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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

Today might be the last day I drive my '95 VR4 for a long while. There has been a very loud and noticeable grinding noise coming from the transmission (when in gear or in neutral with the clutch let out) ever since I got the car, and it goes away whenever I press in the clutch, which rules out the TOB I think. I suspect the noise is coming from the input shaft bearing, but I'm sort of confused which bearing it actually is, since there's the end case input shaft bearing on Rvenge
and this completely different Input Shaft Bearing from 3SX.

What I'm trying to figure out is which one is usually the source of this terrible rattling/grinding? As everyone else with this problem always says, it sounds like there are marbles bouncing around in the transmission.

Additionally, I figure when I take the transmission out to replace that bearing, I'll replace my SPEC Stage 2 clutch with something else even though it only has 10-20k on it. Ive been reading that the springs on the hub of the clutch break off like nothing, so I probably won't be purchasing from that company anymore. What is the preferred brand for our cars that will take more of a beating than the OEM clutch?

Thanks in advance

EDIT: I forgot to add that over the past day or two I've felt that the clutch has stopped fully disengaging so the car will still lurch forward when it's in first gear with the clutch fully depressed. As soon as I lift the clutch pedal even a centimeter I can already feel the clutch grabbing as I nearly stall. Also, it is extremely hard to switch into and out of gears because the clutch won't fully disengage.
 
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A lot of times it's the springs rattling in the clutch. Drop the trans and see if they are loose.

The rivets can also get loose that hold the center of the clutch together and the whole spring cage can rattle.


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I think you might have two problems. With respect to the rattle/noise, my car has almost always had that. Even after i had my transmission rebuilt, it was still there, and i was told this is fairly common/normal (from Kormex trans, who specifically rebuilds these transmissions). It was somewhat dependent on fluid as well. Right now i don't really hear it at all with 30W in there. Same idea though that it goes away when the clutch is pushed in. I also read numerous threads that other people have the same symptoms and its benign. My transmission has had it for about 100k without issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
A lot of times it's the springs rattling in the clutch. Drop the trans and see if they are loose.

The rivets can also get loose that hold the center of the clutch together and the whole spring cage can rattle.


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The strange thing that I noticed yesterday is that the clutch pedal seems to operate normally when the car is still cold. I assume it’s possible that there’s air getting into the lines somewhere but I’ve never really had success at bleeding it without the help of someone else.

Additionally, as much as I’d love to drop the trans and have a look, I don’t really think I have the ability or competence (or patience) to do it myself, and sending it somewhere is out of the picture because I’m a broke college student who didn’t get a stimulus check ):
Any tips to make taking the trans out a little easier? I’m sure a lift would be a great help, but is it necessary?

I think you might have two problems. With respect to the rattle/noise, my car has almost always had that. Even after i had my transmission rebuilt, it was still there, and i was told this is fairly common/normal (from Kormex trans, who specifically rebuilds these transmissions). It was somewhat dependent on fluid as well. Right now i don't really hear it at all with 30W in there. Same idea though that it goes away when the clutch is pushed in. I also read numerous threads that other people have the same symptoms and its benign. My transmission has had it for about 100k without issues.
Hmm okay, I’ll have to try switching to 30W. Does the brand matter? Do you have any suggestions?
 

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Hmm okay, I’ll have to try switching to 30W. Does the brand matter? Do you have any suggestions?
Just choose a full synthetic 30W motor oil. I forgot what brand i used, it has been a while. I think @oldmaninsaline used Royal purple recently and loved the change/improvement in shifting with the switch in fluid. It's really the viscosity change that matters.
 

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Just choose a full synthetic 30W motor oil. I forgot what brand i used, it has been a while. I think @oldmaninsaline used Royal purple recently and loved the change/improvement in shifting with the switch in fluid. It's really the viscosity change that matters.
OMG, it's the difference between night and day even if I have to change it every 10000 miles. I did use RP 30w. I AM going to drain it after 2000 miles just to see how it looks and look at any metal shavings. The stock fluid produced a LOT of shavings.

