Mitsubishi 3000GT & Dodge Stealth Forum banner

101 - 120 of 145 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,654 Posts
Discussion Starter #101
:Update:

So I’ve been working with BlackSealth and we’ve been going back and forth on an update for this canbus he’s created to translate Hybrid ECUs to OBD2 readings so we can take this platform to the 21st century regrading using modern loggers. It turned out the car was not knocking at all and I was getting faulty readings. At high rpms, the ECU was not spitting the information out fast enough and the logger was giving me faulty information for all my readings (rpms, timing, and knock counts)

Video Attached: I did a pull in 3rd gear and logged my readings via iphone. You’ll see when the turbos start to really spool, the logger spews its guts and manipulates all of my readings. Once Rpms read zero, you’ll see a crazy knock count of 208 and timing pulled to negative 37. Complete bogus numbers.


BlackStealth sent me an update and we will see if that fixes the logger so I can log real numbers while I’m doing pulls.


On to other news!
The Stealth made her second appearance this year at Seekonk Speedway last Saturday for the final spectator event. The cash prize was $1500 and all the top local guys came out of the wood work to claim the big purse.
Video of footage of all the races:



After my first race and got the jitters out, I was in the zone! I was timing my launches down and really concentrating on my lines. It was a blast! Turns out an old, heavy-ass 3/S can pull some weight!

The final race was against a S63 AMG V8 bi-turbo 4-Matic. The car is chipped and has an exhaust. Owner claims it’s putting down 600+ awhp. I rev’ed the car @ 7k rpms and dropped the clutch to try to stick with him on his launch. He tried passing me on each turn but kept on speeding into the turns too quickly to get in front of me. I wasn’t giving him an inch on the inside and beat him pretty good!

When I first started racing here, no one had any respect for this “silly stealth”, now they understand the power potential of a DR750 3/S.


Stealth_7 by Joe DeFarias, on Flickr


Stealth_4 by Joe DeFarias, on Flickr


Stealth_1 by Joe DeFarias, on Flickr


Champ_Check2 by Joe DeFarias, on Flickr


Champ_Check by Joe DeFarias, on Flickr



Enjoy your turkey day guys! More updates on Instagram @ JoeyD's_Garage
 

·
en**un**lightened
Joined
·
465 Posts
Well done, Joe! :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,820 Posts
Wow Good job, Maybe I should try one of those events haha.

How much camber do you run in the front? You can tell in one of the pictures when loaded up it's going way positive - You might be able to benefit from cranking in some more negative static camber... It can really make a difference especially on banked corners.

-3 to -4 degrees is a real sweet spot for these cars on the front.

The Camber curve on these cars is garbage unless you are at stock ride height, being real low makes it flatline, and then go way positive on compression which often is followed by crazy amounts of understeer, so the solution is alot of negative static camber...

Like the Puma GTO.
 

·
1G Foglights b!tches
Joined
·
8,277 Posts
The 'I'm Baaaaack!!!" Build

AWD is perfect for that racing! Wish we had it around here. Congrats!
 

·
Senior **i.e. OLD** Member
Joined
·
13,230 Posts
Have you done anything hard lately? ;)

Awesome driving, love the car and mods!

Way to represent our platform (waning?)

Bob. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,654 Posts
Discussion Starter #112
Thanks Guys! The car has come a long way and I'm happy with how she's driving and handling.

Warzone: You are absolutely correct regarding the front suspension. Under hard turning you can certainly see some serious positive camber in the front. I'll be taking it over to FastTrack again and try to add some serious negative camber in the front to allow better grip in the turns. The car still under steers really bad and tough to accelerate in the turns without the car pushing up the turns.

We put the car back on the dyno and turned the boost up a little bit before the race to 26 psi.

Car put down 525 awhp / 506 awtq on a Mustang Dyno

IMG_8138 by Joe DeFarias, on Flickr
 

·
One fix at a time
Joined
·
7,763 Posts
If you want to get rid of the understeer you will love the SCE center diff. I know it's a very expensive upgrade but it my favorite mod for the turns. It's a huge difference in handling. You can even feather the throttle at lower speeds in a turn and feel it working. Back off the throttle and it will push like stock but get on it and you can push the back end out. I installed it at the same time with Quaife and wish I would have bought them years ago.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,654 Posts
Discussion Starter #116
Damn, it has been awhile and I need to give you guys some updates. I find myself posting on Instagram more @joeyds_garage and more since this forum seems to be dying down a lot. I do like documenting the journey and it's fun to go back to older threads and re-read some of the progress. Since that last big win at Seekonk the Stealth was washed down, fluids drained and was stored in the garage for the winter. Not much work was done to it. I took the Stealth off the blocks in mid-April when the weather started to get warmer and took some shoots of the finished product.

