[alorcass]

Hi Guys. Went to do a little shopping last week, took a left turn and as I came out of the turn and had no power. I could just about keep the motor running though it wouldn't idle for long. It coughed, spluttered and banged and pressing the gas pedal made no difference.
I did call a friend who knows more about these motors than I do and he was pretty adament that I had a split or diconnection in the Y pipe side of things. I've looked but can find nothing there. Also been in to the intercoolers.
My question is could the fault that gives these symptoms be somewhere or something else? Thanks.

 

[Paul H.]

Its hard to see sometimes but yeah it sounds like a pipe jumped off somewhere. Usually its the Y pipe where it connects to the throttle body. Ive also seen the pipe at the intercooler and the BOV come off.

 

[white93gt]

My question is could the fault that gives these symptoms be somewhere or something else? Thanks.

Depending on year (unknown) ECU capacitor failure could also cause same symptoms.

Any CEL (code) showing or retained in memory?

 

[alorcass]

Sorry guys, It's a late 94 VR4. There was no warning before the breakdown and I have no dianostic instruments due to the fact all the ones I've tried don't work.
Thanks Paul, I'll keep looking.

 

[white93gt]

Any CEL (code) showing or retained in memory?

............... I have no dianostic instruments due to the fact all the ones I've tried don't work.

Don’t need diagnostic instruments to pull codes on a ’94 car, below is link for guidance on '94 & '95 year cars for pulling codes, by simply grounding pin 1 of data link connector and then watching CEL light flashes with ignition turned to on. And a clearer picture of data link connector pin 1 grounded below that, its just flipped upside down from one shown if link which is from factory manual.

CHANGED PLUGS AND CABLES, RUNS STUTTERING

Also, with a 95, you can check the Engine faults yourself. You simply ground pin 1 of the diagnostic port and then read the flashes of the Check Engine light when you turn the key to the ON (not START) position. Long pulses count for 10, short pulses count for 1. So, LONG, LONG, LONG, SHORT...

www.3si.org

 

[white93gt]

You could also pull ECU (link below on how to do that) and take clear pictures of board top side to post here. That would allow us to see capacitors installed and maybe see if any visual problem signs are apparent. Be aware those four small cover screws are often tight, so use proper fitting Phillips head screw driver and a lot of inward force when breaking them lose.

Stealth 316 - ECM Removal

 

[alorcass]

Don’t need diagnostic instruments to pull codes on a ’94 car, below is link for guidance on '94 & '95 year cars for pulling codes, by simply grounding pin 1 of data link connector and then watching CEL light flashes with ignition turned to on. And a clearer picture of data link connector pin 1 grounded below that, its just flipped upside down from one shown if link which is from factory manual.

CHANGED PLUGS AND CABLES, RUNS STUTTERING

Also, with a 95, you can check the Engine faults yourself. You simply ground pin 1 of the diagnostic port and then read the flashes of the Check Engine light when you turn the key to the ON (not START) position. Long pulses count for 10, short pulses count for 1. So, LONG, LONG, LONG, SHORT...

www.3si.org

View attachment 303366

Is this the skt I'd usually connect a diagnostic tool into? I hav to make sure of all these things as I'm in the UK and RHD iss laid out a little differently here.

 

[white93gt]

Is this the skt I'd usually connect a diagnostic tool into?

Yes it is, called data link connector which code readers connect to. Not sure where located on RHD cars, but under dash just right of drivers right knee on LHD cars near center console.

 

[Angelas]

MAF? Mine threw check engine light though

 

[alorcass]

Unfortunately I tried this and got just the blinking of a no fault condition. Anyone with any more ideas out there? I'm getting desperate.
Could a leak in the input to the turbos from the air filter be a cause? I can't see one but I think I can feel one if I get a finger to the rear turbo. I was told it's the wrong side of the turbo to cause a problem but the Volume air flow sensor is on the input side so it must be doing something.

 

[OhioSpyderman]

Have you checked the mechanical timing (maybe the belt jumped a tooth or more).
When was the last 60K done on the car?
Check the fuel pressure? (maybe your pump is dying).
Clogged fuel filter?

You have to be methodical about your approach to diagnosing and fixing issues like these.
Unfortunately issues like these don't fix themselves...

Bob.

 

[alorcass]

Have you checked the mechanical timing (maybe the belt jumped a tooth or more).
When was the last 60K done on the car?
Check the fuel pressure? (maybe your pump is dying).
Clogged fuel filter?

You have to be methodical about your approach to diagnosing and fixing issues like these.
Unfortunately issues like these don't fix themselves...

Bob.

Timing belt replaced less than 2000 miles ago. I will check the fuel pressure but the way this fault occured was very sudden with no load on the engine, just a smooth left turn. Then no acceleration and some banging and spluttering.

 

[alorcass]

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No faults showing. How would I go about checking this capacitor(s)?

 

[white93gt]

................. How would I go about checking this capacitor(s)?

First step would do what I suggested in post #6.