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Discussion Starter #1
Well I figured I'd start with the gauges. Last night I took off the front intercooler flex hose, the lower heat shield, and moved the upper heat shield out of the way the best that I could in order to take a look at the front exhaust manifold. Looked like the EGT probe install would be pretty easy. The top of the front exhaust manifold is practically flat and is easy to get to with those parts removed. I also notced that black connector to the right of the front flex hose for the intercooler is for the front/upper O2 sensor. That'll make it easy to install the Air/Fuel ratio gauge! So I put it back together just enough to make it driveable. Then I pulled out my Autometer gaugepod to take a look at it. Had a little extra plastic flanging left over from the mold that I had to cut off. Did a test fit, fits great. Put my Air/Fuel ratio gauge in it and it fits like a glove. Started to put the EGT guage in but I figured that I should be able to share the power or the ground for both gauges so that I don't have to run any unnecesary wires around the door jamb. Stopped there last night and went to be cause I'm still not sure of how to wire the lighting for the EGT gauge and I need to borrow a friends multimeter....

This morning I woke up and checked my mail one guy on the Tech list says that the dimmer rheostat drops the voltage as you turn up the dimmer. I think meaning the lights get brighter when the rheostat limits the voltage!?! Fastboy on here says that the rheostat varies the ground...Now I'm confused. I'll figure it out when my buddy calls me back to get that multimeter.
Anyway I call this welding shop to get my EGT bung welded onto the manifold. I cruise over there and pullt the upper heat shield and fron IC flex hose off again. He drills a hole in the top of the manifold with a 35/64" (or something like that) bit instead of the 9/16" recomended by Autometer then hammers the bung into the hole. Fit like a glove! Then he welds all the way around it to ensure no leaks. I pay the man $45 for 50 minutes o'work and put the car back together again. Ever drive a car with a hole in a header? The thing sounded WEIRD on the way home from the welding shop. Everytime i'd get into boost you'd really hear it!

Well now I'm waiting on the multimeter phone call. Don't want to start putting the probe in yet cause he could call at any moment.
Still to go this week:
Finish Gauges
ATR Downpipe
Gut Precats
Casper Electronocs O2 Sensor Simulators for the post cat O2 sensors
TEC 15G Turbos
RC Engineering 550cc injectors
HKS VPC (modded by Altered Atmosphere for OBD II cars)
HKS Fuel Pump
Put stock wires back in

I'll keep you guys posted...

Trevor
96 R/T TT
[email protected]
[email protected] 0-60 4.14 Gtech
HKS EVC [email protected] psi, NGK [email protected]", Accel Wires, Greddy Type S BOV, Borla, K&N FIPK http://members.xoom.com/_XMCM/talonboy/readersrides/page2.html
92 GMC Typhoon
[email protected] 0-60 5.09 Gtech http://members.xoom.com/_XMCM/talonboy/readersrides/page5.html
 

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Hey Trevor,

I enjoyed that. I plan on doing some simple mods in the future.

Keep us posted. I'll be following your progress.

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well the gauges are done. Put the EGT thermocouple in and tapped the white wire on that front/upper O2 sensor connector for the air/fuel ratio gauge. Ran the wires around the drivers side of the engine bay, ziptying them to the A/C line that runs all the way around. Wired the light in the EGT gauge to the Green wire with the white stripe that plugs into the dimmer. It's hot when the lights are on. Didn't use the dimmer cause the guy off the tech list was right, the voltage does drop as you turn up the dimmer! WEIRD! Mounted the box for the EGT gauge under the dash. Wrapped all the wires with electrical tape and ran them around the door jamb. I don't really see a better way to do it. Went out to give the gauges a run through. It runs REALLY FAT at WOT just like it should. All green lights on my Air/Fuel gauge. EGT's ranged from 790F at idle, 1380-1400F at 70MPH in 6th, and to 1620F at WOT. It's hits 1570F rather quick then slowly advances to 1620F (which pegs the gauge). I asked the tech list about these temps cause they sounded too high but Barry King replied that they're normal.

Well tomorrow will be the day for gutting the pre-cats, installing the O2 sensor simulators, and my ATR downpipe poviding I can get a lift at my bases(I'm Air Force) auto hobby shop...

Trevor
 

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Discussion Starter #5
No I'm in Wichita, KS. The Auto Hobby Shop was closed today. I'll be there tomorrow when they open a 1PM with bells on. Don't want to start on the turbos/injectors/fuel pump/VPC till I get the cats/downpipe taken care of.

