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Discussion Starter · #41 · (Edited)
Hi, My friends @white93gt @box @beegeezy @Chang oil ,
My new "four seasons" compressor arrived today, the looking seems pretty close to the OEM one but still has some differences, And I got some questions also.
1. it comes with two connector set, my car is 95, so I assume I will need the 5 pins (in the first pic), is my understanding correct?
2. you could tell from the second picture, that one of the connectors on the plate which is near the opposite side of the pulley is very different from the OEM one, the new one can not be called a connector actually, it is a hub with two fixed wires on it, and there is a "Female" connector on each wire (A and B from the Sec pic). That 5-pin connector has 3 spare wires on it, two of them are male (C and D), so they obviously supposed to connect to A and B those two Female connectors from the compressor plate. But the question is which one should connect to which one? or does not matter?
3. you could see there is a black panel on the end of the compressor. What is that? Is that something for dumping the oil in it? If so, what is the torque spec for it when refill and install back?

4. The last one, you see there is a label said "This compressor pre-charged with 3 oz of oil", is this means, I don't need to dump the oil, then I can hook it up it and use it directly?

Thank you so much!


 

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1: Use the connector which is the same as your one
2: It doesn't matter which way you connect the wires
3: Don't know, just leave it alone
4: It's up to you. The "right" way to do it would be to flush the system completely and then add 2.4oz of oil (you've already got 3oz in the new compressor which would bring it up to the total 5.4oz the system requires).

I would personally just install the compressor and add another approximately 50ml (or about 1.5oz) of oil to the system to cover what's leaked out. You'll already have residual oil sitting in the evaporator, condenser, drier and in the lines. Near enough is good enough, keeping in mind that too little oil and the system explodes, too much oil and the system will be inefficient.

I'd imagine you'll void any warranty on the compressor if you don't flush the system.

Make sure you spin the compressor backwards by hand a few times to get the internal components moving and splash a bit of oil around......it's similar to priming a rebuilt engine with oil pressure before startup.
 

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1992 3000GT VR4
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People have preferences with oil already being in new compressors
I dump mine out and put new pag oil with dye
But it won't hurt to leave the oil in it just tip it to its side looking at high and low side ports to making sure there is oil in it
Should have came with some rubber plugs on ports take the hold down brackets off these rubber plugs will help with reinstalling the AC compressor to help aid you when putting compressor back in so you don't loose any oil or get dirty contaminants in ports
if you have to flip or roll the compressor to fit for install these plugs will hold the oil and keep it from leaking out
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
1: Use the connector which is the same as your one
2: It doesn't matter which way you connect the wires
3: Don't know, just leave it alone
4: It's up to you. The "right" way to do it would be to flush the system completely and then add 2.4oz of oil (you've already got 3oz in the new compressor which would bring it up to the total 5.4oz the system requires).

I would personally just install the compressor and add another approximately 50ml (or about 1.5oz) of oil to the system to cover what's leaked out. You'll already have residual oil sitting in the evaporator, condenser, drier and in the lines. Near enough is good enough, keeping in mind that too little oil and the system explodes, too much oil and the system will be inefficient.

I'd imagine you'll void any warranty on the compressor if you don't flush the system.

Make sure you spin the compressor backwards by hand a few times to get the internal components moving and splash a bit of oil around......it's similar to priming a rebuilt engine with oil pressure before startup.
Thanks man!
I will do a full flush and change my expansion valve which I did not remove when I do the first flush, I just figured it should be removed before flush....:poop:, I originally think probably not worth doing it since I just reuse my old compressor (the car came with it and AC does not work from beginning ), but now I got a new one, I have to say it is a nice looking one, so I should do it.

By the way, are the orings all metric size?
 

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If you have to pull and replace o rings just match them up to there correct sizes
Exact same sizes
To big they will end up getting damaged during install
To small will cause a leak
If you've replaced them already check make sure they're no damages done to them
Pre lube with oil and reinstall them
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
hey my friends @box @white93gt @Chang oil , I drain out the coolant and getting ready to remove everything, I even ordered another new condenser (the one on the car purchased 2 months before).
Then I found there is also some dyed oil on the condenser connecting tubes, so I am wondering if these two connectors were leaking. But the fact is, before I recharged the AC I did a vacuum test, it was holding very well for 1 hour. So, is it that possible these two connectors on the condenser are leaking but still can hold the vacuum?
One more thing about O rings, since our cars are made in Japan, will all the rings be the metric size? (you know the metric ones are always a little beefier)
 

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Need to get you an assortment of AC orings at your parts store and match them up accordingly to the exact same sizes and replace them
Far as I know they use metric measurements and we use normal SAE standard but this doesn't matter take them off intact if you can and match them up 1 by 1 replacing them
 

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Pre lube your O rings with clean Pag oil prior to installing the flex hoses and hard line so you dont damage the Orings
Make sure you slide them in all the way by hand before you tighten them down
 

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So, is it that possible these two connectors on the condenser are leaking but still can hold the vacuum?
Yes.

Vacuuming is a quick and dirty (and convenient and free) way to check for leaks, ideally the system should be pressure tested with nitrogen before vacuuming to check for leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Need to get you an assortment of AC orings at your parts store and match them up accordingly to the exact same sizes and replace them
Far as I know they use metric measurements and we use normal SAE standard but this doesn't matter take them off intact if you can and match them up 1 by 1 replacing them
Hi Sir, I got two problems about this thing:
1. the connectors on the condenser are leaking, when I re-install the connecting tubes on it I use the exact size o- rings (at least I think they are the correct size, you know the old ones are always out of shape, sometimes hard to tell which size really is), but they still leaking now, since the condenser is just UAC aftermarket part, I think the holes on it might be just bigger than OEM, so this time I want to use someone a little beefier
2. what I really mean by metric size problem is, you can tell from the pic below, the left one is 13x3mm, the right one is 9/16''x3/32'', they almost have the same OD but the metric one is beefy, but when the old original one in deformation, it probably looks like the SAE one, but it actually should be the metric one, so how to decide in this case?

Thanks
 
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