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Discussion Starter #1
Is the job really that tedious? I've seen people on the forum post crazy prices for the job, I live here in NY and my mechanic charges $100 per hour. Are the VR-4's any different or is the job just as hard on either one? I'm hoping prices I saw were talking about VR-4s and not SLs.
 

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Not that hard, if you have the parts, the time, and the tools you can do it, did it based off of forum help and you tube videos when I was 17.
 

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Wheee! 2 wheels is fun!
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It is not really difficult. It is not really tedious. It DOES have some special steps that arent typical for many timing belt engines. It is a little bit annoying because of the small amount of room between the inner fender and then engine covers.

Add in a water pump, cam and crank seals as part of the job (and they should be!) and the price does go up.

-SP
 

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If you've never done it before I recommend getting the cam lockers so they don't move. I also highly recommend replacing the water pump. My factory one started leaking at 35k and the replacement one I put in at 60k locked up because I didn't replace it at 120k. Luckily I shut the engine off on time.

I also recommend, after reassembly, turning the engine over a couple of times by hand using a wrench on your crank bolt to make sure the valves don't hit the piston in case you accidentally get the timing off. I've done countless belts over the past 20 years and I do that on any interference engine even if I am 100% positive I got the timing right. Something else may happen like your tensioner fail after install (happened to me once).

A lot of places charge an arm and leg for doing it and most of the time they mark up parts quite a bit.

As an example, the Lexus dealer wanted $1,200 to do the timing belt and water pump on our ES330 but I did it myself for $300. The parts for my GT cost me around $250 with a new water pump and tensioner.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I've never done anything to a car by myself before really, but I will be attempting to do most of the basic stuff in the 120K I have coming up in a couple of months. Its good to know I can come to you guys on here for advice and tips, thanks :)

Anyone got any ideas on what else I could do to make my GT a bit faster and more fun to drive? Its my daily driver so I'm not thinking about any crazy mods.
 

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Based on your skill level I think an after market down pipe or long tube header paired with a tt plenum will suit your needs. While you are replacing the belts look into a light weight crank pulley, I am not telling you to do that upgrade just advising you to search it as it is a mixed opinion.
 

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I just ordered the downpipes and free flow cat from 3SX but haven't installed them yet so I'm not sure how much they help. Here is the link to their test results 3SX Performance - 3SX Non-Turbo Exhaust Comparison - Mitsubishi 3000GT / Dodge Stealth Parts

Jesters makes a plug and play Chromed ECU. I put one in my NA and it instantly runs better even without tuning. I'm waiting for my new injectors to tune it.

K&N air filter helps a lot says me and many others :)

As TMR_STEALTH said, light weight pulleys help, but if you get an underdrive pully your alternator will not spin as fast, especially idling... plus you will have to get different belts and remember the part numbers when you replace them. If you have a massive sound system it may be starved for power. 3SX has the full size light weight pulleys. This will also save you the trouble of your harmonic balancer coming off on the highway. You lose that and your A/C and alternator stop working.
On a side note, the lighter your pulley and flywheel are the easier your engine can spin but also your engine will drop RPM faster making shifting a bit harder. Not that swapping out just your pulley will do much but I've read a lot of people say swapping the flywheel out on a daily driver is not a good idea. Probably TMI but until I read that I was considering a light weight flywheel.

I'm planning on sending my throttle body off for a rebuild soon but that's more for efficiency since the seals can go out and they get pretty dirty in all the ports.

A couple of other things I am planning on for mine is the phenolic spacers for the plenum and throttle body. That is supposed to keep the air going into the engine cooler and more efficient since cool air is more dense than hot air (cool air = more air at one time).
 

