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Here is what I did, I just tight the ps belt with the longest slack can be twisted 90 degree, is this enough? or our car should be righter than this? Thanks!
Proper way below.

There's always possibility of harmonic balancer rubber bonding failing, causing outer ring to slip when trying to drive accessories. You might do the white line test on balancer to see if its slipping, see image below of one that white line was painted (or chalked) in straight line on center and outer portion. You can see after running awhile, the outer portion has slipped in rubber bonding area, this too can cause a squeal.
Click on image to enlarge
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Yes in low speed, as long as everything is correct with Air Conditioning Compressor Lock Controller (ACCLC). It supplies power to control side of condenser low speed fan relay which will close as soon as power is received and condenser fan will run as long as 20amp #8 dedicated fuse (in small A/C relay box near drier) is good.

I suspect everything is OK with the ACCLC, because compressor clutch wouldn’t engage if there was a problem there. That’s another reason I think your squealing is a belt not tight enough and not a stuck compressor, because there’s a rotation sensor on compressor that ACCLC unit monitors and if it doesn’t sense rotation when clutch engages, it will immediately dropout compressor clutch.
Hey sir, I finally got a chance to adjust the belt today (just clean up all the junk in the garage...). And the sound is magically disappeared, I am always worried if I tight it too much, but I bought a spring tensioner gauge, when I press with 22lb, seems I am in the spec deflection.

But I got one drip of dyed pag oil from the bottom of the compressor. I checked the compressor, it was definitely not from the tube connectors or the pressure release value. So, can some other places of the compressor leak oil?
 

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The front shaft seal can leak behind the pulley.
The seals between the housings can leak.
There's a pair of speed sensors which have o-rings on them which can leak.
There's also the control valve in the rear end of the pump which has a series of o-rings on it which can leak:







 

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Hey sir, I finally got a chance to adjust the belt today (just clean up all the junk in the garage...). And the sound is magically disappeared, I am always worried if I tight it too much, but I bought a spring tensioner gauge, when I press with 22lb, seems I am in the spec deflection.
Nothing magical about it, just proper belt tension per manual specs. (y)
@box covered possible leak points well, but unless there's more leaking I wouldn't worry about it. The rotary shaft seal could have leaked that drop before system was pressurized and sealed afterwards. If there is a continuous leak the refrigerant pressure will drop to point A/C will stop cooling, requiring a recharge and then you'll know it is an active leak.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
The front shaft seal can leak behind the pulley.
The seals between the housings can leak.
There's a pair of speed sensors which have o-rings on them which can leak.
There's also the control valve in the rear end of the pump which has a series of o-rings on it which can leak:







Thanks, like a BOXer, every punch on the spot!
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Nothing magical about it, just proper belt tension per manual specs. (y)
@box covered possible leak points well, but unless there's more leaking I wouldn't worry about it. The rotary shaft seal could have leaked that drop before system was pressurized and sealed afterwards. If there is a continuous leak the refrigerant pressure will drop to point A/C will stop cooling, requiring a recharge and then you'll know it is an active leak.
The front shaft seal can leak behind the pulley.
The seals between the housings can leak.
There's a pair of speed sensors which have o-rings on them which can leak.
There's also the control valve in the rear end of the pump which has a series of o-rings on it which can leak:







Hi my friends, after I tighten the alternator/ac belt, I got another bottle of refrigerant charged in, after that, I drive the car about 30 miles yesterday, then I got a larger leaking...

The ac still is cold even though it is not ice cold, I was thinking this will not be an issue since I only charged in two bottles which is less than spec, and the pressure seems also not in the spec, I mean when 95F outside, my low side only about 32 and high side only 200, lower than it should for sure.

Below is the new leaking (its oil, not water or coolant) I found this morning (a little bit on the alternator, a couple of drops under the alternator, a couple of drops under the tensioner bracket, some on the power steering belt upper face, and some on the timing case front bottom area, and some on the bottom drive belts/pulley cover, and some oi), these leaking was absolutely not there when I tighten the belt couple of days ago. And I do check the cam seal and the valve cover gasket, I am sure they are not coming from there (see the last pic, they are bone dry) also and they are just newly replaced one month ago...very weired, So I have two questions below:

1. what do you think about the leaking? would these leak just from the ac compressor and it splashes to everywhere when AC running?
2. what should I do now? wiping out the leaking and keeping the drive for a while for further checking? or should I just buy a new compress and start to replacement?

Thank you so much!

 

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I can't say I've ever seen an A/C system leak that much oil. Add a small amount of UV dye to the system (if your oil didn't already contain dye) run the system for a while and then go over it with a UV light to figure out where the leak is (if it is infact A/C oil).

At a glance I'd say that's engine oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I can't say I've ever seen an A/C system leak that much oil. Add a small amount of UV with dye to the system (if your oil didn't already contain dye) run the system for a while and then go over it with a UV light to figure out where the leak is (if it is infact A/C oil).

At a glance I'd say that's engine oil.
Well, you know when I reinstall the ac system, I did refill the oil it totally more than 100ml with dye for sure. But with all cam seal, filter house and valve cover completely dry I am really confused~. I just bought a UV light, I will check it tonight. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
@box @white93gt Ok, my friends, I can not wait and I just checked it with UV light, then I probably can confirm that all of these leaking shit from the compressor, you could tell from the pics below, that the glowing dye spot all over the ps belt, the bottom of the alternator, ac hoses, and the driver side small member upper face...

