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corporate slave
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700 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I just got my 3" stainless steel test pipe custom fabricated and installed.....wow...all i gotta say is wow, YES, i did loose power from about 1k to 3k RPM, but the needle shoots from 4k-6k as if I have a turbo or something, its' perfect for runnin around 3k RPM's and waiting for someone to get up next to you, and then WHAM, floor it! you're gone!

plus it has a nice rumble, and RUINER said it sounded good as i passed him ;-)


-brian

ps. he wasn't trying =)
 

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HIGHRISK
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501 Posts
Stupid question:

What's a test pipe? Where does it go? BTW, Ruiner's car is slow, I'm sure you really did beat him, lol.
 

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corporate slave
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700 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
explanation........

go look under your car, find your catalytic convertor, it's about 16" long and is pretty ugly...that is filled with a fine mesh that removes harmful particles from your exhaust

imagine replacing that with a straight 3" piece of tubing...no restrictions, flames, extra gas, carbon monoxide and other carcinogens flying out the back

that's what a test pipe does


you loose a little low end, but gain a lot of high end (on the rpm scale)

you can buy them online, around $30-$80 (ranging from 2.25" to 2.5", stainless steel to chrome)

i got mine for $100 installed, i love it
 

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HIGHRISK
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501 Posts
That's alright...Im' getting an entire exhaust sytem. The guy I found to do it puts a Catback in there, but has the exhaust "bypass" the catback ;D Which means I pass inspection without a catback *techinically* lol. Said it runs about $300 - $500. I can get 3 inch piping all the way back too.
 

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corporate slave
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700 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
roo1524: custom fabricated at a local muffler shop

esc: $300-$500 for the "bypass" sounds like you're getting robbed...it's pretty damn simple, bolt some piping from your downpipe back to some tips...not hard....

i have the borla exhaust system too, and have had it for about 6 months...love it...but this adds some pep to it
 

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HIGHRISK
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501 Posts
I'm not getting just the bypass. I'm getting an entire stainless steel exhaust, from the manifold back to the tips. 3 inch piping with 4 or 5 inch tip, I dunno yet. Sounds like a deal to me though.
 

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corporate slave
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700 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
definately!
 

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Registered
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96 Posts
i must have got good deal

i found a shop that took out my cat and put in a straight pipe for $30, he said that the precats would cost a little more,
 

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Sport Leisure
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1,110 Posts
i'm gonna get a custom downpipe made pretty soon.. probably 2.5".. and i think i'm gonna put on a VR4 exhaust.. should i throw on a test pipe too? i really dont wanna lose any low end power, seeing as i have absolutely none now, especially with my auto tranny..
 

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corporate slave
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700 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
it's not enough to cry about, and YES, definately a test pipe, and try to go 3" on the downpipe...2.5 is what you have now i believe, eitherway, 3" is better =)
 

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Badassical Baddage
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6,535 Posts
3" might not really be better on an NA...unless your running a bunch of NOS or planning to turbo it soon.

You'll keep your low-end power with a 2.5" system...

too little backpressure is NOT good, tuned backpressue is ideal, thats where R&D comes from on exhausts...anyone can bend a pipe and weld it on, but to make it flow freely and keep the right amount of backpressure takes some work.
 

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856 Posts
I don't know why anyone would care about losing hp under 3k rpm. When are you ever below that racing? Now, I've got some really shitty tires, and i get wheel spin launching at 2k, but plenty of guys launch their cars at 3k+

.jon
 

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Sport Leisure
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1,110 Posts
jon3k said:
I don't know why anyone would care about losing hp under 3k rpm. When are you ever below that racing? Now, I've got some really shitty tires, and i get wheel spin launching at 2k, but plenty of guys launch their cars at 3k+

.jon

i care.. thats because the only way i can launch is holding down the brake while i rev the gas up to 2K (which is where the rev limiter stops it) and then let go of the brake and floor the gas.. even then all i get is a little squeal of the tires and on, slowly, she goes.. yup, auto trannies suck for racing..
 

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Yeah I agree it is hard to get from 2000RPMs to 3000RPMs with very little back pressure. But if you get a Torque Converter you dont need to worry about Low - End from a stop. ;)
 

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Sport Leisure
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1,110 Posts
4u2nv said:
Yeah I agree it is hard to get from 2000RPMs to 3000RPMs with very little back pressure. But if you get a Torque Converter you dont need to worry about Low - End from a stop. ;)

ive heard of those before but never really looked into them.. how much are torque converters and how easy are they to install (can i do it myself) ? also what retailers sell them, and what brand/type should i look for?
 

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BusyGT said:



ive heard of those before but never really looked into them.. how much are torque converters and how easy are they to install (can i do it myself) ? also what retailers sell them, and what brand/type should i look for?
Well Levelten.com has them and they will install, so does GTPRO and they will install but from what I have heard GTPRO gets there Torque Converters from Protorque.com. So you may want to look into them. They are about $300 - $400 and are a sound mod for an N/A if your tranny is pretty new. I'm guessing around up to 50,000 miles it should seem like a good mod, until your tranny goes than it is your choice whether to keep the ATX or go for the 5-Speed. Any car with more than about their 60k tuneup can be considered a waste of money if you are going to swap to a 5-speed but the good part is that you could always sell it on the board for a fairly good price. HEHE.

You cant really do it yourself unless you are really experienced with the car. I think you need to seperate the tranny from the engine to get to the damn stock Torque Converter, so it is a hugh 3 - 5 hour job depending on if you know what you are doing and how good you are with cars. Installation is a bitch so a mechanic will charge you alot but it is worth it. HEHE

Also if you get a Torque Converter you will have to get a Shift Kit and Clutch End along with it. Not to mention a tranny cooler. Talk to Mikes95RT . He has a the kit and runs flat 15's on his G - Tech with his ATX!!!!!! HEHE:D :D

Hope I could help and contact Mikes95RT. ;)
 

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566 Posts
i've been debating getting a test pipe for my N/A, i think after reading all of this i will get one. i dont like the fact of losing low-end, but i def. need some high end, the high end on my car feels kind of weak. anyway, some with N/A's think that they didnt lose any power, that it was all gains. my friend with a integra vtec put a test pipe on there, and he loves it. the test pipe replaces the cat thats just right after the flex pipe, right??
 

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corporate slave
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700 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
correct, it's not going to loose a whole lot of low end...but i do see what the claims are now, when everyone said i'd loose low end, if you pay attention, you will notice it, but otherwise it's hardly noticeable, i like the sudden pull around 4k, feels like i have a 1g turbo =D
 

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W3Si member #010
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1,765 Posts
From what i understand, you shouldnt lose more than a tiny bit of low-end due to the backpressure being kept by the downpipe and manafolds. And that from about 3grand and up the power is really felt in an n/a anyways. We dont get peak tq til 4500 and peak hp at 6k. I would love to lose a tiny bit of low end and gain alot of high end. That will release some traction problems maybe and really allow a killing from a roll. ;) I will be getting mine real soon. I will post before and after feelings of it. Godd luck.
 
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