[GTOJOE]

Hi All,

Not sure how relevant this is to most of you folks but I had some issues recently with my MAF.
I kept getting told by many very knowledgeable people that any MAF will work regardless of year or model. Every thread I read said the same thing. However...... my car is a JDM TT so what has been said on all these threads appears to be correct for USDM models ONLY.
I had some issue which I suspected was my MAF. So in all my wisdom I cleaned my MAF with electronic parts cleaner. This made my car undrivable as it stumbled and lurched constantly. I cleaned it again and it came good for about a week. Then back to the same issues. Then one day it threw a CEL pointing to code 12 air flow sensor.
I bought a replacement going on the above rule that any version will work.
I had a 165 which I replaced with a 337. The stumbling issues was gone but now I had a different CEL. Code 25 this time Barometric Pressure Sensor. I had the seller send me another one just incase it was a dud. Next one was a 789. Same issue.
Ran through diagnostic process in the service manual and confirmed wiring is all OK.
Did more reading and searching on ASA/CAPS on both JDM and USDM versions and found the part numbers listed for both are the same.
I then had a light bulb moment and worked out what the numbers mean. The 3 digit number is actually the last 3 digits of the part number.

So:
165 = MD170165 [1st gen TT/VR4]
618 = MD183618 [2nd gen TT/VR4]
337 = MD357337 [NA]
338 = MD357338 [NA]
055 = MD151055 [NA]
789 = MD187789 [NA]

From this brainwave I realised the 2 parts I had tried are both from an NA version.

I then sourced another 165 and fitted it tonight and car is back to normal. No CEL.

So... moral of the story is. If you have a USDM 3S then you should be able to use any MAF version. However even 3sx sell a different part number per version so I would attempt to locate the correct part number.
If you have a JDM GTO then you MUST use the correct part number.
I can only assume this is due to the differnt ECU used. I am yet to check the ECU part numbers for Europe yet as I haven't installed EU ASA. Once I have done this i'll check back.

These are the threads I had running incase it's helpful to anyone.

http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/issues-using-alternative-maf-part-number-502142/

http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/cel-code-25-barrometric-pressure-sensor-501593/

http://www.3si.org/forum/f155/australia-anyone-got-1st-gen-maf-spare-502208/

Sorry about the length but hopefully it will help someone in need.

Cheers,

Joe

 

[OhioSpyderman]

Glad you solved the puzzle Joe, sorry I couldn't be of more help.....

Bob.

 

[TUFFTR]

055 = MD151055 [NA]

Same as what My diamante has, and alot of 4cyl + V6 SOHC TR/TS magnas.

 

[GTOJOE]

055 = MD151055 [NA]

Same as what My diamante has, and alot of 4cyl + V6 SOHC TR/TS magnas.

According to JDM ASA it's for a Pajero V6. According to USDM ASA it's for Pajero, L200, Diamante and FWD NA 3S.
I actually thought this might get more hits than it did considering all the peopel that told me any version would work. Cost me $100 to work this out LOL.

 

[GTOtt-Stu]

Some good info here....cheers, you helped me out!

 

[ilian51378]

Thanks for that! I just completed my TT conversion, using a JDM ECU and got trouble codes 12 and 25... I shall pull the ECU tomorrow and read the numbers so I can source the proper MAF sensor!

 

[donniekak]

My last stealth was running the 055 maf with no issues. The 2g Dsm, and Diamante 609 maf works fine as well.

 

[GTOJOE]

My last stealth was running the 055 maf with no issues. The 2g Dsm, and Diamante 609 maf works fine as well.

This is exactly what this thread was about. Every time the Americans tell up any maf will work but that is NOT true with JDM cars. You must have the correct number or you will get a CEL.

Sent from my GT-I9300

 

[ilian51378]

This is exactly what this thread was about. Every time the Americans tell up any maf will work but that is NOT true with JDM cars. You must have the correct number or you will get a CEL.

Sent from my GT-I9300

I wonder if it really is the number or it has to be a TT MAF? According to this thread, the OP used two NA MAF sensors that didn't work, but he never tried a TT MAF, apart from the one which numbers matched the ECU numbers... Or did I misunderstand something? Now that I am thinking about it, it may prove rather hard to find a MAF with matching numbers to you ECU...

 

[keithmac]

Only thing you can clean on the maf is the IAT sensor (the reisistor just behind the vortex column), if you spray anything into the maf at best it will do nothing; at worste it will ruin it.

Good info on the numbers, some cars have less wires going to the MAF connector so it makes sense some MAFs doint have all the sensors..

 

[GTOJOE]

I wonder if it really is the number or it has to be a TT MAF? According to this thread, the OP used two NA MAF sensors that didn't work, but he never tried a TT MAF, apart from the one which numbers matched the ECU numbers... Or did I misunderstand something? Now that I am thinking about it, it may prove rather hard to find a MAF with matching numbers to you ECU...

I am the OP. The 3 digit number on the MAF is the last 3 digits of the part number. My original MAF was a 165 [1st gen TT MAF] and after everyone on 3si said I can use any MAF I bought one on ebay [cost me $80] then it gave me the CEL. So I contacted the guy I bought it from and he sent me another one. Both of these where different part numbers and both from NA cars both gave the same CEL. Then I borrowed a 165 1st gen MAF and it worked fine so I bought one of a guy in New Zealand and it then worked fine.
The numbers do NOT match the ECU they are simply the part number of the MAF.

165 = MD170165 [1st gen TT/VR4]
618 = MD183618 [2nd gen TT/VR4]
337 = MD357337 [NA]
338 = MD357338 [NA]
055 = MD151055 [NA]
789 = MD187789 [NA]

So if you have a JDM 1st gen TT [or JDM 1st gen TT ECU] then you need to run a 165 MAF if you have a 2nd gen then you need to run the 618 version.

