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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This may not be new idea, but I have not seen it done like this. Here is an alternative method of deleting the Clutch boost "accumulator" and all the hardlines going to front. This requires no extra "T" fitting or hose.

On the hardline that runs along the firewall --> Cut it off, and bend it towards the brake booster, then connect the brake booster short hose to it. Nothing extra to buy !! and it looks stock.

Crude Sketch:
http://www.3si.org/forum/attachments/f35/76801d1242952836-vacuum-reduction-clutch-boost-no-extra-t-diagram.jpg
 

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I'm drawing a blank without looking at my motor. Are you saying, in that pic, that the top left line is the one you bent and connected?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I was hoping to get some more pictures and a better description, but have been swamped the past few days.

Before I started there were two hardlines attached to the firewall. One was connected to the Intake (near the throttlebody) and ran to the brake master cylinder. That hard-line was removed completely, and intake port plugged. The short hose on Brake booster is retained, and connected to newly bent tube.

The lower hard-line on the firewall was connected to a hose near the battery area and ran to the clutch booster. . . . I cut that line, and bent the end toward the brake booster hose. That line has a "T" in it, (behind the brake booster) That "T" is connected to the checkvalve hose going to the intake on driver side.

The photo in opening post is editted to show where it was bent.

I will make a diagram later this weekend . . . pictures are always better than words. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #6
This is the best free mod I have made to my car!!

As it turns out, my clutch booster was not receiving vacuum before, one of the lines was clogged up. . . wow it is SO much easier to push the clutch in now!! . . . no more tired left thigh at long traffic lights!

So I eliminated a bunch of added complexity, a little weight, and it actually works better!

.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I added a 2nd photo to the first post. . . Hopefully that will make things slightly more clear.

.
 

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That second picture definitely helps. I think I'll snap a photo of what I'm going to do and post it before I do it so I don't bone anything up. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Alright, I'm probably going to do this soon. Any tips on bending the line without kinking it?

Any tips on getting the line out of the engine bay? I've never looked at the vacuum tank but I'm assuming it's easy to get out?

Also, what did you use to plug the nipple?
I used a tubing bender. 456 Tri-Bender - RIDGID Professional Tools . . . The tubing is actually a little big for the bender, maybe = 10mm which is slightly larger than the 3/8 form in the bender, but it worked. (with a lot of force on handles). . . . Not sure if you can get one of these benders as auto parts loaner tool?? With care, you could bend it around a round object the radius you are attempting. You would have to do little at a time, and maybe use vise-grips or something to keep the sides from bulging. . . . My bend was a little ugly because I had a hard time getting the bender in position correctly. I slipped a piece of flexible black plastic tubing over the steel tube to hide the un-evenness. Looks totally stock.

I bent the tube while in the car, but I would suggest taking it out first. I had to take mine out later for other reasons, and found it is not that hard to disconnect the A/C line from firewall etc. to free this tube.

The hard lines and vacuum tank are easy to get out. It is a little time-consuming because of the other stuff that has to be removed first, but it is very obvious what has to come out, once you look at it.

I removed the nipple and replaced with metric pipe plug.
 

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The lower hard-line on the firewall was connected to a hose near the battery area and ran to the clutch booster. . . . I cut that line, and bent the end toward the brake booster hose.
I don't get it... I understand that you're cutting the hard-line, connecting one end of the cut to the brake booster hose, but what are you doing with the other end of the cut that runs to the clutch booster. I think this is the ugly hard-line that runs across the engine bay and down past the tranny. Doesn't that impact the clutch booster now?

- Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I don't get it... I understand that you're cutting the hard-line, connecting one end of the cut to the brake booster hose, but what are you doing with the other end of the cut that runs to the clutch booster. I think this is the ugly hard-line that runs across the engine bay and down past the tranny. Doesn't that impact the clutch booster now?

- Jeff
Something not obvious looking in engine bay is that there is a "T" behind the air conditioning hoses. One side goes to passenger side, on it way to the accumulator tanks under radiator. The other side goes to the clutch booster.

I cut the line (the ugly one you refer to), bent it, and attached to brake booster. . . . The other side of the "T" remains connected to clutch booster.

Attached is a crude sketch.
 

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Something not obvious looking in engine bay is that there is a "T" behind the air conditioning hoses. One side goes to passenger side, on it way to the accumulator tanks under radiator. The other side goes to the clutch booster.

I cut the line (the ugly one you refer to), bent it, and attached to brake booster. . . . The other side of the "T" remains connected to clutch booster.

Attached is a crude sketch.
Got it, thanks!

- Jeff
 

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If you don't have anything to bend that line with, could you cut the hard pipe closer to the stock rubber pipe and get a longer rubber pipe and replace the stock one? If I'm reading this right the piece replaced would be the one right behind the brake fluid reservoir, so there's no check valve in it. I'm doing the vac reduction now so I want to do this at the same time and ditch the stupid brake booster. That hard line near the battery annoys the sporf outta me!

EDIT: How hard is the pipe to cut? Any special tools needed?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
If you don't have anything to bend that line with, could you cut the hard pipe closer to the stock rubber pipe and get a longer rubber pipe and replace the stock one? If I'm reading this right the piece replaced would be the one right behind the brake fluid reservoir, so there's no check valve in it. I'm doing the vac reduction now so I want to do this at the same time and ditch the stupid brake booster. That hard line near the battery annoys the sporf outta me!

EDIT: How hard is the pipe to cut? Any special tools needed?
I used a Ridgid tubing cutter to cut the line, but a hacksaw (or similar) would work. That would be a crude cut though, and edges probably should be filed.

You could use a longer hose to the brake booster, and not have to bend the clutch line.

I will try to explain this method in words (no time right now to do a picture). After NG, and I hopefully I have some more time, I might try to document this better.

To do what you are proposing --> there will be a stock line from driver's side of intake (with checkvalve) to the "T" hidden behind brake booster. One side of that "T" will remain stock and go to clutch booster. The other side of the "T" will be cut at some point, and a new hose will run to brake booster.

Note that the only difference to this method and mine, is that I did not have to buy any extra hose, I used the stock hose to brake booster. . . . but if you have no means to bend the tubing, a longer hose could be used.

Either way, you can eliminate the hard line that goes by the battery, :D

If that explanation did not make sense, let me know, and I will try again.
 

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That makes perfect sense and is exactly what I was hoping to hear. I'll take pics of it sometime next week when I can get my hands on a camera and I'll post it up. Thanks!!!
 
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