Just bought a 96 3000GT. Automatic trans problems the next day. Drove about 3 miles and trans felt like it went in neutral. No drive or reverse. Had it towed in and that night tried it again. Now car will only pull for about 100 yards then goes into neutral. When it goes out there is only neutral. Any ideas on what could be wrong with it?
Transmission problem - Automatic transmission
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Have you checked the fluid level? It sounds like it's losing pressure. It could also be a plugged filter.. But if that is the case, it's probably plugged with clutch material... If so, and you get really lucky, it's the end clutch that came apart.. Then you could repair it in the car..
If the fluid level is right, I'd pull the pan and check for clutch debris.. maybe cut the filter open and look for the same.. If you find clutch material, or evidence of a plugged filter, you could change the fluid and filter and take it for a test drive.. If all the gears but OD work properly, put an end clutch in it.. If you have a problem in any other gear, It's toast.. Needs to come out and be rebuilt..
Or you could just decide to pull it now, rebuild it, have a shift kit put in it, and not have to worry about it anymore....
If the fluid level is right, I'd pull the pan and check for clutch debris.. maybe cut the filter open and look for the same.. If you find clutch material, or evidence of a plugged filter, you could change the fluid and filter and take it for a test drive.. If all the gears but OD work properly, put an end clutch in it.. If you have a problem in any other gear, It's toast.. Needs to come out and be rebuilt..
Or you could just decide to pull it now, rebuild it, have a shift kit put in it, and not have to worry about it anymore....
Changed the fluid and filter today. The transmission works great in all gears except overdrive. When you engage overdrive it goes back to neutral. No metal in the pan but the filter was extremely heavy. What is an end clutch and how do you put it in?
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I experienced the exact same thing... drive it easy and start saving your money because despite how it drives now, past experiences have told me and many others your tranny has cancer and will die.
30,000 mile transmission from Japan at a place in Chicago for 500 bucks. hold up great and beats a $2000 rebuild; 'cause it's comin.
30,000 mile transmission from Japan at a place in Chicago for 500 bucks. hold up great and beats a $2000 rebuild; 'cause it's comin.
Just curious, how long did it take you and did you remove the transmission from the vehicle?
Michael
Hey what is the name of the place in Chicago you bought your transmission from? I am in need of one as well. OD went out first and now it slips into neutral after driving for a few minutes. Had fluid replaced but it is still doing the same thing. 95 3000GT auto SL.
Thanks!
Thanks!
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This is transmission info. YOU NEED TO SAVE THIS INFO AS WE RESEARCHED FOR NEARLY A YEAR AND COULDN'T FIND THE ANSWER ANYWHERE. I have a 1993 Mitsubishi 3000GT SL AT FWD with 180,000 miles. Last Oct changed the tranny fluid/filter. It was brown but not burnt and magnets were normal. The filter wasn't Mitsubishi and the fluid was from auto zone but was supposedly equivalent to SP III.....it wasn't and neither were the filter. After the car went into limp mode in Dec, we changed the tranny fluid to SP III from Mitsubishi and put a Mitsubishi filter in and this took it out of limp mode but it still wouldn't go into OD. On New Year's Eve we changed out the end clutch and that didn't work. After much reading we could never find what the problem was. So I found a transmission and while we were exchanging out the valve body we discovered the problem on my car. The kickdown band was broke. We exchanged the transmissions and it runs GREAT!
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also using a synthetic and a friction modifier will more than likely help more that just regular fressh sp3...
lubegard black is the one I speak of. It is expensive to do, but worth it for the piece of mind...
nearly 150$ for to do the whole job... including filters.
lubegard black is the one I speak of. It is expensive to do, but worth it for the piece of mind...
nearly 150$ for to do the whole job... including filters.
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LOL...
SPIII, and ATF+4 are both nearly identical highly friction modified synthetic fluids... Why do you think your concoction is a better choice?
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To me I guess its better piece of mind knowing your running the correct stuff needed if your going to go from a conventional sp3 to a synthetic...
I run Mobil 1 synthetic ATF+4.
I do not have any experience with using a sp3 in the F4... With the lack of knowledge of the power capabilities of the ATX here...
I had to go with other means of finding information and experience on running it in a higher HP application.
Those DSM guys know there shit... the weak atx that is spoken of here on 3si and other sites... Makes well over 4 and 500 whp on the dsm's
The guy that runs IPT his name is John, I am sure you have heard of him... His word is golden when it comes to the ATX world...
I am just taking his advice. A few years ago I called his shop and talked to him about what I was doing... He thought it was pretty cool and glad to see people taking his advice, I did not go into detail about why or how he knows...
I just did what I was told in order to make MY atx handle the extra stress of the power.
So for a non turbo car... then i guess it doesnt matter what fluid you run so long as it works right? I am running a TT motor on my atx and want it to last as long as it possibly can.
... A little different ...
PLEASE THOUGH... dont take it as being a smart ass...
How about you enlighten me, Why would you NOT run a modifier if your going from a conventional SP3 to a synthetic ATF+4?
to me its the same as running the wetterwater additive in you water... some say it works, some say its snake oil.
I run Mobil 1 synthetic ATF+4.
I do not have any experience with using a sp3 in the F4... With the lack of knowledge of the power capabilities of the ATX here...
I had to go with other means of finding information and experience on running it in a higher HP application.
Those DSM guys know there shit... the weak atx that is spoken of here on 3si and other sites... Makes well over 4 and 500 whp on the dsm's
The guy that runs IPT his name is John, I am sure you have heard of him... His word is golden when it comes to the ATX world...