I would have liked to test a 2nd gen MAF on my 1st gen to see if any TT MAF works and vise versa but I didn't have one to test with. So it MIGHT work fine if you can get a 2nd gen TT MAF but I can't be sure.

So if you're looking for a new MAF have a look at the 3 digit number on yours and it should match one of the 3 digit codes above for an NA MAF. Then look in the classifieds and buy the correct version MAF.

See the number on the top of this MAF? This example pic says 609 which is another NA MAF. TYou need either 165 or 618 depending on what car your ECU came ouf of.

 

[donniekak]

609 is also the maf on a 2g turbo Dsm.

 

[ilian51378]

Okay then, I just purchased a 165 MAF since I am using a '93 TT ECU. Thanks a lot for all that info!

 

[fastbikes76]

This is a JDM issue ONLY when doing a conversion. Took me a little while to work it out but here is the fix....


You need a 7 wire MAF plug which is TT only on JDM cars..from my research ALL USDM cars are 7 wires..both NA & TTwhich is why they don't have this issue.

The two missing wires from your harness are a green wire and an orange wire.


I needed to run a wire from Pin 1 (green)of the MAF plug to PIN 61 of the ECU and another from Pin 2 (orange) of the MAF to pin 65 of the ECU.

It didn't make any difference whether I ran my NA maf or my TT maf. The codes only cured when I fitted the missing wires.

 

[ilian51378]

This is a JDM issue ONLY when doing a conversion. Took me a little while to work it out but here is the fix....


You need a 7 wire MAF plug which is TT only on JDM cars..from my research ALL USDM cars are 7 wires..both NA & TTwhich is why they don't have this issue.

The two missing wires from your harness are a green wire and an orange wire.


I needed to run a wire from Pin 1 (green)of the MAF plug to PIN 61 of the ECU and another from Pin 2 (orange) of the MAF to pin 65 of the ECU.

It didn't make any difference whether I ran my NA maf or my TT maf. The codes only cured when I fitted the missing wires.

Shoot, I already spent $100... Oh well, at least I know how to fix the problem for sure now. I would have been stumped after installing the 165 MAF and discovering that the engine light was still on! Oh well, now I will have two spare MAFs... Thanks for that info!

 

[GTOJOE]

If you are running a first gen ecu then you would have needed the correct maf anyway. Sounds like he is on the money with your issue with the 2 CELs but you would have still had 1 CEL left. I have tried an NA maf on 2 first gens (90+93) and both had the same issue. Perhaps later model ecus don't have the same issue???

Also my apologies. I should have picked up that it was something else since you had the 2 error codes. I assumed you had swapped in a TT engine bay wiring loom.

Sent from my GT-I9300

 

[ilian51378]

If you are running a first gen ecu then you would have needed the correct maf anyway. Sounds like he is on the money with your issue with the 2 CELs but you would have still had 1 CEL left. I have tried an NA maf on 2 first gens (90+93) and both had the same issue. Perhaps later model ecus don't have the same issue???

Also my apologies. I should have picked up that it was something else since you had the 2 error codes. I assumed you had swapped in a TT engine bay wiring loom.

Sent from my GT-I9300

It's okay, I will swap the MAF first and see if the codes go away and if not, I can do the additional wiring. I can always sell the additional MAFs I have, but I prefer keeping a spare just in case, because our cars are getting older and parts getting more scarce...

 

[ilian51378]

This is a JDM issue ONLY when doing a conversion. Took me a little while to work it out but here is the fix....


You need a 7 wire MAF plug which is TT only on JDM cars..from my research ALL USDM cars are 7 wires..both NA & TTwhich is why they don't have this issue.

The two missing wires from your harness are a green wire and an orange wire.


I needed to run a wire from Pin 1 (green)of the MAF plug to PIN 61 of the ECU and another from Pin 2 (orange) of the MAF to pin 65 of the ECU.

It didn't make any difference whether I ran my NA maf or my TT maf. The codes only cured when I fitted the missing wires.

Okay, I finally came back from vacation and hooked up the additional two wires to the MAF. Well, the check engine light is still on. I have not disconnected the battery to reset the ECU yet. Do I have to do that to clear the light? I also have the HHH so I can try to erase the code with it as well. What do you recon I should do? Did you have to reset the ECU after you installed the additional wires? Thanks!

***EDIT***

Was your car 1st gen. or 2nd gen.? My car has a '93 TT ECU in it so the pinouts for the MAF may be in a different location than a 2nd gen. TT ECU... I also spliced into the Boomslang harness if that matters.

Also, I used this for pinout reference:

http://www.stealth316.com/2-ecu-terminals.htm

 

[GTOJOE]

Yes yet need to disconnect the battery to clear the codes. Also I would connect up the TT MAF or you might find it still has a cel after clearing. As for using the usdm wiring pin outs for a jdm car I'm not sure. Hopefully he can chime in and confirm the pins for you. Connecting them to the boomslang isn't an issue as the ecu will still get the signal.

Sent from my GT-I9300

 

[ilian51378]

Yes yet need to disconnect the battery to clear the codes. Also I would connect up the TT MAF or you might find it still has a cel after clearing. As for using the usdm wiring pin outs for a jdm car I'm not sure. Hopefully he can chime in and confirm the pins for you. Connecting them to the boomslang isn't an issue as the ecu will still get the signal.

Sent from my GT-I9300

I will try to clear the codes tomorrow and see if I get any luck with it. Thanks!