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Your problem could be several things, but is NOT uncommon with our cars... Stealth or VR4.

My SL never had a problem, but my 95VR4 did... grinding when shifting hard, sometimes normal shifting form 1-2 or 2-3, but rarely anything else. (WORSE WHEN COLD)

The most common thought, the synchros are going bad.
The first fix I'd suggest is the easiest and costs very little.

Get your $20 oil change at the dealership (that's what it costs me with the coupons), and BRING THEM synthetic fluids to use in your tranny.


One of the most popular, if you didn't already know.. is Redline or Mobile 1.

The cost from Red-line (from memory) is about $7 per quart
It'll take about 5 quarts.

Buy 3 quarts of Redline MTL (from red-line site, or many DSM vendors)
Buy 3 quarts of MT90 50/50.

A 50/50 mix is about right for the transmission.
They'll have some left-over.

This made my shifting... much smoother, and it'll extend the life of your tranny, and not having to get new synchros.

It got smoother and smoother for a few hundred miles, then leveled off to very acceptable (ie... little grinding now) I have 82,000 miles on the car.

Hope, this helps.

Scott
 

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Scottkline is probably right.
I had the same problem shifting UP to 2nd from 1st above 3500 revs would grind. Also shifting down into 2nd at anything above 20MPH would grind and even below 20mph I would still have to be very gentle to stop it grinding.
I tried the synthetic gearbox oil but it made no difference in my case as the 2nd gear syncro was totally shot.
I purchased new synchros from CRS at a cost of US$320 for the entire set including 5th and reverse - I reckon if you are going to the trouble of pulling the thing out you may as well replace the lot while your at it. BTW my gears were in perfect condition I had not damaged them when the syncro went by driving very carefully and getting it fixed asap.
Oh, I also had all the bearings and seals replaced at the same time in both the gearbox and transfer case, also had the gearbox output spline rebuilt (looks great) at a cost of only Aus$150 (around US$90 for the spline rebuild).
Stevet
 

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Stevet:

Is the CRS synchros ability to get our synchros fairly new?
I had heard (in the past) we could not get synchros.
I know it's now possible, but wanted a little more info.

The cost looks pretty good, but what about the labor?
Or did you do it yourself. I'm not big on pulling the tranny and playing around, without a lift, and better knowledge.

I assume you're from Australia. Our labor is about 65 bucks an hour at Mitsu, and didn't know the TIME that they SAY is involved.

Or did you get it done at another shop?
Just curious, if I ever decide to replace mine... still a little grinding, when I'm doing some fairly hard racing.

Scott
 

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I've got rough shifts from 1 to 2 and from 3 to 4. I think I'm gonna use the redline oil, and I should probably replace my synchros too....

Is CRS an Australian company? (Never heard of them -- how do I contact them about getting some synchros?) How much labor is involved? (Isn't it pulling the whole tranny?)

Thanks.
 

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Hi Guys

The details for CRS are as follows (this is about 400th hand lots of guys on 3SI have helped me out with this in the past - many thanks to them)

Component Remanufacturing Specialists, Inc. (CRS)
400 Corporate Drive
Mahwah, New Jersey 07430
Attention: John Davis - Parts Manager
(201) 512-1700 ext. 331

I did not do the work myself I do not have the skill or the tools needed to press off synchros and bearing and then reinstall and preload the bearings that our gearbox uses.

The breakdown of my costs (its still not finished) should be as follows in Aussie dollars (note I'm also having my clutch replaced and a few other components so the strip down and reassemble is for these as well even though they are not included in the costing anywhere else):

Removal of all components (tailshaft, gearbox, steering rack etc)
$750
Synchros including shipping, and local taxes
$880
Rebuild of the box complete with all new bearings
$850
Rebuild of the gearbox drive spline (was worn and new cost like $500)
$150
Reassembly of all components (estimated)
$750
Total: $3,380 (Approx US$1850)

Hope that helps some.
Stevet
 

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Change tranny fluid

I had same problem before.
I change my fluid with redline, everything was back to normal.
Try that....
 

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I am just about to have my tranny taken out and rebuilt. I was just about ready to buy 5 quarts of Redline MT-90? Why do I need to do a 50/50 mix with the MTL? Will anything bad happen if I dont?
 

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Check out Jeff Lucius site: There's a discussion regarding the mixture (I've heard).

I also found the following from DocRadley:

RedLine makes excellant products.

They are a very reputable company. If you use the correct products in the correct amounts you will meet the stated requirements from Mitsubishi/Gretag for our cars.

For a standard, street driven TT car you will typically use a 50/50 mix of MTL and MT-90 in the transmission and transfer case. The rear differential will use 75W90 gear oil.

Alternatively, you can use a higher proportion (up to 60/40) of MTL to MT-90 in cold climates or with balky transmissions. This mixture will have a lower viscosity and will make cold shifting and poor condition transmissions easier to shift. It will provide somewhat less protection since it will not adhere as well to the internal component surfaces. In hotter climates you can use a 60/40 mix of MT-90 to MTL which will have a higher viscosity and protect better.

I use the 50/50 mix and have for the last two years/20k miles. I've dropped the fluid twice and had it lab tested. It always looks fine.

In the transfer case and the differential you can also use one of the Shockproof products (typically Shockproof Heavy). This offers better protection for heavy vehicles and hard launches. When used in the differential you need to add limited slip friction additive since the rear differential is an LSD unit and the Shockproof products do not contain this (the standard gear oils do).

I currently use the 50/50 MTL/MT-90 blend in the transfer case and the 75W90 gear oil in the differential. I expect I will switch to Shockproof Heavy at my next change.

Other excellant synthetic lubricants include Amsoil and BG Sychroshift II.

All synthetics will provide better thermal stability and lubrication than conventional products. But they don't work miracles. If the transmission doesn't shift well don't expect these products to fix it. At best it will smooth out a bit.

Those who sight problems have no proof, just speculation and conjecture based on questionable cause/effect situations.

Doc,

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Gears

How would I know if the gears are stripped along with the syncros being shot, and would stripped input and output shafts cause slipping under acceleration?
 
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