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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently made the mistake of thinking that I could redo the clear coat on my hood using just a spray can clear coat. Ended up significantly screwing it up and it's in rough condition, so I took it to an auto paint shop, they quoted me 1000 just to repaint the hood. I essentially arrived at the conclusion that I should buy the gear and do it myself, because it'll be significantly cheaper, and I'll have the tools to repaint the rest of the car as well, because while the rest doesn't look bad, it could definitely look better. So what I'm asking is, will I have all the tools needed?

Air gun (any suggestions for the best option)
6 gal air compressor (can also just rent a larger one, but I don't wanna outright buy anything bigger than a 6 gal)
B34 paint (where would I be able to find a place that mixes paints?)
clear coat (any suggestions here either?)
800 and 1000 grit sandpaper (should I go grittier or no?)
body filler for some super small (smaller than a dime) rust spots I'd like to deal with
respirator

I have a fan to replace the air, but I'll just be doing it in my garage.
I'm going to remove the hood so that I don't have to cover the rest of the car
I'll take everything out of the garage

Am I missing anything?
Thanks in advance :)
 

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Panama Green,mostly stock with 13G's, Oohnoo SMIC, money pit
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Your in way over your head.

If your asking the questions you are...... paint is basecoat / clear coat. Catalized. read isocyanate So you SHOULD be using supplied air to breath unless you want this to be the last time you paint. Again, if you have never done it you need to be around someone that has so you can learn.

Find a guy who does this on the side and see what he will charge you.

A pint is about $60 for the base coat. A cheap quart of clear is about $55 Give or take, I haven't bought any in a few months so I'm not up on the prices + get a different price from work. Then there is reducer, primer, sandpaper and all that stuff.

P
 

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Your in way over your head.

If your asking the questions you are...... paint is basecoat / clear coat. Catalized. read isocyanate So you SHOULD be using supplied air to breath unless you want this to be the last time you paint. Again, if you have never done it you need to be around someone that has so you can learn.

Find a guy who does this on the side and see what he will charge you.

A pint is about $60 for the base coat. A cheap quart of clear is about $55 Give or take, I haven't bought any in a few months so I'm not up on the prices + get a different price from work. Then there is reducer, primer, sandpaper and all that stuff.

P
I bought "stuff" to be able to do "minor" painting (on my Stealth) , but I quickly realized I was over my head (still have a few brand new guns and filters).
Like Paul said you need LOTS of air, and a super clean area to paint. Anything less is a breeding ground for dirt and dust (and then LOTS of sanding).
A fan and a facemask ain't going to cut it....

Bob.
 

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You should really ask on reddit, theres a sub called "autopaint" Idk anything about painting a car but from browsing that subreddit for years one thing ive learned is that its almost always more expensive to buy the equipment you need. I guess if you are planning on respraying the entire car then maybe it might be worth. Does the entire car really need paint or does it just need to be polished?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Your in way over your head.

If your asking the questions you are...... paint is basecoat / clear coat. Catalized. read isocyanate So you SHOULD be using supplied air to breath unless you want this to be the last time you paint. Again, if you have never done it you need to be around someone that has so you can learn.

Find a guy who does this on the side and see what he will charge you.

A pint is about $60 for the base coat. A cheap quart of clear is about $55 Give or take, I haven't bought any in a few months so I'm not up on the prices + get a different price from work. Then there is reducer, primer, sandpaper and all that stuff.

P
I had already come to the realization that it may be difficult to do, but the problem is that I don't have 1k just to paint the hood of my car professionally. I can post some pictures later when I'm at my car, and if you think that it'll last for a little while without rusting worse than maybe I'll let it be for now, but I live in MN and I'm worried that winter will take a toll on the hood if it doesn't have a clear coat on it.
But what I'm getting from you is: get somebody who's done this before, and a clean place to do it. What should I use to clear out the air if not a fan? I also saw somebody else mention a paint filter, so I know to keep that in mind. Anything else I'm missing?
I may start with something smaller, fender or something, and try to get it down, but the hood is in rough shape and I don't want it to worsen.
Thanks
 

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There's only one way to learn, go for it. If this is your first time, start with something smaller so you can practice. Or scrounge some old panels off a local auto dismantler.

I personally started with a pair of wing mirrors and slowly worked my way up to doing whole vehicles.

Air gun - anything gravity fed will be fine for what you're doing, don't waste your money on a "good" gun, they all do the same thing.
Air compressor - Get the cheapest Chineseiest one you can find, 50 litre minimum with a water trap.
Paint - get it from the paint shop that quoted the job. Or find a local automotive paint supplier. Go for the expensive clear coat.
Sandpaper - 600, 1200, 1500 wet & dry. Consider buying a cheap air powered DA sander and sanding discs, you'll thank me later.
Rust spots - ??? Stone chips? Need pics. A glazing filler will probably do the job, alternatively you could feather the edges and go over the area with a filler primer.
Respirator - I use one of these:


You'll also need thinners and hardener that are compatible with the paint you're using, wax & grease remover and a tack cloth. You'll need some rubbing compound, two grades should do the job, I like the 3M Perfect-it range.