Trevor
96 R/T TT
92 GMC Typhoon
 
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I hope you aren't trying to gut your cats at the hobby shop. If I was to do that here at Shaw they'd probably call the cops on me!! LOL Everytime you go in there you have to tell them what you are doing. You can't even do your anti-freeze there!!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Oh man, THAT SUCKED!!!!!!!! Went to the hobby shop at noon. Let the car sit till 1pm when it opened. Didn't get a lift till 2. Pulled off the downpipe. 6 bolts and a hanger and it came right out. It's especially easy when you dike the post-cat O2 sensors ;-). The stock downpipe and cat is pretty heavy compared to the ATR without a cat.
Pulled off the front pre-cat. E-Z! Started to work with a long flathead screwdriver, a pair of vise grips, and a lady finger. After about an hour and 15 minutes I sent a buddy out for my drill and a big bit. I had punched all the way through it about 20 times but couldn't get any chunks out!
In the meantime I spliced my new casper electronics O2 sensor simulators into the harness for the post cat O2 sensors. Ended up ziptying them to the mount for the O2 connectors (you'll see it when you're down there).
When he got back I drilled the [email protected] outta the front one on a vise. My buddies went to work on it with the screwdriver and ladyfinger. I turned my attention to the rear precat. After drilling about 6 holes in it they were done with the front. By the way, that took me 45 minutes to an hour! My hands kept on cramping from all the vibration from the drill! Well we work the rear one for about 45 minutes more and it comes out in large chunks. (unlike the front one!)
Slapped the front precat and downpipe on without too much work. Only thing was the rear of the downpipe didn't quite line up with the Borla cat-back. A little muscle and that was fixed. Cranked it up and got a check engine light. [email protected]! Either I hooked it up wrong or the O2 sensor sims don't work on our cars. Here's what wires I used for what (tell me if you know I'm wrong!)
White-O2 Signal
Blue-+12V(For the heater element)
Then there's 2 black wires. The instructions for the sims wanted a "sensor ground" and a "chassis ground". I just picked a black wire for each and spliced it in. Didn't think it would matter but maybe I'm wrong!
Now to my impressions on the drive home. Boost seems to spool slightly faster (maybe my imagination). The best thing about it is the sound. I can't describe how AWESOME it sounds! I'm not a religious man by any means but when I put the hammer down and redlined second gear I thanked god for putting me on this earth and giving me the ability to hear such wonderful music out of a piece of machinery. Thing sounds like an exotic, dead serious. I can't explain it except to say this is what I expect an F50 to sound like.
Well I'm exhausted and I need to go eat. I'm going to work on the O2 sims tomorrow. I doubt I'll have the energy to start the 15G's. If anyone has any ideas about what wires are what on the post-cat O2 sensors I'm listening, errr, reading.

Trevor
96 R/T TT
Undergoing major surgery....To be continued...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
OK, this things startin to torque me! Well I measured the voltages across the 4 wires to each O2 sensor simulator. All of the but the signal wire read 12V(that includes both grounds and the +12V heater wire). The signal wire was only reading like .345mV. WHAT!! So I said screw it and diked all the wires. Went up top with the sims, spliced both grounds together, and attatced that to the negative on the battery. Then I attatched the +12V (heater) wire to the positive terminal. Measured the output voltage carried by the signal wire and got .835V. Tried the other one .830V. Just what they should be! So I run 2 wires down to the post-pre-cat O2 sensor wires (one wire for each o2 sensor simulators signal). I hook them up to white wires for the signal on the engine harness then reset the computer by pulling the ECI fuse under the hood with the key in the on position. After finishing the reset I crank the car up and all is well. No check engine light...I turn the engine off after idling for awhile (it never did go into open loop mode) then put the key in the on postion. I check the O2 sensor simulators and one is hot as hades and the other one is room temperature. I then crawl back under the car (for the hundreth time) and check the signal voltages. .345mV again on both wires instead of .83V like it should be! I must have the wrong engine harness signal wire or something. I've been using the white ones because I know that the upper/front O2 sensor uses the white wire to carry the signal. And about one sim being WAY hotter then that other I haven't a clue. I'll work on it some more tomorrow....

Trev

[This message has been edited by Trevor (edited December 23, 1999).]
 

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Discussion Starter #9
OK I think I got it. One black wire is the heater (+12V), the other black wire is the sensor ground, the blue wire is the sensor wire, and finally the white wire is trhe chassis ground. I had the sensor output wires from the sims hooked up straight to the chassis ground (white wire). remember that one that got REALLY hot? Well it's toast. I hooked the other one that still works to both sensor wires. With the car off it puts out .830V. Turn it on and it's like .705V. I guess it can't supply enough voltage for two channels (probably why they make you buy them in pairs!) I still get a check engine light because (I guess) .705V is not enough to trick the computer. I'm going to have to buy another pair of sims from Casper Electronics. $59.99 down the drain! Look here for a pic of the sims... http://www.tbyrnemotorsports.com/f98exhaust.html
I'm going to put off the 15G's, 550's, VPC, and fuel pump until next weekend...

Trevor
 
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