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Chief Exec.
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone hope everyone is well. I Reached out to TMZ performance and dabest on the forum but no response. Does anyone know anyone else that rebuilds our throttle body. Looking for high boost seals etc. Thank you for your help.
 

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I’m in the same boat. I rebuilt mine once on a old car on my own and had a sticky gas pedal afterwards. Mine leak a little in this car but not terrible yet.
 
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One fix at a time
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I have debated about offering something mainly just because I don’t have much time. They honestly don’t take very long and are pretty easy. I don’t have an ultrasonic cleaner yet but you could also just replace the shaft seals with the Mil-spec ones, BISS o-ring, and probably be about done.

I did build a pressure tester though because I was tired of so many leaking TBs.



Let me know if you have any questions on how to rebuild them. You just need simple tools. A 10mm socket works great for pressing in the shaft seals.
 

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I have debated about offering something mainly just because I don’t have much time. They honestly don’t take very long and are pretty easy. I don’t have an ultrasonic cleaner yet but you could also just replace the shaft seals with the Mil-spec ones, BISS o-ring, and probably be about done.

Let me know if you have any questions on how to rebuild them. You just need simple tools. A 10mm socket works great for pressing in the shaft seals.
I think that pressure tester alone warrants your service as necessary if you ever offer it. I eventually ended up rebuilding mines myself; but to this day am still not sure if it's 100% leak proof. If you ever do, please let me know or even just to throw it on your pressure tester.
 

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One fix at a time
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I think that pressure tester alone warrants your service as necessary if you ever offer it. I eventually ended up rebuilding mines myself; but to this day am still not sure if it's 100% leak proof. If you ever do, please let me know or even just to throw it on your pressure tester.
Usually once you pressure test on the car you'll know if they're leaking or not. I guess I just did this recently so I would know how long it would hold the pressure for and I pushed over 40 psi to those Mil-Spec seals and they held. I figured that's good enough. It was just scrap stuff I had laying around but I probably still have more left I could build another.

I have been wanting to buy a 40L or so ultrasonic cleaner something that is bigger to hold and clean parts. I'll think about it and see what happens. I think there's about $60 between all the gaskets, o-rings, shaft seals, and BISS screw for everything you need. I'm focused on some other intake manifold designs and turbo kits at the moment for fab stuff.
 

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Usually once you pressure test on the car you'll know if they're leaking or not. I guess I just did this recently so I would know how long it would hold the pressure for and I pushed over 40 psi to those Mil-Spec seals and they held. I figured that's good enough. It was just scrap stuff I had laying around but I probably still have more left I could build another.

I have been wanting to buy a 40L or so ultrasonic cleaner something that is bigger to hold and clean parts. I'll think about it and see what happens. I think there's about $60 between all the gaskets, o-rings, shaft seals, and BISS screw for everything you need. I'm focused on some other intake manifold designs and turbo kits at the moment for fab stuff.
Sign me up if you ever do. If you ever do build another with the scrap you have lying around; I'll take that too. Let me know; thanks.

To OP, awhile back while in your exact shoes, I did find a DSM member Steve Monroe via throttlebodys dot com that did still offer this service.
 

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Chief Exec.
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Sign me up if you ever do. If you ever do build another with the scrap you have lying around; I'll take that too. Let me know; thanks.

To OP, awhile back while in your exact shoes, I did find a DSM member Steve Monroe via throttlebodys dot com that did still offer this service.
I'll send him a dm. Mine doesnt hold 15 psi before I start seeing and hearing leakage :-( Those seals are hard to find.
 

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One fix at a time
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I'll just add a little info here in case someone is feeling brave enough to rebuild their throttle body. They are very simple mechanical devices. The guide I used years ago was this one: TB Shaft Seals VFAQ. You can find some youtube videos anywhere from 20 minutes to an hour long but honestly that written guide was more concise and simple.

Here is a short video for the shaft seal replacement and likely all most of you need to do:
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This one goes into almost everything for a full build but see the above written guide for that.

You want to use the Mil-spec throttle shaft seals. They're $20-25 a pair but much higher quality than stock and hold way more boost. I've personally tested them up to 40-45 psi and had no leaks. STM Throttle Body Shaft Seals - DSM/Evo/3S

As far as other parts, if you want to go ahead and change out the FIAV o-ring gasket, TB to intake manifold gasket, IAC o-ring, BISS screw, BISS o-ring, and get a BISS cap you can get all of those parts. I'm just using STM for ease of linking but they have the Mitsubishi part numbers if you want to shop around.

FIAV gasket: Mitsubishi FIAV (Fast Idle Air Valve) O-Ring Seal - 91-99 DSM / 3000GT / Stealth
BISS Screw(optional if you still have yours and it isn't mangled up): Mitsubishi OEM Biss Screw for DSM/Evo/3S (MD614948) *Backorder*.
BISS o-ring: Mitsubishi OEM Biss O-Ring for DSM/Evo/3S (MD608806).
BISS cap(these are rarely ever on TBs anymore): Mitsubishi OEM Biss Cap for DSM/3S (MD614150)
TB gasket: Mitsubishi Throttle Body Gasket - Evo 4-9, 3S.
IAC gasket: Mitsubishi OEM Idle Speed Control ORing for 1G/2G/3S (MD614417).

