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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi

Want to share and get feedback on my story of my slipped timing belt.

To make a short story, i decide to take my stealth this morning to go work (do this around 5 time a year) and leave the kid at kindergarten for the morning. After work got pick up my son start the road to get home. It's rural area with a lot of strecht with nobody except deer and corn.I drive through a villlage 50km/h WOT a little to reach 90Km/h.

My son in the backseat scream again again :)...I said wait 2 minute i'll stop and made a real launch.(0-100Km/h in a 90Km/h road) . I slow down put in second gear to slow down. put in neutral at ±20km/h. Suddendly the car die ..

I try to start and hear a strange sound like something spin strange. I tell to my son wait i go check underhood first look all look good. battery , radiator, no smoke.. I check at the timing belt area everything look ok i check belt for PWST i noticed a orange color from the lower timing cover....

$/%?%? it's a pulley and a bolt poping out of the cover


You remember the kid (4 year old) in the story ...i hear Dad go go...i go at the passenger side window and tell him the beast (it'S the name he give for my stealth) need help to finish the road to get home .He told me i need to go at the bathroom ...Ahhh..damn..

Nothing around except the village at around 2Km . I found some scott towel and you imagine the rest.... Next step i told him i dont have the phone mom have it...

He scream NOOOOOO....we will dies here....... Me: Heinn... no no we will walk down the road to call a towing ..some cry and scream.. And go take the wallet... I look far on the road a car Yeah..!!


I go at the rear of the car with my son and show thumbs up , i saw the minivan looking and pass ....and stop... I start walking to reach the car a guys go out and tell me you are lucky.

I know not much people at this hours pass here.... He tell take the kid and the seat for him i will drop you at the village to call towing. Skip a step..wait call insurance het towing ..etc..etc..

After 45 minutes of wait , the smart guy wait with me and return at my car they told me you are lucky the kid are with you without him you would still on the roadside with your sporty car..


!!!!(in my head ASSHOLE!!!) I told him him very lucky... Since waiting the towing my son ask me who is towing i told him the truck that will lift the car and put on is back to take it home.


Wait...wait...remember we are in out of nowhere the towing start at nearly 45 minute... The towing finally arrive talk..etc...put the seat for the kid on the truck jump in seatbelt everything,,,

The guy are really helphful and cool. He ask everyone one ready my son scream yeah Mr towing.... We all strat to laugh...:)

Finally arrive at home drop the car on the garage and leave here for the rest of the summer , no money to fix right now, They sits since ±2 years in the garage waiting love and time, (kids first)


And here start my project to fix by myself , because im able ,skilled enough and motivated :) I found some good member local to get info and help...and some good contact here on 3Si


I start stripping engine bay to have acces to the timing component and took off the %?$& pulley and bolt and see what cause this issue.

Here is the first link for the reason of the timing slipped Timing Belt Failure Fix Slideshow by QCstealth92 | Photobucket



i will try to keep this project updated really often. But working a 3S with two young kids and wife is hard to have enough time ;)


Thanks for reading this story with my bad english lol

-Simon
 

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Sorry to be a bearer of bad news, but your budget will be further strained by head repairs from bent valves. You wont know how many until you get it all apart. These engines are "interference" engines which means if the timing goes bad, valves will hit the pistons and get bent.

Yes, and all this headache from the failure of just one silly bolt. Replace your broken one AND the one that attaches to pulley with QUALITY replacements, not ones from the cheap hardware store. OEM would probably be best.

Good luck with your project. Your story was fun since your boy enjoyed the ride. I hope he gets to ride in it more.

-SP
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for reading speedy25...

For the interference motor i know all that ...is why i can't wait to see the damage under the head...probably this week i'll be able to post pics of the heads removed.

i need to get estimate of head repair to decide if i fix (have all valve to fix but no valve guide) or buy a set i found locally on top notch condition. For the BOLT be sure i will put all new OEM. It's why in the album i create on photobucket you see picture snapped from CAPS to get all parts number for the bolt. :) it's the first thing i was doing since i saw that %?$/ bolt broken

The hard part i see coming is extract the broken block from the block. Now i dont plan to remove motor from engine bay but the access i have to this broken bolt are tight so probably need to remove the engine just for that :/

Yeah my kid can wait and his little brother too.....And me so excited to fix it finally.

i open my thread to get feedback tips and advice from member that know this engine better than me.
 

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Wheee! 2 wheels is fun!
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Extraction- My favorite tool for the job is a 1/8" LEFT hand drill bit. Usually the bit catches and spins the old piece out.

2nd best- Use a small chisel where the bolt broke and tap it to rotate the broken part out. That might work the best in the space available.

-SP
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I was already thinking about something iike the chisel trick, but now i can continue my work anyway to remove the head. I put some Loose nut yesterday on thé header and exhaust Bolt to be ready tonight to work .
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I got some free time to work on the car tonight, i ran on some issue with me EK2 short header the only way to remove some bolt on the front is with a key...took some time

For the rear one i remember my mechanic told me that he removed the rear motor support or the bracket to install the header ( 4 years ago) Can i remove the head with header bolted on?? If no where i can support the motor because the driver one are already removed i dont want to remove the rear support bracket without a good stand under the motor.

