[donniekak]

Ahh. Well, might be a gain? bit of unchartered territory there.

Also, they didn't sell the debonair here. So a easily sourced montero block, and a set of 3s heads we all have, is much easier to do.

 

[donniekak]

Question for you guys - the 6G72 oil filter stay (MD140084) doesn't appear to line up to the 6G74 block. Am I correct in assuming that nobody runs that stay on their 6G74 swaps? Thanks

Edit: John M. already answered this on his page (6G74 3.5L Engine Main Swap details!...JOHN MONNIN'S PERSONAL 3000GT/STEALTH FAQ), it doesn't line right up, but the question remains. Anyone just not run it?

I’ve never run that bracket and had exactly zero oil filter housings fall off the engine.

 

[donniekak]

It's the closest thing to being usable I've seen in the US market, but still far from a direct swap. As in most 2000-up Mitsu products, it faces the passenger side, making the mounts and accessories different. (2002-2005 Kia Sedona minivan)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-3-5...ke:Kia&hash=item2624c7c643:g:fiMAAOSwVcFdWxeV

What about the 95-96 montero?

 

[donniekak]

94-96 Montero SR.

Right lower end and heads, nothing else is even close.

I know this is foreign in 3s land, but how hard is it to make a few brackets?

 

[donniekak]

The Kia 3.5L DOHC and 3.8L 6G75 with 3/S DOHC heads seem to have the same challenges for mounting - overall not that bad

Odd ball oil pump with OFH what becomes Rear of engine to us, causing it to be in way of intermediate shaft - no 3/S oil pump will work from what I could tell.

I just made a block off plate out of 3/8" thick aluminum, and used the two oil ports on the back with the threaded plugs in them to feed my Remote Oil Filter housing via -10AN fittings and Lines. I believe they are BSP/BTSP/BSPTSPSTPS thread but I don't remember exactly what size.

Oil Pan required mild modification to work with 3/S Trans.
*Drain and Dip stick on rear of engine. Dipstick provision is in oilpan itself not block
*No Starter notch, I took some aluminum tubing, cut a section out, sliced the tubing and welded it into the pan - I also had to grind some material away from the girdle - a AWD TT Trans might not need this since the starter sits out further from the engine slightly with the bigger diameter flywheel
*Hack off the brace type thing on the transmission side and use shorter bolts for the pan.
*Much like the JDM 6G74, you'll need to notch the oil pan for the T-Case which means grinding the crap out of the Girdle there too.

a 4 Bolt TT Pan will NOT work, I tried.

I was able to get by using all 72 brackets, and accessories with light to mild modification. Power steering, Alternator, Drivers Motor Mount Bracket boat anchor, etc.

Most of which consisted of Grind away material and or enlarging holes... not the right way but it worked. 3D Scanning the block and heads then having all the parts cut out of aluminum via CNC would be the preferred way to do it given the resources.

the Bosses for the Front and Rear Motor mounts were there, but most were not drilled/threaded the right size or at all.... However making some custom front and rear motor mounts was actually pretty easy coming from someone who is a terrible fabricator... later on in the project I ended up using the IMR Motorplate, which made mounting the engine fairly easy...


The rest is basically the same as the JDM 6G74 Swap guide,

Exactly, most people with these cars are terrified to make a catch can bracket. But for folks with a welder and some basic fab tools, brackets and mounts aren’t a big deal at all.