actualy from what I have seen the marks are suposed to almost be straigh across from each other. When the one on the left is in its current position the one on the right should be just a notch lower. Look on the head and see where the marks are suposed to line up. I hope it has not done any damage. Wow.
For each head, if you look carefully on the INSIDE of the sprockets (on the same teeth as the white marks) you will see a crosshair etched into each one. These should perfectly match up to the two indentations at the end of the rocker covers as shown by this picture from the shop manual: http://www.gate.net/~mitsvr4/tmarks.jpg
I don't think you are on the TDC with the cam and crank. Every other rotation will align the cams. At least I hope this is what has happened for your sake since looking at the pic the cams look as though they should be reversed. That is since both cams rotate clockwise the one on the left should be about eight teeth back to the left, and the right cam about where the left cam is. So it is more then likely that you don't have the cams and crank all lined up. Then again I am REALLY tired
I took it out tonight and ran it till it wouldn't go any faster and it only went up to 120mph. This is a N/A but it should still hit 140. There was plenty left (2500 RPMs). I just changed the fuel filter today and the car seems to run even worse. It now wants to stall when at a stop. If you rev it at a stop it will stall. The timing has been this way for 20k miles and it ran alright until now. Maybe it's because I changed the filter and did something wrong??? Any ideas?
I will try to line up the marks next time I get a chance since if there was any damage it was already done by now. Something is making a whistling noise (I think it's one of the acessory belts). That's another thing to add to the list of shit to do.
If you turn the engine slightly counter clockwise, to where these two marks on both banks are are even with each other, the timing marks on the other side of the sprockets should align with the marks on the heads and the crank mark should be at 0.
If doesn't run good, would be interesting to see if there are any error codes recorded.
Go to RADIO SHACK, get a 470 ohm 1/2 watt resistor, an LED and a small female spade lug.
For a 91, simply connect wire from chassis ground through a 470 ohm resistor to the cathode (-) of an LED and the anode (+) of the LED to the female spade lug and plug to pin 1, ( upper left pin on diagnostic connector ). LED will continually flash error code anytime the key is on. If flashes on/off equally, there is no error code. If it flashes longs and shorts, count the longs as a 10s digit and the shorts as a 1s digit, ya got your code. If you have more than 1 code, It will display them one after the other with a pause in between.
The female spade connector is not intended for the narrow pin in the diagnostic connector, but one side of the spade on the pin will make a good firm connection. The polarity on the LED is indicated in 3 ways. The (-) pin is the short one. It also is indicated by the flat spot on the base of the plastic lense. The (-) emement, the cathode, can be recognized by being the larger, boot looking, element inside the LED.
If the LED has pigtail wires, the black one is -. Would also recomend purchasing the inexpensive soldering kit, and a bit of black tape.
Mount it in your dash and you will always know what the codes, if any, are!
Hans I just went thru this abiut two months ago and it is possible you have the same thing my car just started to run like crap for no reason at all lost lots of power and it would try to stall at idle.Turns out my tentioner was going and the belt had jumped several teeth my mechanic could not believe that I had not damaged the valves hope this helps
I just looked at the timing belt again and it seems alright. I found out that the whistling noise was coming from the tensioner on one of the drive belts. I just sprayed some WD40 on it and it stopped (temporary fix). I found some loose wire connections and tightened them up. If it persists to stall then I will have to go get a fuel pressure test done. It only started happening right after I changed the fuel filter and I did everything by the book for that. I'm going up to Conn. tomorrow so I'll see how the trip goes. I also just got a new transmission (automatic) and it isn't shifting right so I have to take that back to get looked at too. Maybe the 2 things are related. Thanks for the help.
Dave, when I saw your post above, I set the options on the web site to go back 100 pages, and found your original post about your problem on page 21, dated in late September. In it, one of the first things I said your mechanic should check was the timing marks.
What happened? You told me he checked them and they were fine. Is the car OK now?
Heres my quote from that post:
"Prior to taking the intake plenum and/or valve cover off, MAKE SURE your mechanic checks the alignment of the timing marks on the camshaft just in case the timing belt has jumped some teeth. If this were the case, your piston may have collided with the valves, busted some loose, etc., as the engine is an INTERFERENCE engine, meaning that if the timing belt breaks or jumps some teeth on one of the camshaft sprockets, the valves can collide with the pistons on the compression stroke. A timing belt being off a few teeth on one of the camshaft sprockets MAY NOT show up on a timing test.
I'm REALLY curious about this, because I stopped giving some advice on problems because I began to doubt whether or not I should.
A forum community dedicated to all Mitsubishi 3000GT and Dodge Stealth owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, modifications, VR4 turbo upgrades, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!