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No surrender!
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Dose anyone know what’s on the AAM Purple Beast car?
18g spec turbos?
Any idea what they coast (set of 2)
What about the manifolds & other requirements, not includeing fuel feeding & control.

What about the IHI Kit?

Who has "big" turbos?
What’s flowing at what cfm?

Are the 368's complete "bolt on's"
What cfm do they flow?

Here’s a thought.
If you know a link post it, & answer my question(s)
You could even do a
if you’re too lazy to put it in your own words. Copy & paste the part w/ the info I need.

Don't reply if you’re just going to post a link.
Links are good-n-all but I don't have alot of time to read through everypage. Right now I want the short side. Later, just befor i get turbos I will look at the long side of the story. I want Goods/Bads of turbos. Goods being what the flow rate is, etc.. Bads being price ;)
 

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AAM's purple car uses TD-05 18G's, stock manifolds must be replaced as you stated, but this requires the whole engine to be pulled out.:eek:

The Turbo's themselves are pretty cheap, since its a popular upgrade for DSM's, but the manifolds are the $$$ part.:p

The 368SX turbos bolt on the stock manifolds, and don't require the engine to be pulled out.

Both would need pretty much the same parts (ex. fuel system upgrade, ignition upgrade, clucth...ect, excluding manifolds which are needed for 18G's)

TD-05 18G:
Pros: Power is attainable at low boost (~700hp @ 18psi at crank), also, with these new exhaust manifolds, there are MANY turbos to choose from... TOP END
Cons: $$ of manifolds, require engine to be pulled out..., a little more lag, but you can drive around it.

368SX:
Pros: bolt right on, do not require engine pulled, less lag
Cons: need to run at very high boost to keep up (i'm guessing 700hp is around the 30psi mark:eek:.), not as much top end.

I think the 18G turbos themselves are cheaper than the 368SX's...not sure tho.

It depends on what your looking for, Reliability, or if your on a budget...:) the 18G's seem more reliable to me since they can make power at low boost levels, this wont kill your engine as much as it would running 30psi.

As for the IHI turbos, I've never seen a 3/S with those....

(Someone feel free to correct me if I'm wrong:D)
 

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perpetual college student
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how much were the 15k's ?
 

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The flow rating of a turbo (cfm at 15 psi) is almost useless for evaluation purposes without compressor flow maps. The most 3 cylinders in our cars can possibly flow (every molecule of swept volume replaced, 100% VE) is about 381 cfm. Period. Where we make big power is higher boost at higher RPM. Look at the example compressor flow maps with engine demand lines I have on my turbo upgrade web page.

http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius2/j2-2-turboguide.htm

Now does anyone have compressor flow maps for 15K turbos?
 

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Pictures are worth 1000 words.

<img height = "198" width = "325" src="http://www.hks-power.co.jp/tuning4beginner/11-2.jpg">
 

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Big Kid
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Your quest for turbos needs to be centered on how you will drive your car.

For daily street driving 15G turbos and 625cfm injectors work well

for high performance street driving 357 turbos and 720 injectors alittle more lag but very streetable

for big power 368 turbos or 18G turbos 720 injectors and Alky injection are in order but noticable lag. eventhough streetable.

if your a stoplight driver then stay with the smaller turbos. you can run low 12's with 13G turbos and alky injection.
 

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No surrender!
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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I will have to print out that page & read it over & over Jeff.

mjb440 said:
Your quest for turbos needs to be centered on how you will drive your car.
I wont be driving the car daily, but I will be driving it often.
I do alot of the stop light to stop lihgt runs for fun.
Anytime when it counts, It will be from a 10,15,or 20mph roll, but still short, 1/8th, or just over the Qtr.

I’d like to say I need the power for highway type runs at over highway speed, but realistically, I wont but a few highway runs, & I don’t like to go over the speed limit. I just like to get there fast.




Please more responces.
 

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Big Kid
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then stick to the 15 G turbos. I have had stock turbos, 13,17 and now 368 turbos. 15 g ARE THE BEST FOR THE STREET. sPEND YOUR MONEY ON ALKY INJECTION A BOOST CONTROLER AN EXHAUST AND 720 INJECTORS. YOU WILL BE HAPPY.
 

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No surrender!
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Discussion Starter #12
mjb440 said:
then stick to the 15 G turbos. I have had stock turbos, 13,17 and now 368 turbos. 15 g ARE THE BEST FOR THE STREET. sPEND YOUR MONEY ON ALKY INJECTION A BOOST CONTROLER AN EXHAUST AND 720 INJECTORS. YOU WILL BE HAPPY.
Which 15g's? The TEC 15G Turbos? other?
Hmmm
 

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heh, omnip_1, I was just going to post something just like that. I read in Turbo Mag (yeah, i know, but their tech articles are usually pretty good) something almost exactly like that statement. They were talking about how some full race N/A cars could have VE right at 100% ..... and they said that typical (I take that to mean stock) forced induction cars have in the range of 125% VE.
 

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I have the AAM set up, that is the 18G's TD05 with the headers,the same set up as the purple car including the fuel and FMIC. I also had the 15G set up as well. My advice would be to stick with the 15G set up if most of your racing is going to be on the street. Regards Charles
 

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Discussion Starter #15
CTheiss said:
I have the AAM set up, that is the 18G's TD05 with the headers,the same set up as the purple car including the fuel and FMIC. I also had the 15G set up as well. My advice would be to stick with the 15G set up if most of your racing is going to be on the street. Regards Charles
Hey do you care to share the price on the headers coasted you?
How long have you had the 18G's? Why did you leav the 15G's?

thx
will
 

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Big Kid
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There is no doubt, for street use 15G turbos aor turbos that spool quickly and flow about 420cfm are the best for general street use. Even 13G turbos are good.

But I have to admit that the 368 turbos do pull hard once you get rolling.:p
 

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omnip_1 said:
Not to rain on anyone's parade, but if you do a simple search on volumetric efficiencies you'll see everywhere that greater then 100% VE is typical with a turbocharged engine.
When you include boost into the expression of course VE can be greater than 100%. I do this on my web page below.

http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius/2-primer.htm

But the facts still remain that the volume itself is ALWAYS the same in the combustion chamber. Only the density of the air changes. Idle is low density. Boosted is high density. In this sense, the max VE is 100% and you multiply the volume by density or pressure to figure how much outside air is used. Of course, it is just easier to measure the amount of outside air at the air filter. :)

Few cars are setup up properly (fuel and knock control) to use more air on the street than 15G-sized turbos can flow. Nothing wrong with higher flowing turbos, but these can only be taken advantage of at boost levels where knock can be a real problem (20-22+ psi).
 

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No surrender!
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Discussion Starter #18
Jeff Lucius said:
Few cars are setup up properly (fuel and knock control) to use more air on the street than 15G-sized turbos can flow. Nothing wrong with higher flowing turbos, but these can only be taken advantage of at boost levels where knock can be a real problem (20-22+ psi).
While we have this going, what would be a proper set up?
To stay away from knock but yeild high power.
 

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The 18g's supposedly flow 650CFM each. This does not necessarily increase HP at the crank at lower boost levels however even at lower boost levels the 18g's can increase efficiency and therefore increase HP at the wheels. The 18g's are better suited, because of the lag, for the track when you are running very high boost (20 - 30 psi) and want to sustain your boost levels to the red line. Regards Charles
 

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Charles,

What exhaust housing are you using (8cm^2?) What pressure are you able to run on pump gas? (If at all?) What RPM range do you usually have full boost at? Is the lag signifigant or can you drive around it on the street?
 
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