And for flush the coolant did i need to remove the ....forgot the name.... bypass on the head? :/ one bolt on each head,,

Tomorrow i will snap some pics of the progress, and some pics of parts that i would like some help to identify. I found rust in some place
 

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LessThanSane
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I got some free time to work on the car tonight, i ran on some issue with me EK2 short header the only way to remove some bolt on the front is with a key...took some time

For the rear one i remember my mechanic told me that he removed the rear motor support or the bracket to install the header ( 4 years ago) Can i remove the head with header bolted on?? If no where i can support the motor because the driver one are already removed i dont want to remove the rear support bracket without a good stand under the motor.

And for flush the coolant did i need to remove the ....forgot the name.... bypass on the head? :/ one bolt on each head,,

Tomorrow i will snap some pics of the progress, and some pics of parts that i would like some help to identify. I found rust in some place
Assuming you still have both side mounts attached, the engine should sit pretty steady, but you can support it under the tranny to stabilize it so it won't wiggle back and forth. (Double check that - it's been a while)
The only bypass thing I can think of on the cooling system is the heater core lines, you can remove them to flush the core by itself if you want, or if it's really funky. For just a preventative flush, I just pull the radiator hoses off and use a garden hose to flush the radiator, then the engine. If it's really dirty, I flush the heater core separate, and also I pull the thermostat and put the hose in right there. My flushing method is VERY messy... I also use my compressor to blow out any excess water when I'm done to minimize the amount of un-distilled water in my system.
Not sure, But I "THINK" you can pull the head with the header attached. I've never been lucky enough to pull just the head, I've always pulled the entire engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
The driver side support are removed it's why im nervous to remove the rear support bracket

For the coolant removal procedure the manual tell drain plug on each bank....I Just wonder if I drain radiator re-place the drain plug of the radiator and after flush each bank seperatly. ..
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Some pics ...

Overview :
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table of stuff: more to come on it im sure ;)
[/URL][/IMG]

rusted part that i think to change and want to know your opinion and the name of this.. (same 2 part just different angle)

[/URL][/IMG]
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[/URL][/IMG]
 

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Discussion Starter #10
the broken bolt in is hole :evil1:

[/URL][/IMG]

piece of melted plastic and shit where thecrank pulley goes
[/URL][/IMG]
 

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LessThanSane
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Those "rusty" parts are the oil pressure sensors. Pretty sure one is for the ecu and the other is for the gauge.
I forgot that you had one side mount off. You will definitely need good support to pull the rear. Usually I would say you'd want a strut hanger (I forget what its called - A bar that sits across the struts and has chains to hang the engine from. Runs around $100), But since you are intending to pull the heads, I would seriously consider getting a lift and pulling the entire engine. It's really hard to keep the engine stable from underneath while you're working on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
im really start thinking about pulling the engine out...need to find a stand and "cherry picker" or i need to rebolt the side one to remove the rear and header. For not busting my budget ill give a try to this way.

For the 2 sensor i will start looking for some in better shape...no problem with it but not like the condition
 

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Your off to a good start Simon.. The big rusty part is the sensor for the oil pressure in the center gauge cluster. the smaller one is for the oil warning light. Good luck with your build.
 

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Replace both of the oil senders. They get flakey over time. People freak out when the oil light comes on at idle and think their engine is about to blow up!

I took off the rear head with the exhaust manifold attached, BUT I have an NA, so that may not be true for a turbo car.

-SP
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for the info about those sensor i will go search a good one, i dont want ot freak out after the build and see the low oil light come on..;)

Speedy im NA too i will continue remove thing and see if i can get out with it .

I'll flush coolant (place old clothe on the floor everywhere under the engine bay and try flush coolant and remove head.
 

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Save your coolant flush for when you have the engine back together. Using a chemical flush will also remove any oil and any other small debris that might be in the cooling system after you re-assemble.

-SP
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
I found this tonight:
JDM Mitsubishi VR4 3000GT, 6G72 Twin Turbo Engine, For Parts | moteur, pièces de moteur | Ville de Montréal | Kijiji

i wonder if is a good deal or not? i ask for compression number and the year of motor i will wait but if the damage is just the head and the bottom are in good shape is a good idea to fix it and snap some 13T my friend have laying around. :) i already have the SMIC oil cooler, radiator... need a ecu and pump.

I know is a totally different project but is very interesting way to think im already planned to rebuild TT head, is what i have in my NA . If i need to wait one more year to have a TT...hummm ?:)

Why the TT world are so attractive ...lol maybe because my friend have a TT95 with 19T ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
project put a side a little...Car part to strip before return to my project.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
that would be awesome to have some help ;) how much that cost lol.... It's a nice occasion to visit the beautiful town of Québec. With the value of your $$ here that really worht the trip and some free beer and BBQ is nice too ;)
 
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