sorry.
I am the FIRST one to back a Spyder owner, but you are grossly overestimating the value of your car.
The interior is toast.
The exterior is about the same.
You have provided little to no info on the condition of the engine, transmission, suspension, tires...etc.

You installed new speakers for a sound system that doesn't work?
You installed a remote start. A good feature. Curious how you got around the manual transmission issue...
The tint was probably a necessity given your location.

Mr. Bull (above) is sadly correct that Spyder specific parts are very hard to find.
Curious to know where you found the weatherstripping....

You changed the spark plugs ("all of them"), has the rest of the 60K service been done?
Electrical issues?

Maybe some soul searching is necessary...

Bob.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm sorry.
I am the FIRST one to back a Spyder owner, but you are grossly overestimating the value of your car.
The interior is toast.
The exterior is about the same.
You have provided little to no info on the condition of the engine, transmission, suspension, tires...etc.

You installed new speakers for a sound system that doesn't work?
You installed a remote start. A good feature. Curious how you got around the manual transmission issue...
The tint was probably a necessity given your location.

Mr. Bull (above) is sadly correct that Spyder specific parts are very hard to find.
Curious to know where you found the weatherstripping....

You changed the spark plugs ("all of them"), has the rest of the 60K service been done?
Electrical issues?

Maybe some soul searching is necessary...

Bob.
The only problem with the interior is the rip in one seat and the fading on both. Dash, floor boards, and everything else in the interior is in good shape including back seat.

Exterior is a problem yes.

Like I said engine runs great. There's nothing to provide for it cause nothing is wrong with it. Same for transmission. I think it had a new clutch installed a year or two before I bought it.

Never said the sound system didn't work. The old stereo deck broke so i had a new one installed and one speaker blew so I had all of the speakers done as well.

Remote start was done buy a shop and it has to be primed with the ebrake on before shutting the car off. Takes about 10 seconds to prime. I didnt find the weatherstripping, was told by a body shop that they found it, but I never took them up on the service cause it was more than I could afford at the time.

I said I changed all of the spark plugs because when I went to do it I found out that a lot of times on transverse engines the rear plugs don't get changed because it's too difficult. It was more of a joke about how that happens.

As for electrical issues. I said in the post that the driver door lock doesn't work. There is a dead wire between it and the passenger door. The passenger door still works when the lock button is pressed on the faub or on the door. But driver door lock is getting no power. All lights function fine. Heater, A/C, hard top.

I feel like your soul searching comment is pretty uncalled for. I paid $19,000 for it. After subtracting cost of most of the problems, not factoring time to fix, then adding the cost of the minor upgrades, window tint or not, it was only 350, I still feel like a good price is $18,000 max. I'm not adverse to negotiating.

If it's overpriced I apologize but it was based off my own experience with how much I paid for it vs what happened to it vs what I did to it. As it is hard to price these I tried to go for what I felt would be a good deal for both parties and my reasons for that.
 

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OK, I didn't want to go here, but your post made me feel the need to...

Back in 2001 (yes 19 years ago), I paid $27,000 for my Spyder (it had a little over 40K on the clock).
I later found out it was #3 off the production line.
Over the last 19 years (the first two of which it saw Ohio winters) I have put close to 80,000 miles on it.
It has been to at least a halt dozen NG's all over the East Coast.

A picture from the last NG I attended in Indy...(several years ago) It STILL looks the same.


A picture I took last week for a friend who was curious about my BOV setup....


(please forgive the tape on my IC pipes, the B grade Cianci hood I bought years ago, sags a bit, so I try to keep the painted hood from getting marred).

I have a self installed Remote Top Operational System (developed be a genius in California) which allows for remote start (with a foolproof neutral safety circuit), and remote full top operational functionality.

Upgraded stereo system (Kenwood), SBC -iD Electronic boost controller, upgraded 18" stock 6 spoke chrome wheels.

I replaced that weatherstrip years ago at a pretty steep price. Recently replaced lower outer window door mouldings.

Maintenance is fully up to date

The list goes on....