2nd to 3rd is like it should be, even reverse doesn't need the hunt n seek any more.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Just choose a full synthetic 30W motor oil. I forgot what brand i used...
I’m sorry, motor oil? For the transmission? I don’t have a lot of experience in transmission work so maybe I misinterpreted what you said but I just want to make sure i’m buying the right stuff so I don’t waste my money. When I read other threads about changing trans fluid, I see people throwing around the terms “GL-4” and “GL-5” but i’m not exactly sure what they mean and I also see that people use different fluids between the rear axle, the t-case, and the tranny itself. It’s all a little confusing to me, so I apologize
 

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OMG, it's the difference between night and day even if I have to change it every 10000 miles. I did use RP 30w. I AM going to drain it after 2000 miles just to see how it looks and look at any metal shavings. The stock fluid produced a LOT of shavings.

2nd to 3rd is like it should be, even reverse doesn't need the hunt n seek any more.
Okay, I’ll have to switch my fluids ASAP. I think I used Lucas the last time and right now it shifts so terribly
 

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I’m sorry, motor oil? For the transmission? I don’t have a lot of experience in transmission work so maybe I misinterpreted what you said but I just want to make sure i’m buying the right stuff so I don’t waste my money. When I read other threads about changing trans fluid, I see people throwing around the terms “GL-4” and “GL-5” but i’m not exactly sure what they mean and I also see that people use different fluids between the rear axle, the t-case, and the tranny itself. It’s all a little confusing to me, so I apologize
Correct, motor oil, like you cold put into your engine. I had my transmission rebuilt by Kormex Transmission in Ontario, Calfiornia about 50k miles ago. The told me do not use anything higher weight than 30W engine oil. After about 30k miles i tried to change to the fluid kit that 3sx recommends (redline), and shifting got significantly worse. I went back to 30W motor oil as they originally suggested. Other people have similar experiences on stock, non-rebuilt trans, particularly in colder climates (where 75W-90 shifts poorly when cold). I also talked to Chai at C&A (California folks will know who this is) and he said he had never heard of it for 3000gt (only older trucks used to do this), but agreed it was an improvement, since he had the car at the time for a clutch replacement.

EDIT: This is only for the transmission. Make sure you use the right stuff for transfer case and diff, namely the higher weight oils and shockproof, such as that recommended by 3sx.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Correct, motor oil, like you cold put into your engine. I had my transmission rebuilt by Kormex Transmission in Ontario, Calfiornia about 50k miles ago. The told me do not use anything higher weight than 30W engine oil. After about 30k miles i tried to change to the fluid kit that 3sx recommends (redline), and shifting got significantly worse. I went back to 30W motor oil as they originally suggested.

EDIT: This is only for the transmission. Make sure you use the right stuff for transfer case and diff, namely the higher weight oils and shockproof, such as that recommended by 3sx.
Wow okay, thank you for the clarification! I’ve never heard of anyone putting motor oil in their transmission so that’s why I needed you to clarify. I think I read somewhere that the trans takes 2.4 quarts, is that correct?
 

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Yeah, I wasn't 100% sure about using motor oil but figured I do mostly city driving and that damned 2 - 3 shift was getting on my nerves. I mean, the car has 38k original miles. So I tried royal purple but I figure M1 would work, possibly even better.

My trying the RP is more of an experiment on my part. Supposed to be great stuff, etc. Like I said, I'm going to pull it at 1000 miles and see what it looks like. The shavings in the stock fluid was the worst I've ever seen so obviously the hard 2-3 shift was doing damage. See this pic.
 
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The lines between atf, mtf, and motor oil and not hard lines. The viscosity range when accounting for temperature is actually close. A 5w30 motor oil at trans temps is about a 70w80. Atf Dexron 3 type fluid is about a 20 weight motor oil.

I have been running redline d4 which is an atf type oil and it's working great with the carbon synchros.

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If you’re hearing a rattle and your clutch springs are NOT loose. This could be your problem




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The viscosity range when accounting for temperature is actually close. A 5w30 motor oil at trans temps is about a 70w80.
Can you clarify what you mean by this? A 5w30 will be 5 weight at 0F and 30 at 210F.
 

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Engine oils and gear oils use different scales. When you put them on the same scale they are actually quite close.

 

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Engine oils and gear oils use different scales. When you put them on the same scale they are actually quite close.
Thanks, exactly what i was looking for.
 

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If you’re hearing a rattle and your clutch springs are NOT loose. This could be your problem




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Great video (and experiment) by Drgonzo, can't believe I've never seen that. If you're reading this - thanks for that, very interesting...pretty much the sound my car has made forever, that I could never figure out.
 
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