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Wow...I was wrong, they use to have them. wonder what happened.


Coop
No worries Coop, but I appreciate the help.

The pick-up would have to be completely mangled to need a new part. You just straighten the thing out if it's been pushed out of shape. As long as it's not kinked and there's no holes in the screen there's really no need for a new one. The only thing that I can think of is just make sure you don't overcompensate and pin it against the bottom of the pan so tight that you actually cause a restriction for the oil. I know Ray serviced my used pick-up when he did my motor, and he spoke to me about how he fixed it. I never asked him about my concern about positioning it too close to the bottom of the pan, but he's the surgeon so I was never really worried that he did it wrong, even when he told me he had to fix it.
I kinda figured that since mine isn't dented very badly and I've seen some of the cutaways, good to know though. If the flat area wasn't so large and even, I might not even worry about the pan.
 

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Busted Knuckle Garage
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No worries Coop, but I appreciate the help.



I kinda figured that since mine isn't dented very badly and I've seen some of the cutaways, good to know though. If the flat area wasn't so large and even, I might not even worry about the pan.
Yeah, those pans were definitely were not designed to be dented and still function well with the oil pickup.
 

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I have a question, my 1991 3000gt Sl recently started having the battery drained because the headlights would stay on and the blower motor and engine fan would turn on even when the car was off and the blower for the heater shuts off on its own also. Also if i wiggle the wires by the headlight or the main fuse box it will make the headlights go on and off. Anyone know how to fix this?
 
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I have a question, my 1991 3000gt Sl recently started having the battery drained because the headlights would stay on and the blower motor and engine fan would turn on even when the car was off and the blower for the heater shuts off on its own also. Also if i wiggle the wires by the headlight or the main fuse box it will make the headlights go on and off. Anyone know how to fix this?
post this in the new owners section if you want a response
 

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or you can get it from ninja performance for $49.99 shipped

or gzp
Forrest, I'm glad you chimed in cause guess what? I have spun bearings. That tiny dent I mentioned earlier isn't tiny enough, I guess. I hope ninja only lists items they actually have in stock, unlike the last place I tried to order these from. I just placed an order so we'll see.

I never actually dropped the pan like I was going to, but I sent an oil sample in to Blackstone for analysis and it was bad news. Lots of lead, copper and iron floating around in there. Analysis is attached for anyone that wants to see the carnage.

I can't say for sure whether or not there was ever any leaded fuel run through, but I seriously doubt it since it had been driven enough to flush any of that out (2 or 3 tanks of premium unleaded).

Luckily, this is not my daily driver and I bought it to drive on Sundays. That said, a job like this is going to require more space than I have so I will need to move it to a roomier garage to work on, which is about a 45 minute drive away (35 miles). I haven't decided whether I want to risk driving it there or have it towed.

At this point, there is no sign of rod knock, although I thought there was for a short time after starting it up one day but it went away after a few minutes. Must have been heavy lifter tick since rod knock doesn't just disappear, as far as I know.

So, now the questions for those who may know better than I:
1. Should I drive it or have it towed?
2. Other than replacing the crankshaft, rod bearings, oil pickup, pickup gasket, turbo oil line gaskets, undenting the oil pan, and resealing the pan in installation, is there anything else I should replace/rebuild/clean? I guess I'm asking for best practices of someone who's been here before.
3. Is it possible to have the crank machined and use oversized bearings, or am I better off going with all new, stock stuff.
4. Since the bottom half of the engine is going to be exposed and it has ~120K on the engine, is there anything down there I might as well replace since it's apart? (Other than timing belt stuff - it was just done before I bought the car)

Any help or advise is appreciated. Thanks!
 

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no speed limits here
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From personal experience, Don't drive it! If you push it, you will destroy the crank and limit your options for salvaging.

I'll let others with more experience at rebuilding chime in for your other questions.
 

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Ninja Performance
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Forrest, I'm glad you chimed in cause guess what? I have spun bearings. That tiny dent I mentioned earlier isn't tiny enough, I guess. I hope ninja only lists items they actually have in stock, unlike the last place I tried to order these from. I just placed an order so we'll see.
Yep, In stock :)

-Chris
 

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Thanks black94, that is exactly my fear. There is no rod knock at this point, so I don't know if that is any kind of reliable indicator as to how many more miles I have to go before hitting that point of total catastrophe. I feel like it could make the drive just fine, but it would be nerve racking.

What happened to yours? What was your personal experience?
 

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Ninja Performance
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Premium Member
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Forrest, I'm glad you chimed in cause guess what? I have spun bearings. That tiny dent I mentioned earlier isn't tiny enough, I guess. I hope ninja only lists items they actually have in stock, unlike the last place I tried to order these from. I just placed an order so we'll see.

I never actually dropped the pan like I was going to, but I sent an oil sample in to Blackstone for analysis and it was bad news. Lots of lead, copper and iron floating around in there. Analysis is attached for anyone that wants to see the carnage.

I can't say for sure whether or not there was ever any leaded fuel run through, but I seriously doubt it since it had been driven enough to flush any of that out (2 or 3 tanks of premium unleaded).

Luckily, this is not my daily driver and I bought it to drive on Sundays. That said, a job like this is going to require more space than I have so I will need to move it to a roomier garage to work on, which is about a 45 minute drive away (35 miles). I haven't decided whether I want to risk driving it there or have it towed.

At this point, there is no sign of rod knock, although I thought there was for a short time after starting it up one day but it went away after a few minutes. Must have been heavy lifter tick since rod knock doesn't just disappear, as far as I know.