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not hard if you got the right tools. just watch and re-watch some youtube guides a few times to know what to do.

the only "hard" part for me was getting some stuck corroded bolts off because of the tight spaces.

do it yourself and you know how to do it next time with confidence and your wallet will be thicker.

just make sure the timing marks line up to the arrows on the valve covers after two revolutions
 

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Yeah I have both the light weight fly wheel and pulley and it is a shit load of fun! Not my DD though, just a weekend warrior for the summer. Coil overs are the shit too, top two best mods are cams and coil overs. Careful with the cams though you will lose a nice amount of vacuum at idle which will make any bad seals more pronounced causing a shit idle.
 

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I so want coil overs, but the body is first for me. Next tax return I'm ordering as much as possible (fenders, bumpers, hood, side skirts) and getting it painted. The fenders and hood will be some serious weight reduction :D

I didn't realize that about the cams. That's good to know.
 

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Cams are worth it though don't get me wrong. I took my buddy for a ride in it and when the cams kicked in at 3800 rpms it pushes you in the seat and he said it feels the same as his turbo eclipse when the turbo kicks in.
 

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Yea I've read that if you do enough to an SL like that it can be as peppy as a stock VR4. Cams are on the to-do list. I just wasn't aware of the vacuum issue. I'll probably have my TB rebuild by then though so that's one less thing to worry about. Thanks for the great info TMR_STEALTH.

ok I'm un-hijacking this thread now :)
 

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Just pm me for more info man
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
I just ordered the downpipes and free flow cat from 3SX but haven't installed them yet so I'm not sure how much they help. Here is the link to their test results 3SX Performance - 3SX Non-Turbo Exhaust Comparison*-*Mitsubishi 3000GT*/*Dodge Stealth Parts

Jesters makes a plug and play Chromed ECU. I put one in my NA and it instantly runs better even without tuning. I'm waiting for my new injectors to tune it.

K&N air filter helps a lot says me and many others :)
I actually just got that setup installed today. I got the catback system too, I only drove it back today from the mechanic for about 5 minutes so I can't really tell if theres a difference in power yet. There is a HUGE difference in sound though lol. My ears were ringing at first for a little bit, its not that loud but this is the first time I did anything exhaust wise to a car. I like it though, it makes the car feel meaner and stronger. I can put up a vid tomorrow if you want.

Based on your skill level I think an after market down pipe or long tube header paired with a tt plenum will suit your needs. While you are replacing the belts look into a light weight crank pulley, I am not telling you to do that upgrade just advising you to search it as it is a mixed opinion.
Like I told opy, I got a new catback, cat, and down pipe today, my stock downpipe was actually rotting when my mechanic pulled it down. I didn't go with the headers cause I had already spent a lot on the catback, but if it really does make that much of a difference I guess I could take out the down pipe in the future. How does the plenum affect performance? Can pair a TT plenum on stock headers or will that take some modification?

Yeah I have both the light weight fly wheel and pulley and it is a shit load of fun! Not my DD though, just a weekend warrior for the summer. Coil overs are the shit too, top two best mods are cams and coil overs. Careful with the cams though you will lose a nice amount of vacuum at idle which will make any bad seals more pronounced causing a shit idle.
Is the flywheel worth putting in a DD? I use this car to get to work and college, works like 5 minutes away and schools 20 minutes away. If its good for performance and fun I'm down, but I just don't want to spend money on something that would wear out rather quickly from daily use.
 

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The plenum goes on the intake side of you motor, and will work well with your down pipe. The plenum will add a bit of power and change your power band to be more useful, about 50-70$ on ebay
 

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I agree that putting headers on later is an option. I'm waiting on a new motor to put headers on.

The flywheel might be worth it when you finally install a clutch but unless you are doing that then I wouldn't wirry about it. Also it makes it slightly harder to shift since the engine spins down faster.
 

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Yeah I put the flywheel in with a stage 2 clutch, I love the flywheel though a well worth upgrade.
 

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By the way I want to add, the cheapest most fun mod I have done out of everything, solid motor mounts, the car shakes like it has a v8 and wheel hop is gone, plus they are like 120$.

So bang for buck those are the best
 
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