I am just taking his advice. A few years ago I called his shop and talked to him about what I was doing... He thought it was pretty cool and glad to see people taking his advice, I did not go into detail about why or how he knows...
I just did what I was told in order to make MY atx handle the extra stress of the power.
So for a non turbo car... then i guess it doesnt matter what fluid you run so long as it works right? I am running a TT motor on my atx and want it to last as long as it possibly can.
... A little different ...
PLEASE THOUGH... dont take it as being a smart ass...
How about you enlighten me, Why would you NOT run a modifier if your going from a conventional SP3 to a synthetic ATF+4?
to me its the same as running the wetterwater additive in you water... some say it works, some say its snake oil.
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I don't think you're being a smart ass at all... It's a discussion.
I've made my living building transmissions for over 30 years, had a several year period where my primary form of advertising was having my name on the side of every drag car I could sponsor...
I don't know John personally, just know of him, but from my perspective, nobody is a god, we all have our opinions and ways of doing things...
SPIII by definition is a synthetic oil... So is ATF+4. There is no such thing as a "conventional" fluid that meets those specs. Friction modifiers have nothing to do with the base stock of the oil... They are part of the additive package that controls the "grip" the clutches have when they engage. High quality synthetic base stocks often need less friction modifiers, not more. Friction modifiers are designed to reduce clutch chatter, and allow lock up clutches to run in a partial locked up state(always slipping slightly) without chatter or grab. They by definition reduce grip, not increase it. You walk a fine line choosing a fluid that hooks up well, and won't chatter. When you start building high pressure race units, the clutch and band timing is a huge factor, and you have make sure you don't get bind-up between shifts, or slide-bump shifts. Either one will kill your trans. the friction properties of the fluid will play a factor in how that all plays out. Trying to make a race trans last all season when pushed to it's limits is no joke... You need to pay attention to all the factors, and understand what they do.
Believe it or not, one of the most popular fluid choices in the world of real race units,(stuff that has to hold 2000+hp) is John Deere hydraulic fluid..
I've made my living building transmissions for over 30 years, had a several year period where my primary form of advertising was having my name on the side of every drag car I could sponsor...
I don't know John personally, just know of him, but from my perspective, nobody is a god, we all have our opinions and ways of doing things...
SPIII by definition is a synthetic oil... So is ATF+4. There is no such thing as a "conventional" fluid that meets those specs. Friction modifiers have nothing to do with the base stock of the oil... They are part of the additive package that controls the "grip" the clutches have when they engage. High quality synthetic base stocks often need less friction modifiers, not more. Friction modifiers are designed to reduce clutch chatter, and allow lock up clutches to run in a partial locked up state(always slipping slightly) without chatter or grab. They by definition reduce grip, not increase it. You walk a fine line choosing a fluid that hooks up well, and won't chatter. When you start building high pressure race units, the clutch and band timing is a huge factor, and you have make sure you don't get bind-up between shifts, or slide-bump shifts. Either one will kill your trans. the friction properties of the fluid will play a factor in how that all plays out. Trying to make a race trans last all season when pushed to it's limits is no joke... You need to pay attention to all the factors, and understand what they do.
Believe it or not, one of the most popular fluid choices in the world of real race units,(stuff that has to hold 2000+hp) is John Deere hydraulic fluid..
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I have read about people using a partial mix of the john deere and redline race atf.
Im very glad you responded how you did, I read your stuff and take in as much knowledge from the elders that I can retain.
Even though I have nothing internally upgraded I have tried to do everything possible to make mine as "dependable" as possible...
I have not put many miles on it but it seems to be holding up rather well.
Cooler, shiftkit, endclutch external filter... New TC when everything was wrapped up.
Personally, if I hadnt built my car like I had... I would have used regular stuff.
But now that I am starting to get to where I am a little more comfortable brake boosting and launching... I am wanting to start pushing it a little more.
I bet you could add alot to something I and maybe a few others are curious about... shift box settings.
I was under the impression though that sp3 was a conventional "dino" type oil.
Im very glad you responded how you did, I read your stuff and take in as much knowledge from the elders that I can retain.
Even though I have nothing internally upgraded I have tried to do everything possible to make mine as "dependable" as possible...
I have not put many miles on it but it seems to be holding up rather well.
Cooler, shiftkit, endclutch external filter... New TC when everything was wrapped up.
Personally, if I hadnt built my car like I had... I would have used regular stuff.
But now that I am starting to get to where I am a little more comfortable brake boosting and launching... I am wanting to start pushing it a little more.
I bet you could add alot to something I and maybe a few others are curious about... shift box settings.
I was under the impression though that sp3 was a conventional "dino" type oil.
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SPII was a highly friction modified conventional blend... Pretty much the same as what ATF+3 was. That is what the factory fill would have been in our cars. SPIII and ATF+4 are the newer long lasting synthetic versions, with pretty much the same additive package.
I really don't have much experience with shift boxes... Most guys with these transmissions, whether DSM or 3S, tend to be pretty cheap. Mostly what you see out there is max pressure switch controlled...
If it were me, I think the best option for engine and trans, would be to control it all with an AEM series II...
I really don't have much experience with shift boxes... Most guys with these transmissions, whether DSM or 3S, tend to be pretty cheap. Mostly what you see out there is max pressure switch controlled...
If it were me, I think the best option for engine and trans, would be to control it all with an AEM series II...
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lmao, it woulda been cheaper to get the getrag and convert it...
Shift delay (milla seconds) was what I was mostly refering to... I will make a thread sometime about it...
Shift delay (milla seconds) was what I was mostly refering to... I will make a thread sometime about it...
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