Even with the pricing for quality 3000gts/Stealths going up slightly, I think I would be lucky to get what I paid for the car (even though I think it is worth more).

I am not bragging here, just trying to show you that as much as we both want it to be so, our cars are just not worth that much....

Bob.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
OK, I didn't want to go here, but your post made me feel the need to...

Back in 2001 (yes 19 years ago), I paid $27,000 for my Spyder (it had a little over 40K on the clock).
I later found out it was #3 off the production line.
Over the last 19 years (the first two of which it saw Ohio winters) I have put close to 80,000 miles on it.
It has been to at least a halt dozen NG's all over the East Coast.

A picture from the last NG I attended in Indy...(several years ago) It STILL looks the same.


A picture I took last week for a friend who was curious about my BOV setup....


(please forgive the tape on my IC pipes, the B grade Cianci hood I bought years ago, sags a bit, so I try to keep the painted hood from getting marred).

I have a self installed Remote Top Operational System (developed be a genius in California) which allows for remote start (with a foolproof neutral safety circuit), and remote full top operational functionality.

Upgraded stereo system (Kenwood), SBC -iD Electronic boost controller, upgraded 18" stock 6 spoke chrome wheels.

I replaced that weatherstrip years ago at a pretty steep price. Recently replaced lower outer window door mouldings.

Maintenance is fully up to date

The list goes on....

Even with the pricing for quality 3000gts/Stealths going up slightly, I think I would be lucky to get what I paid for the car (even though I think it is worth more).

I am not bragging here, just trying to show you that as much as we both want it to be so, our cars are just not worth that much....

Bob.
I dont know why you wouldn't want to go "there." This was much more informative and more appreciated. My original post maybe should have been more inquisitive so I could figure out how much they are going for. I had a little bit of mouth before brain problem there. Apologies.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
OK, I didn't want to go here, but your post made me feel the need to...

Back in 2001 (yes 19 years ago), I paid $27,000 for my Spyder (it had a little over 40K on the clock).
I later found out it was #3 off the production line.
Over the last 19 years (the first two of which it saw Ohio winters) I have put close to 80,000 miles on it.
It has been to at least a halt dozen NG's all over the East Coast.

A picture from the last NG I attended in Indy...(several years ago) It STILL looks the same.


A picture I took last week for a friend who was curious about my BOV setup....


(please forgive the tape on my IC pipes, the B grade Cianci hood I bought years ago, sags a bit, so I try to keep the painted hood from getting marred).

I have a self installed Remote Top Operational System (developed be a genius in California) which allows for remote start (with a foolproof neutral safety circuit), and remote full top operational functionality.

Upgraded stereo system (Kenwood), SBC -iD Electronic boost controller, upgraded 18" stock 6 spoke chrome wheels.

I replaced that weatherstrip years ago at a pretty steep price. Recently replaced lower outer window door mouldings.

Maintenance is fully up to date

The list goes on....

Even with the pricing for quality 3000gts/Stealths going up slightly, I think I would be lucky to get what I paid for the car (even though I think it is worth more).

I am not bragging here, just trying to show you that as much as we both want it to be so, our cars are just not worth that much....

Bob.
Also can you tell me a way to get the weather stripping. Cause one of the deals with my wife is if I can find the qeather stripping for less than $1500 I can keep it.
 

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No apologies necessary.
I really wish I could have offered a more positive review.
I don't want you to get nothing for something you paid a LOT for.
I just wanted you to see another "example" of whats out there in the Spyder world.

I have seen a few Spyder VR4's on Bring a Trailer. The prices they fetched were almost embarrassing.

Today, I saw a 2009 (?) Acura NSX-T go for over 80K. Astonishing.

Again, please, I really want you to get what you can.
"We" Mitsubishi owners, unfortunately, picked the wrong platform for PROFIT.

Bob.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
No apologies necessary.
I really wish I could have offered a more positive review.
I don't want you to get nothing for something you paid a LOT for.
I just wanted you to see another "example" of whats out there in the Spyder world.

I have seen a few Spyder VR4's on Bring a Trailer. The prices they fetched were almost embarrassing.