Post_1 by Joe DeFarias, on Flickr

Post_2 by Joe DeFarias, on Flickr


She was running great and I planned to hit up the drag strip with a couple of my friends at New England Dragway in New Hampshire with high hope of getting into the low 11's. Before we left my house, the car wasn’t sounding very good and almost sounded like it was down a cylinder. The only thing I changed was a re-fill at the local gas station with some fresh E-85. After driving for about 10 mins, the car sounded fine again and was pulling strong on the highway. I found myself in 4th gear at a pretty low rpm and decided to get on it a little bit. The car hesitated almost as if it hit fuel cut and then BANG! I never heard that loud of a sound coming from an engine before (never blew an engine in my lifetime). The car literally stalled while I was on the highway and found myself coasting trying to get into the breakdown line. There was a ton of oil bypass blowing through the exhaust and I knew this wasn’t good. The engine literally seized on me and had to tow the car back to my place. I was bummed that the car didn’t even make it to the track and was upset that I blew (pardon the pun) a night at the track with some old friends. Luckily, they stopped when this happened and stayed with me until the tow truck arrived. They all decided to help get the car back home which was a huge help trying to push the car back in the driveway. Dinner was on me...

I pulled the engine out Easter weekend to find a bloody mess in the oil pan.

Post_3 by Joe DeFarias, on Flickr

Post_4 by Joe DeFarias, on Flickr

I had obliterated the piston in cylinder #3 to about 200 pieces. I discovered that I had completely sheared the forged rod in half. It wasn’t a good day and drank a few more Coronas while pulling the heads off. Here’s some pictures of the carnage…

Post_5 by Joe DeFarias, on Flickr

Post_6 by Joe DeFarias, on Flickr

Post_7 by Joe DeFarias, on Flickr

Post_8 by Joe DeFarias, on Flickr

Post_9 by Joe DeFarias, on Flickr

Post_10 by Joe DeFarias, on Flickr

After speaking with a few people, I may have been running the wrong spark plug the entire time. I was reading one of Matt’s threads over at DR stating he had great luck with the NGK stage 7 plugs with the DR750s. But according to Ray and many others, they were finding that this plug was not cool enough and found pre-ignition issues running E85. I believe this was my problem hence the car was under extreme load when the engine blew (car in a high gear at low RPMs). It was a big lesson learned and I’m upset with myself because I had a set or NGK 8’s and 9’s to test on the car. The 7’s seem to be running fine on the dyno and the car was pulling very strong. I’ll post some more updates later this week. I have a ton more updates to get all of you up to date.
 

·
Elevate
Joined
·
1,121 Posts
Did you gap your plugs down for tuning? The beginning of the thread you mentioned they were at .040 ? Definitely get the colder plugs as you already know.

With e85 and high boost, definitely need to keep those gaps low. I know Ray and several others run .018" gap and if on E85 run a kenne bell boost-a-pump. I run .024" with 21-22psi and methanol. I know with e85, knock is not forgiving as seen above^ also there seems to be a large variance of e85 as it doesn't actually have to be 85%. I believe the actual regulation (may vary by state) is different, and can dip anywhere from 50-85%. That being said, it is very easy to measure with a graduated cylinder or you can even buy these: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/qft-36-e85qft

Also you are close enough to NY, after you slap a used motor together with some stuff, you should schedule a tune with ray instead, IMO.
 

·
One fix at a time
Joined
·
7,763 Posts
Multiple DR-750 builds have failed on piggybacks due to the lower rpm, high gear, high boost, but low ecu load the ecu sees due to the scaling of the airflow signal being so much lower. You were running too advanced of ignition timing going WOT in 4th gear lower rpms so the detonation and high cylinder pressures made it go boom.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
409 Posts
stronger internals should be a must have when pushing dr 750s
and where are the center caps for those j5 pros?
 
101 - 120 of 145 Posts
Top