If you already have a tan colored IAC or have any potential issues with that stepper motor, you can upgrade to the black newer one that superceded the older ones. I highly recommend it because the tan ones notoriously take out the IAC chips on the motherboard and then you're looking at hundreds of dollars in ecu rebuild or $650 for a Jester ecu. Standard Motor Products makes our OEM revised IACs part number AC99. https://www.amazon.com/Standard-Motor-Products-AC99-Control/dp/B000C7UMYK. Also, all of the test procedures for your IAC and TPS are in the service manuals.

That's pretty much it. It's super simple to take everything apart. The only special tool I would recommend is an impact screwdriver to get the throttle plate screws out since they are peened on the backside and use it on the FIAV screws too because they are usually stuck on there kind of good. Don't forget to loctite the new throttle plate screws and peen the backside for extra measure. Hopefully that helps you guys get your throttle bodies taken care of.
 

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Chief Exec.
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908 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'll just add a little info here in case someone is feeling brave enough to rebuild their throttle body. They are very simple mechanical devices. The guide I used years ago was this one: TB Shaft Seals VFAQ. You can find some youtube videos anywhere from 20 minutes to an hour long but honestly that written guide was more concise and simple.

Here is a short video for the shaft seal replacement and likely all most of you need to do:
.
This one goes into almost everything for a full build but see the above written guide for that.

You want to use the Mil-spec throttle shaft seals. They're $20-25 a pair but much higher quality than stock and hold way more boost. I've personally tested them up to 40-45 psi and had no leaks. STM Throttle Body Shaft Seals - DSM/Evo/3S

As far as other parts, if you want to go ahead and change out the FIAV o-ring gasket, TB to intake manifold gasket, IAC o-ring, BISS screw, BISS o-ring, and get a BISS cap you can get all of those parts. I'm just using STM for ease of linking but they have the Mitsubishi part numbers if you want to shop around.

FIAV gasket: Mitsubishi FIAV (Fast Idle Air Valve) O-Ring Seal - 91-99 DSM / 3000GT / Stealth
BISS Screw(optional if you still have yours and it isn't mangled up): Mitsubishi OEM Biss Screw for DSM/Evo/3S (MD614948) Backorder.
BISS o-ring: Mitsubishi OEM Biss O-Ring for DSM/Evo/3S (MD608806).
BISS cap(these are rarely ever on TBs anymore): Mitsubishi OEM Biss Cap for DSM/3S (MD614150)
TB gasket: Mitsubishi Throttle Body Gasket - Evo 4-9, 3S.
IAC gasket: Mitsubishi OEM Idle Speed Control ORing for 1G/2G/3S (MD614417).

If you already have a tan colored IAC or have any potential issues with that stepper motor, you can upgrade to the black newer one that superceded the older ones. I highly recommend it because the tan ones notoriously take out the IAC chips on the motherboard and then you're looking at hundreds of dollars in ecu rebuild or $650 for a Jester ecu. Standard Motor Products makes our OEM revised IACs part number AC99. https://www.amazon.com/Standard-Motor-Products-AC99-Control/dp/B000C7UMYK. Also, all of the test procedures for your IAC and TPS are in the service manuals.

That's pretty much it. It's super simple to take everything apart. The only special tool I would recommend is an impact screwdriver to get the throttle plate screws out since they are peened on the backside and use it on the FIAV screws too because they are usually stuck on there kind of good. Don't forget to loctite the new throttle plate screws and peen the backside for extra measure. Hopefully that helps you guys get your throttle bodies taken care of.
Turbo you are the man sir!!!! I appreciate the time you put in to answer and help direct me. Thank you tons.
 

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Lovbyts
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3,881 Posts
Hello everyone hope everyone is well. I Reached out to TMZ performance and dabest on the forum but no response. Does anyone know anyone else that rebuilds our throttle body. Looking for high boost seals etc. Thank you for your help.
Use TMZ webpage for email. I didnt get a response via the forum either but I did using their webpage email address.
 

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Lovbyts
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3,881 Posts
If you already have a tan colored IAC or have any potential issues with that stepper motor, you can upgrade to the black newer one that superceded the older ones. I highly recommend it because the tan ones notoriously take out the IAC chips on the motherboard and then you're looking at hundreds of dollars in ecu rebuild or $650 for a Jester ecu. Standard Motor Products makes our OEM revised IACs part number AC99. https://www.amazon.com/Standard-Motor-Products-AC99-Control/dp/B000C7UMYK. Also, all of the test procedures for your IAC and TPS are in the service manuals.
Do you have any experience with the IAC from Amazon? Getting electronic parts for our cars from ebay or Amazon scares me. Ive had 3 to many TPS and a few other parts that didnt work.

The reviews for that one are not promising either.
 

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One fix at a time
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8,127 Posts
Do you have any experience with the IAC from Amazon? Getting electronic parts for our cars from ebay or Amazon scares me. Ive had 3 to many TPS and a few other parts that didnt work.

The reviews for that one are not promising either.
Yes I do and have had no issues. The key is making sure which brand it is on eBay or Amazon. I don't just order any old part off those websites. Standard Motor Products IS the OEM maker of our IAC so there's literally no issues with it common with buying a no name brand part. It would be the same thing as buying a Gates timing belt, Aisin water pump, Felpro gaskets, and so forth off these sites or Rockauto because they're all the OEM suppliers. I have no idea who makes our TPS sensors but the AC99 Standard Motor Parts is the OEM maker of our IAC. You can search back in the forum and see many threads confirming this. If it helps you sleep better at night, you can go ahead and purchase one from Cherry Hill.
 
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