Today, I saw a 2009 (?) Acura NSX-T go for over 80K. Astonishing.

Again, please, I really want you to get what you can.
"We" Mitsubishi owners, unfortunately, picked the wrong platform for PROFIT.

Bob.
I really would rather just fix the car and keep it. The weather stripping has given me no end of headaches though and is the main reason I am selling it.
 

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Weather stripping.
Years ago, there was a gentleman in the Chicago area (I believe), went by the handle "SpydermanSpyderman" on Ebay.
He had several Spyders and was willing to part some of them.
I was lucky enough to contact him and procure a mildly used top weatherstrip. I think I paid < $150 shipped. Seemed fair at the time.

I haven't seen him on Ebay for a while, so I have no clue if he is still selling (I think NOT).

I have ZERO other leads for some of the sought after parts....I wish I did.

Bob.
 

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I am EXTREMELY sorry.
I should have mentioned that if you want you can join our group of Spyder owners at:


Perhaps one of them can point you in the direction of a new top weatherstrip.

Bob.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Weather stripping.
Years ago, there was a gentleman in the Chicago area (I believe), went by the handle "SpydermanSpyderman" on Ebay.
He had several Spyders and was willing to part some of them.
I was lucky enough to contact him and procure a mildly used top weatherstrip. I think I paid < $150 shipped. Seemed fair at the time.

I haven't seen him on Ebay for a while, so I have no clue if he is still selling (I think NOT).

I have ZERO other leads for some of the sought after parts....I wish I did.

Bob.
All good. Covid has made getting a hold of the one guy that told me he could get the weather stripping almost impossible. I have another body shop looking in to it right now though. I tried calling the original manufacturer out of Canada but they never answer and their website is in French. Hope is all I got I guess.
 

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Just for grins, I checked Ebay and sure enough, SpydermanSpyderman is still selling stuff :)
Being both seller and a buyer, I took the liberty of sending Gary (my old brain kicked in overnight and I remembered his name, Gary Cooper) a message asking if he had any top weatherstrips available for sale.
Not sure if I'll hear back from him, but it was worth a shot....

Bob.
 

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Oh, and if you get a chance, PM me that website address (the one in French).
My browser has a translator function, so I may be able to help figure out how to reach out to them as well...

Bob.
 

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I see this car on youtube with the headline "I bought the cheapest VR4 Spyder in the country!".

This car is perfect for someone who can do paint. Its got potential, but for the right buyer to sink money into this its a $8-10k car, probably closer to $8k since noone can finance it and it'll be cash only. Its got things going for it that its running and driving.
 

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I don't disagree with you, but I think there is more work involved than you think.

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THIS ^^^ is likely the damage you will find under that bubbled windshield header.
Sadly, they did the POOREST of jobs of treating/insulating that area I have ever seen on an automobile.
If you were not diligent with your car care from day 1, only bad things can happen.

It CAN be fixed, but it will not be easy nor cheap.

Bob.

EDIT: And to the OP, THIS could be a big part of the reason for your leaks (although I can't clearly see the entire weatherstrip....
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I don't disagree with you, but I think there is more work involved than you think.

View attachment 289281

View attachment 289282

THIS ^^^ is likely the damage you will find under that bubbled windshield header.
Sadly, they did the POOREST of jobs of treating/insulating that area I have ever seen on an automobile.
If you were not diligent with your car care from day 1, only bad things can happen.

It CAN be fixed, but it will not be easy nor cheap.

Bob.

EDIT: And to the OP, THIS could be a big part of the reason for your leaks (although I can't clearly see the entire weatherstrip....
Sorry it took so long to respond. I spent about 2 hours last night scrolling through posts on the group you linked me too and couldn't find anything other than they don't make the qeather stripping anymore. Saw a bunch more stuff including the ridiculous amount of rust that is probably under my windshield header. Called a 3d printing place and they said that 3d printing can't do weather stripping.

I'll search the forums here cause that is where I found the website that was in french. My browser probably has a translator as well so I will give that a go and link it for others to check out.
 
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