Mitsubishi 3000GT & Dodge Stealth Forum banner

1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
227 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
the clunk from the rear end has gradually gotten a little bit rougher and at idle, a mild grinding noise sometimes from the passenger side front when clutch is out but not when clutch is in. was told it may be throw out bearing, what else could it be and what should i do? thanks in advance.
 

·
BFA
Joined
·
1,180 Posts
The grinding isn't so bad....

i had a rebuild and it still made a little grinding noise when the clutch is out, but I heard that was just the input shaft from the tranny ot the trans axle making noise. I don;t know anyhting about the rear end clunk though. I know when my tranny was going out, it was making a noise that sounded like I had a plastic bag stuck under there and flapping in the wind. I actually thought it was a plastic bag stuck under there while I was driving. To me, the input shaft noise sounds kinda like a hollow scraping noise. Does this kinda describe the grinding noise you are talking about?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
227 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
i guess you could say it sounds sort of like a hollow grinding sound. its sort of like on and off like grind..grind...grind...but pretty quick like a lifter tick at idle. it sounds like its coming from the front above the tranny and clutch, i'm just worried because any tranny problem = lots of dough
did your mods cause your tranny to go? looks like a lot of power, how's the new tranny holding up?
 

·
STOCK ??? HELL NO...!!!
Joined
·
3,475 Posts
The problem is in your drive shaft, more especific you universal joint (the joints that joint the front, midle and rear sections of the drive shaft). When these joints are bad they start grinding until they break down, also that's part of the stump noise in the back. The bad news is that Mitsubishi (just like the tranny) does not sells these joints. What I did was, go to a machine shop, took the old joints out, when to a local parts dealer and got the must similar they could find. Install them and put a welding spot in a cross type just to make sure.
The more sound solution is to get a Carbon Fiber Drive Shaft (CFDS), but the prices still a little bit high for that mod.

Recommendation; go under your car and twist your D.S. by hand, hold the front section and try to move the midle section, then hold the midle section and try to move the rear section... if you see excesive movement, it is like I just told you, the joints...

I hope this helps...

El Boricua
[email protected]
 

·
BFA
Joined
·
1,180 Posts
My car was mostly stock when the tranny went out

I reason my tranny went out was because it was leaking. I thikn that is probably the case with most of them. I once heard something about the metal used for the casing is somewhat porous. My tranny now is ASS. When I got the rebuild, they used the same casing I believe, and they said they just painted it. a month after I got my car back, I noticed it leaking already, and I took it in, and the shop said their tranny guy was pissed because someone had tried to pry off some cap on the side of the tranny, and blamed it on whoever changed my oil last. Too bad I never had my oil changed in that month after he did the work on it. I only had a 4 month warranty on it too. But they gunked it up with some sealant and it was ok for a little while. Now I have it leaking from the input shaft I think, a stripped drain plug (from some idiot I got my oil changed at who drained my tranny on accident, wasting about $30 in fresh Redline Fluid), and a cracked fill plug. I rigged a tube from my fill hole up to the engine bay so I can add fluid wihtout lifting my car, and I do it often now, and leave puddles of tranny fluid everywhere. I only have 2 months to get away with this, and then I'm pulling the tranny, and my car will sit for 6 months while I'm away, and I will have a new 6 speed conversion waiting for me when i get back. I would recommend the same.
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top