So, now the questions for those who may know better than I:
1. Should I drive it or have it towed?
2. Other than replacing the crankshaft, rod bearings, oil pickup, pickup gasket, turbo oil line gaskets, undenting the oil pan, and resealing the pan in installation, is there anything else I should replace/rebuild/clean? I guess I'm asking for best practices of someone who's been here before.
3. Is it possible to have the crank machined and use oversized bearings, or am I better off going with all new, stock stuff.
4. Since the bottom half of the engine is going to be exposed and it has ~120K on the engine, is there anything down there I might as well replace since it's apart? (Other than timing belt stuff - it was just done before I bought the car)

Any help or advise is appreciated. Thanks!
There is nothing in that oil analysis that says spun bearing... They said the amount of metal indicated bearing wear. If you have no knock, and you can't see visible metal particles in your oil, I wouldn't be jumping on the "my motor is toast" bandwagon yet...

I'd get the pan off and inspect the bearings... Most turbo motors I've done 120k's on have had pretty ugly main bearings. More often than not, you're able to roll some new bearings in and call it a day.

If it does have enough damage to need torn down, don't stop at the bottom end... You need to completely tear it down and clean EVERYTHING... and when you're done cleaning, clean it again... You don't want to go to all the trouble of swapping out a crank and have it killed because you missed something.

A new crank is best, but a regrind is fine provided you use a competent crank grinding service, and pull all the blind plugs out of the oil galleys for a proper cleaning. Don't just order a crank kit from a parts store... Those high volume engine warehouses have pretty bad quality control.
 

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There is nothing in that oil analysis that says spun bearing... They said the amount of metal indicated bearing wear. If you have no knock, and you can't see visible metal particles in your oil, I wouldn't be jumping on the "my motor is toast" bandwagon yet...

I'd get the pan off and inspect the bearings... Most turbo motors I've done 120k's on have had pretty ugly main bearings. More often than not, you're able to roll some new bearings in and call it a day.

If it does have enough damage to need torn down, don't stop at the bottom end... You need to completely tear it down and clean EVERYTHING... and when you're done cleaning, clean it again... You don't want to go to all the trouble of swapping out a crank and have it killed because you missed something.

A new crank is best, but a regrind is fine provided you use a competent crank grinding service, and pull all the blind plugs out of the oil galleys for a proper cleaning. Don't just order a crank kit from a parts store... Those high volume engine warehouses have pretty bad quality control.
Thanks, that's helpful advise for me to consider when deciding to regrind the crank or buy a new one. It's the iron content of the oil sample that has me the most worried because I assume the iron is being sheared off of the crank along with the bearing material. If the iron content wasn't so out of whack, I'd be more optimistic about just replacing bearings. Who knows though, I may get in there and find things are better than I expected.

If you were going to order a crank, what would you get, assuming you were not planning on ever upgrading to gain more hp?
 

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Thanks black94, that is exactly my fear. There is no rod knock at this point, so I don't know if that is any kind of reliable indicator as to how many more miles I have to go before hitting that point of total catastrophe. I feel like it could make the drive just fine, but it would be nerve racking.

What happened to yours? What was your personal experience?
Mine had low oil pressure at idle when hot for some time. Hard to tell exactly what the pressure was with that stock gauge. Then one day, a couple of miles from the house I heard what sounded like lifter tick. It was strange though, because it was at cruise and the motor was warmed up. I was trying to figure it out (a minute or so later) the motor started clanking and I pulled it over. I tried to get it home but the motor basically died.

Wish I would have thought to take pics of the crank, but it was gouged horribly.

Rather than rebuilding, I had a pretty good source for a new Mitsu shortblock, and went that route. That was 7-8 years ago.
 

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Mine had low oil pressure at idle when hot for some time. Hard to tell exactly what the pressure was with that stock gauge. Then one day, a couple of miles from the house I heard what sounded like lifter tick. It was strange though, because it was at cruise and the motor was warmed up. I was trying to figure it out (a minute or so later) the motor started clanking and I pulled it over. I tried to get it home but the motor basically died.

Wish I would have thought to take pics of the crank, but it was gouged horribly.

Rather than rebuilding, I had a pretty good source for a new Mitsu shortblock, and went that route. That was 7-8 years ago.
Wow, sounds like that was pretty sudden. My oil pressure has always been on the low end of what I guess is the normal range on the stock gauge. Was yours ever lower than that?
 

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I bought the car when it was 5 years old with 26K on it. Totally stock, not beaten whatsoever, and beautiful. From day one at hot idle, pressure was about 2-3 little bars from the bottom. I figured that was "normal". Then at around 100K, I installed big bore lifters. Oil pressure immediately dropped down another bar or so. I even saw the light once or twice. The bearing spun not long after that. :(
 

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I bought the car when it was 5 years old with 26K on it. Totally stock, not beaten whatsoever, and beautiful. From day one at hot idle, pressure was about 2-3 little bars from the bottom. I figured that was "normal". Then at around 100K, I installed big bore lifters. Oil pressure immediately dropped down another bar or so. I even saw the light once or twice. The bearing spun not long after that. :(
Dang, that is a shame. Those lifters must have robbed the bottom half of oil. Wouldn't have thought they would make that big of a difference. It always seemed to me these cars had chronically low oil pressure even when everything else is otherwise normal. I don't recall ever seeing the pressure gauge in the middle of the normal range, unless under some acceleration.
 

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where do i look to see if anything like this is messed up
do i need to jack it up on all fours ? or =what should i do ?
You mean to check your crank and bearings for wear? Yep, on stands high enough to drop the exhaust, transfer case, and anything else in the way of pulling the oil pan to see what you've got.
 
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