So, what to do? is it still worth wiping out for further check? (any possibility it will stop leaking?) or it is just the time for a new compressor?
 

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So, what to do? is it still worth wiping out for further check? (any possibility it will stop leaking?) or it is just the time for a new compressor?
Since it’s leaked that much I doubt it will stop. Unless you fell like you’re capable of properly replacing shaft seal assembly #2 pictured above in @box post #23 and take chance financially of it not correcting the problem, I have to agree with box’s above post to replace compressor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Since it’s leaked that much I doubt it will stop. Unless you fell like you’re capable of properly replacing shaft seal assembly #2 pictured above in @box post #23 and take chance financially of it not correcting the problem, I have to agree with box’s above post to replace compressor.
I agree, I will order a new one, I am still very proud that I can read guage and charge this thing use vuccum pump and guage even though it end up with a leaking compressor:) Hopefully I can get a good new one!
 

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Are you charging your A/C by looking at the pressures on the manifold gauges?! The only correct way to properly charge an A/C is by weight. If you rely on the pressures, and the compressor is worn out, you can seriously overcharge the system and destroy the compressor!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Well if it was blowing cold to start with your in range of pressures or weight
even blowing cold or cool at low pressures or low charge
If it was over charged it wouldn't blow cold at all it would blow hot from the condenser side not being able to bring the high pressures down from heat range
Causing the pressure relief valve to pop open to let access pressure out or blow the front shaft seal in behind the AC clutch

If it was blowing cold to start with after repair then this is in deed a crapped out remanufactured ac compressor
(Or poor parts rebuild)
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Are you charging your A/C by looking at the pressures on the manifold gauges?! The only correct way to properly charge an A/C is by weight. If you rely on the pressures, and the compressor is worn out, you can seriously overcharge the system and destroy the compressor!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks for the warning man. I actually played it in a very safe way, because my system totally empty before charging, and the capacity should be at least 26 oz, but I only bought 24 oz, that being said even if I totally charge them in, I still lower than the low end of the spec. But your warning just told me the pressure not even make sense sometimes, that is a really good piece of knowledge, thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Well if it was blowing cold to start with your in range of pressures or weight
even blowing cold or cool at low pressures or low charge
If it was over charged it wouldn't blow cold at all it would blow hot from the condenser side not being able to bring the high pressures down from heat range
Causing the pressure relief valve to pop open to let access pressure out or blow the front shaft seal in behind the AC clutch

If it was blowing cold to start with after repair then this is in deed a crapped out remanufactured ac compressor
(Or poor parts rebuild)
Thanks for the reply, yeah my AC do blow cold, and even still blows cold now with leaking everywhere...I am sure it did not come from the top side of the compressor (not from the release valve), it seems come from the back side of the compressor pulley, then it just splashed everywhere when running... so...what the hell, I already ordered a new one, but finger cross it will work well....
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
A very funny story I just remembered, since @beegeezy mentioned the gauge. The reason I said I am very proud I can use gauge and pump in the post is because when I went to Autozone to rent the pump, the young man there even don't know what I talked about, then he end up getting a brand new pump from their storage to me, he said he never see someone rent this, and he even confirmed with be couple times that "are you sure how to use it?"...I am really feel I am really older than my thought now..
 

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Thanks for the warning man. I actually played it in a very safe way, because my system totally empty before charging, and the capacity should be at least 26 oz, but I only bought 24 oz, that being said even if I totally charge them in, I still lower than the low end of the spec. But your warning just told me the pressure not even make sense sometimes, that is a really good piece of knowledge, thanks!
That's a safe way to do it. If the system has the correct charge and you're puking a/c oil, it's safe to say the compressot is shot. Just remember, when you replace the compressor that you'll need to replace the expansion valve and drier at the same time. It's a good idea to buy some a/c flush and rent a flush gun so you can flush the system when you remove the compressor, expansion valve, and drier. Most new compressors come pre-oiled, so hopefully you just need to remove the old parts, flush, reinstall the new parts, pull a vacuum, and charge. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
That's a safe way to do it. If the system has the correct charge and you're puking a/c oil, it's safe to say the compressot is shot. Just remember, when you replace the compressor that you'll need to replace the expansion valve and drier at the same time. It's a good idea to buy some a/c flush and rent a flush gun so you can flush the system when you remove the compressor, expansion valve, and drier. Most new compressors come pre-oiled, so hopefully you just need to remove the old parts, flush, reinstall the new parts, pull a vacuum, and charge. Good luck!
Hey sir, I just want to confirm my case, I flushed my ac system 1 month ago, then I did my recharge two weeks ago, then I reinstalled my old/cleaned-up compressor, then we found the leaking. And as I mentioned my ac still blow cold today, I personally think some seals in it are just too old to keep the pressure and oil. So, in this case, do I really need to flush again? Thanks!
 

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Hey sir, I just want to confirm my case, I flushed my ac system 1 month ago, then I did my recharge two weeks ago, then I reinstalled my old/cleaned-up compressor, then we found the leaking. And as I mentioned my ac still blow cold today, I personally think some seals in it are just too old to keep the pressure and oil. So, in this case, do I really need to flush again? Thanks!
Flushing is to remove contaminants due to a parts failure (bad compressor usually) and it removes the old oil in the system. If you want to get the correct amount of oil and refrigerant in the system after you replace the compressor, you should flush again. However, most of the oil is in the compressor, so it might not make much of a difference. It's your time and money, but I would do it again to be safe.
 
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