Sweep the floor before you start. You don't need a fan, just get out as soon as you can after putting a coat on, don't hang around to watch the paint dry. Once you're finished and it's flashed off, open the doors.

Don't overthink it. Don't be put off by those who say you can't do it. It's not that hard.
 

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Sorry to disagree here.

I didn't say its that hard I said its dangerous. Your telling the guy just go for it. Read up on ISO exposure. Spraying in the garage with a half face respirator is unsafe. ( Before you say something Yes, I know base may not have ISO in it Mine does as I catalyze my base )., If you add hardener, activator or whatever they call it you will have iso exposure and you MUST know how to work safely. And we didnt even talk about lead sanding the old paint off, solvent disposal etc.

If he hasn't done it before does he understand to be 100% clean shaven? Does he know how to do a proper fit test? How about half face VS full face? Do you know negative pressure respirators are only recommended in a few situations spraying anything with hardener where there is already good ventilation?

All those guys you see on TV are either spraying in a downdraft booth with great ventilation or they will have asthma from ISO exposure. Look at videos of Jon Kosmoski spraying- he is using a full face. supplied air for the finish coats...the half face pnly for the primer and even then I think he has a set of goggles on one of the best painters IMHO

Don't believe its that easy because you saw Will on Graveyard cars with his full beard spraying. All this made for TV b.s. He WILL have asthma from ISO. Read up on it !

Yes, I spray with a half mask on occasion but its rare.

In a garage lots of paint gets blown back at you.You have no clue about how much ISO is in the air and it can easily overwhelm a charcoal filter. Now what? - you smell paint- sure keep going because you have bought all that paint and its only one time right? What are the chances? Same as jacking up a car and not using a jack stand. Maybe today will be that day.

I have had to change my disposable clear cover over my full face every coat because it gets covered in little mist droplets. That is going right into your eyes and all over your face wearing a half mask.

There are guys doing this on the side that will teach people. GO to some local dealers and walk around back to the service bays and grab a tech or ask somebody in parts if there is a guy doing it for a few extra $$. I agree 1K is a lot. But you wll have at least 500 in it no sweat just buying materials.

I spray at work and at home. You need a big compressor. Something in the range of + 20CFM and a drier. or your just putting hot wet air in the paint. 6 months and you got pin head bubbles in the finish.

I had to learn like everyone but you need to do it safely. Most people spraying on the weekend at home are doing it wrong and if your lucky you will only end up with a splitting headache from solvent exposure.

If you want to learn about body and paint Autobodystore Forums

P
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Sorry to disagree here.

I didn't say its that hard I said its dangerous. Your telling the guy just go for it. Read up on ISO exposure. Spraying in the garage with a half face respirator is unsafe. ( Before you say something Yes, I know base may not have ISO in it Mine does as I catalyze my base )., If you add hardener, activator or whatever they call it you will have iso exposure and you MUST know how to work safely. And we didnt even talk about lead sanding the old paint off, solvent disposal etc.

If he hasn't done it before does he understand to be 100% clean shaven? Does he know how to do a proper fit test? How about half face VS full face? Do you know negative pressure respirators are only recommended in a few situations spraying anything with hardener where there is already good ventilation?

All those guys you see on TV are either spraying in a downdraft booth with great ventilation or they will have asthma from ISO exposure. Look at videos of Jon Kosmoski spraying- he is using a full face. supplied air for the finish coats...the half face pnly for the primer and even then I think he has a set of goggles on one of the best painters IMHO

Don't believe its that easy because you saw Will on Graveyard cars with his full beard spraying. All this made for TV b.s. He WILL have asthma from ISO. Read up on it !

Yes, I spray with a half mask on occasion but its rare.

In a garage lots of paint gets blown back at you.You have no clue about how much ISO is in the air and it can easily overwhelm a charcoal filter. Now what? - you smell paint- sure keep going because you have bought all that paint and its only one time right? What are the chances? Same as jacking up a car and not using a jack stand. Maybe today will be that day.

I have had to change my disposable clear cover over my full face every coat because it gets covered in little mist droplets. That is going right into your eyes and all over your face wearing a half mask.

There are guys doing this on the side that will teach people. GO to some local dealers and walk around back to the service bays and grab a tech or ask somebody in parts if there is a guy doing it for a few extra $$. I agree 1K is a lot. But you wll have at least 500 in it no sweat just buying materials.

I spray at work and at home. You need a big compressor. Something in the range of + 20CFM and a drier. or your just putting hot wet air in the paint. 6 months and you got pin head bubbles in the finish.

I had to learn like everyone but you need to do it safely. Most people spraying on the weekend at home are doing it wrong and if your lucky you will only end up with a splitting headache from solvent exposure.

If you want to learn about body and paint Autobodystore Forums

P
Thanks a ton, I'll definitely read up before I get to work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
There's only one way to learn, go for it. If this is your first time, start with something smaller so you can practice. Or scrounge some old panels off a local auto dismantler.

I personally started with a pair of wing mirrors and slowly worked my way up to doing whole vehicles.

