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Here's a link
Realized later you were probably talking about swapping just trigger plate inside without removing CAS unit.

The link I offered doesn’t cover that, but might help if you needed to reset base timing for some reason.
 

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I don't think the trigger is the issue. I have a 2500 elite in my car and I had no issues getting it fired up once the base map was created and on a oem trigger. Trigger discs were mainly used for dsms back in the day because AEM sucked and had a hard time reading the stock triggers. Looking at my map I noticed some things that aren't correct on your setup.

Main tab
First - engine capacity should be 3000
Second - you need 6 cylinders even though your running the wrong haltech (550) I think I understand why this is at 4 though so leave it for now.
Third - max crank should be around 380. Motor isn't cranking fast enough to get your spark and to fire.

Trigger tab
First - TDC offset is 70*
Second - Rpm filter level should be set to 1
Third - pull up in home single should be (enabled) not strong.

Fuel tab
First - under fuel tab the first 7 should be checked along with post start correction.

Ignition tab
First - the first 7 should be checked in the ignition angle tables

Make those changes and get back and let me know if it fires. Make sure you set the proper injectors size as well being unlike writeable ecu's you can actually set the proper injector size and it will create the right map for that size injector. Make sure your injector latencys are correct as well. If you don't know what they are search for them it will make your life so much easier. Once Haltech creates a map from scratch once everything is setup car should fire. I honestly think the fact you have the wrong ecu will make more problems then its worth being your trying to patch stuff together that the ecu doesn't understand. May be easier to just get a 2500 and sell that one. I have my car up and running after i had everything setup. Your going to have to make sure all your sensors are setup as well. Map sensor I am guessing your using off the Haltech, Make sure your iat sensor is plugged into the ecu as well. Wideband must be put in the ecu as well as the car will want to use the wideband to run.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Yea im wishing i had bought a 750 at least but. Hindsight is 20/20. ill see what i can do about getting it running on this ecu and then if i cant. Them ill buy the other ecu
 

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Hardest thing I had to deal with my first time setting up my Haltech was getting settings correct and the correct calibrations for the iat, coolant temp sensor, injector latencys and getting my fans to work other then that once you get all that data in the car will recognize oh yeah it has this stuff and starts to act normal minus the tune. I still think that your coil setup is what is going to screw you on this being your not running a 4 cylinder and the ecu isn't going to know what to do with the other cylinders. I would also double check your timing and make sure it is spot on as well. I know I had a hell of a time on my evo and I was like a tooth off and the ignition wasn't correctly set in the Haltech and it made a huge difference when it idled and when tuning. Good luck with it looking forward to seeing what the car decides to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Thanks for the input. You and me both, hopefully i can get it started soon. Ill work on getting tje better later. I honestly just didnt have the funds. Buying a new motor, exhaust and aftermarket ecu. Along with the few odds parts is expensive lol.
 

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Still no spark I would check your igniter to see if is ok. If it does not check out replace it. Have you verified that you have no spark? Did you take the #1 plug wire off and hold it to a screwdrive to verify?
 

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I admire your tenacity and all the help folks are giving.
 
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