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Discussion Starter #1


Purchased a set of coated Clevite bearing. I installed the crank and used the method Ray P. suggests to seat the thrust bearings (tighten girdle then loosen bolts 1/4 turn, tap both ends of crank to seat thrust bearings, retighten). Before installing any pistons/rods I had a last minute change of heart and upgraded to Ninja lightweight rods from stock so I removed crank to get it balanced. Upon removal noticed wear shown in pic on one of the thrust bearings - other 3 are fine. Crank had only been rotated by hand and plenty of assembly lube was used. Rotated smoothly.

I've ordered a new set of thrust bearings, and don't want a repeat. What should I do differently next time?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi Jim. Orientation: Coated side (black, grooved and face up in pic) facing outward - toward crank. Two of the 4 bearings had an ear/tab and two didn't (the one shown doesn't). Two of the recesses for the thrust bearings (one on the engine side and one on the girdle side) are cut to receive the ear/tab. The bearings with the ear/tab went in the recesses shaped to receive them.

I was able to get the engine side thrust bearings to stay in place while I placed the crank, but the girdle side thrust bearings kept falling out before I could place the girdle on the engine/crank. I used a little oil between the girdle/bearing to keep them in place during assembly. The oil on the girdle side of the bearings was in addition to the assembly lube I used on the crank side of the bearing.

If there is a better way to retain those girdle side thrust bearings during assembly I'm open to suggestions - don't like putting anything between girdle & bearings as it could impact clearances and increase odds of bearing spin. Guess I could have stuck the trust bearings to the crank with the assembly lube and then placed the girdle - would that be better?
 

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I take it that that washer was in the girdle. Sometimes they get cockeyed during assembly. I hold them from the sides with my thumb and forefinger as I lower the girdle onto the block. I also have the crank rotated so the counterweights aren't in the way.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes, it was in the girdle. I'll try the technique you describe when I put the new ones in. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Good news - new bearings arrived from 3SX in record time (ordered Friday night, here Monday).

Bad news - they don't fit. Old ones slid right out of groove and had correct clearances, but new ones wouldn't slide in. Measured: .076 thick original set of coated bearings; .080 new set of coated bearings.

Anybody know that they are supposed to measure?
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
OK - found the spec on the Clevite .pdf catalog (not on the online catalog) - max wall 0.0778. New ones are out of spec.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
OK - pulled out the dial indicator - amazed by the variation even within sets. I measured at three points across each bearing and averaged those for the results below:

First coated set (.003" variation between bearings - thick ones damaged on edge per first photo in this thread):
.0785
.0760
.0785
.0755

Second Coated Set (.001" variation, but all over max of .0778):
.0790
.0795
.0800
.0800



 

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Lovbyts
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Damn, thats not good. Looks like you will have to send them back and get new ones. Hope your luck is better the 2nd time around. Sounds like my luck. Typically I have to do everything 2-3 times. :(
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Damn, thats not good. Looks like you will have to send them back and get new ones. Hope your luck is better the 2nd time around. Sounds like my luck. Typically I have to do everything 2-3 times. :(
I was able to pair the thinnest pair from the old set (which weren't damaged) on one side of the main and the thinnest pair from the new set on the other to set a set of 4 with a total thickness within spec so I'm in business.

I am, however, going to call 3SX and let them know they have a quality issue on these.
 

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I'm having the same issue. I thought it was just me doing something wrong. The washers are measuring at .079 in some spots of the washer. just ordered a new set because I gouged them trying to install the crank in the block.

Did you ever contact 3sx about this?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Did you ever contact 3sx about this?
Yes - they refunded my money and are going back to Clevite about the quality issue. Don't know the current status.
 

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Cant return open bearings. Just went tru this. Clevite moved the production facility to mexico and tons of different cars have been having this issue. Mine were .079 .081 .083 .085.


Went with king bearings and all 4 mic'd perfect and all the same. Done
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Cant return open bearings. Just went tru this. Clevite moved the production facility to mexico and tons of different cars have been having this issue. Mine were .079 .081 .083 .085.


Went with king bearings and all 4 mic'd perfect and all the same. Done
They took my open ones back because they weren't in spec - only way to tell that is by opening. I think Kings are made in Israel.
 

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This should be a sticky, as I just went through this with Clevite as well.
Mine actually measured .078. Just tight enough to still turn, but with noticeable resistance.
I swapped in the ITM ones from ROck Auto, and they worked perfect.
 

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good thing i went back in to see why theres so much resistance in turning my motor.

three of 4 of my clevite STD thrust bearings have wear on only the edges. i knew there was something up when it was slightly difficult getting the crank to seat on the mains

good post this should be sticky
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks Ray - have you seen any quality issues with their mains or rod bearings since they moved to Mexico?
 
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