Air gun - anything gravity fed will be fine for what you're doing, don't waste your money on a "good" gun, they all do the same thing.
Air compressor - Get the cheapest Chineseiest one you can find, 50 litre minimum with a water trap.
Paint - get it from the paint shop that quoted the job. Or find a local automotive paint supplier. Go for the expensive clear coat.
Sandpaper - 600, 1200, 1500 wet & dry. Consider buying a cheap air powered DA sander and sanding discs, you'll thank me later.
Rust spots - ??? Stone chips? Need pics. A glazing filler will probably do the job, alternatively you could feather the edges and go over the area with a filler primer.
Respirator - I use one of these:


You'll also need thinners and hardener that are compatible with the paint you're using, wax & grease remover and a tack cloth. You'll need some rubbing compound, two grades should do the job, I like the 3M Perfect-it range.

Sweep the floor before you start. You don't need a fan, just get out as soon as you can after putting a coat on, don't hang around to watch the paint dry. Once you're finished and it's flashed off, open the doors.

Don't overthink it. Don't be put off by those who say you can't do it. It's not that hard.
Here are the rust spots and full hood. It pains me every time I look at it because it really draws attention. Do you think I should use body filler or is it not really worth it?



 

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Here are the rust spots and full hood. It pains me every time I look at it because it really draws attention. Do you think I should use body filler or is it not really worth it?
Yikes, you've got a lot of sanding to do to get rid of all that flaky clear coat......it might be worth considering sanding the whole lot down to primer or bare metal and starting over, that way you know you've got a good starting point.

As for the stone chips, I personally wouldn't fill them. Sand them down to bare metal and spot prime with high solids primer, then block sand smooth.
 

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You have to start somewhere. Those who are saying you are in over your head and need more gear/equipment arent wrong. That being said I painted more than a couple cars back in the day only using a paper respirator like most are using for this covid BS. lol No not the best idea but it didnt kill me or do any damage that I know of and that was 30 years ago.

I did eventually get a better respirator but hat the big bulky feeling. lol A little 6 gallon air compressor isnt going to cut it. 20 gallon would be the smallest and it should be a decent brand. You dont want your air flow to fluctuate. As for a clean environment, I use to mask off the walls of my garage with plastic and wet the floor to keep dust down. I had a box fan (not a good idea) in a window to pull air out and later good a better explosion proof high draw fan. I also used large cheap filters in another window to let air in and keep dust/debris out.

I painted several cars that turned out very nice with only the occasional nat or mosquito I had to pull out. lol I started with some good elchepo OLD DeVilbiss guns my dad had. Eventually I got a good paint gun and have to admit it made things a lot easier. Funny story about the paint gun, I was going back and forth about spending the extra money on the paint gun for a couple of months and finally decided to buy it. I went into the paint store I had been buying my products from to purchase it and the sales guy keep hinting for me not to buy it. I couldnt figure out why until he finally told me my girlfriend had bought it for me already because it was almost my birthday. To this day it was one of the best birthday presents I have gotten and that was almost 40 years ago. :)

The main thing I hated about painting was the prep work.

Best of luck
 

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It can be done cheap. You don't need to have any high end equipment, it makes it easier. You can take your color code or paint chips and have a local paint store color match you some spray cans. I would pick up 6 cans of base coat and 12 cans of 2K clear coat. It really depends how many coats of base or clear you want. Get more cans if you want the paint thicker.

If you have rock chips down to the primer you will want to really sand it down. You could sand it to bare metal for a perfect look but if you use a primer filler and primer sealer it will fill in the imperfections.

I agree with everyone, it's really in the prep work on how your paint job will look. I spent a majority of my work wet sanding to get it to look flawless.

When I bought my 3000gt VR4 years ago, it has a backyard paint job. It took a trip to home depot to find out the exact color they used. I bought the spray cans and went to work. You can read about it if you like from one of my threads I created. It should give you an ideal of what you can do with very little tools and the results you can get if you put in some work.

 
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There's one more option which will probably give the best result at a reasonable cost - do the prep & primer yourself and have a paint shop do the base coat and clear coat.
That works too!

A few years ago my co-worker stopped at a little mom and pop paint shop, asked for a quote to spray a hood. He said he would do the sand and primer/prep work, just needs it sprayed. They said $150 but that they can't guarantee their work, only because they are unsure how good of a primer or prep work the customer did/does. If they do all the work, the shop can guarantee the work but some will do the job but make you sign a wavier. They just don't want to be responsible because of a cheap primer caused the paint to flick off ect, which I would understand. The OP has a lot of options!

Great suggestion box!
 
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LS3S
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Not sure "in over your head" is the right mentality, it's not brain surgery. I would look at it more of make sure you get the right equipment, even at a basic level, do your research, and give it a go. Not over your head, but you likely won't get great results the first time around. I was "in over my head" to many with my build as well, but kept at it and researched and had to redo a lot of things, but figured it out. Was just inexperienced, needed to learn.

That being said, doing a lot of the manual labor prep work then bringing it to get sprayed isn't a bad idea. $1000 seems way too expensive to just paint a hood though.
 

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Even Maaco could paint the hood for around $300, it would look better then the current state.
 
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