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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
im in fairfield, new jersey and i would only need it to take off the cylinder head bolts (obviously) and then whoever can have it back, because i might buy one. the head is ready to come off and i just need the tool. if no one responds to this, i might buy one in that case as well.
thanks

chris
 

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Your talking about the allen head one right? I cant remember what exact size it is but there only like $5 and you just get the socket one to put on your 1/2 drive rachet.

They are metric and I think you can get them from sears....
Does anyone else remember the size? For some reason Im thinking 10 but I dont thnk thats right....
 

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the tool is nothing special except in price... I were you I would just use the 10mm hex socket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
uh oh

i dropped the 10mm hex socket in some kind of hole on the top of the head. is it an oil passage? whatever it is, where does it go?
 

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High P.O. factor on that one I'm sure. cause you can't get the head off to see where the tool went without the tool...

Try using a magnet to retrieve the tool. (They sell them in any automotive store on a telescoping extension for $3-4)

Also, the thread at http://www.3si.org/portal/forums/sh...15&highlight=removing head bolts&pagenumber=2

is a pretty good discussion about "what next" if you find that youn too have a broken piston.



Clint
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
clint...

i just bought another socket...the head is off...that cylinder weve been talking about for a month is cracked and the cylinder wall where the cracked piece wouldve rode up against is scuffed up. head gasket looked alright.

im probably gonna rebuild as soon as i get money and parts. starting this winter break for me i guess.

now i guess the only thing in my interest is to find out how to pull the engine.

thanks for your help

chris
 

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Congrats on getting the head removed and sorry about the damage to the piston although it could have been MUCH worse. (I am sure at least one member on the list has thrown a connecting rod through the block!!)

Obviously your call on what you want to do next based on budget, schedule and plans for the car.

COuple of thoughts:

1. MOST IMPORTANT thing is to get a handle on is why it blew up in the first place. If you don't know it could happen again.

2. If the damage is not too severe on the cylinder liner, you can resurface the cylinder and replace the piston/rings without pulling the engine out of the car. (as per earlier link that I posted)

Perfectly legit repair and it won't break the bank. (You are also at about the 70% mark if you take this route but only at the 25% mark if you are doing a complete rebuild.)

Also, if you repair the piston now, you get your wheels back and can re-build at your leasure. (As long as you use liberal mounts of anti-seize on the exhaut manifold bolts, they will be MUCH easier to take off the next time.)

Again, congrats on being gutsy enough to tackle the job.



Clint
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
how it happened...

well im assuming at one point there was too much detonation. i always check my air fuel guage and EGT guage and they are always fine. never had EGTs past 1200F. i dont know...???
 

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It would be interesting to see what others think are possible causes for the broken piston. The nature of the damage may give some insight into whether it was detonation that shattered the piston or if the piston smacked a sticking valve.


Clint
 
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