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18yr Revived 95' VR4
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey,

I've been working on getting my Grandpa's 95 VR4 up and running again for the last couple months, almost done putting it back together after changing the timing belt—everything is perfectly on the timing marks. Pretty much in the last steps here

Didn't take as many photos as I probably should have, and some of the photos are a bit confusing. What bolts go where on the engine mount block that bolts to the side of the block? Also completely forgot to take pictures of the alternator bracket and how that goes on

Additionally, if I manage to get everything back together this weekend what is the process to start it up for the first time in 20 yrs? Should I fog the cylinders, put the intake manifold back on, hook up the battery and try turning the key? It has new engine oil, oil filter, drained the gas tank, new battery, not sure what else I need to check. Car was garaged so it has zero rust on it.

These are the photos I took while taking the engine mount off, and I completely forgot to take pictures of the alternator bracket thing and what bolts that uses—some of the photos aren't very descriptive and that's why I'm confused, learned my lesson on this one


These are the remaining bolts that I have, need some help with which ones go where on the engine mounts, as well as how the alternator goes on as I somehow forgot to take pictures of this

 

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1992 3000GT VR4
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OMG!!!!!!
THIS IS BAD JU JU....
Did I put you on edge good.....

Now with the remaining bolts left over
This is going to be trial by error ..... if they dont go in all the way and they feel as if they are bottom'd out.... or if they don't fit .... then they are in deed in the wrong places ..... the ones on the floor would probably go to you fender well cover ....the longest larger bolt.... would go thru you barrel engine mount top side along with couple other bolts that would go to your mounting bracket for your alternator .... don't spaz out on us just .... do it in reverse order and things will come back to ya and where they need to go .... ok
 

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1992 3000GT VR4
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For start up..... I would NOT ...let this engine fire up ..... need to turn the assembly over by hand .... a good 2 or 3 times (full turns) before anything else..... if all goes well doing that ..... the system then needs to be primed without engine running ..... killing power to your injectors or to coil packs either or doesn't matter (unplug wires making sure you put them back as they came off same spots) just make sure car doesn't crank up .... then get it turn the engine over till you see good to normal oil pressure in gauge.... after that crank engine up let it idle DO NOT REV.. the engine let it warm up on its own..... reason for this is to get engine oil to pre lube before initial start up .... dry crank case bearings and rockers upon crank up will in some cases cause damage to lobes etc.....
Pretty sure someone else would pipe in and give you a better distinctive description on how to do this as well..... just what I've done in the past
 

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disconnect your crank position sensor and your cam angle sensor located by the timing belt covers on the middle where they meet. crank over and you will look for the oil indicator light to come on. thats usually a good sign engine is primed. check fuel pressure and look for leaks. theres write ups in here how to go about it all for a "first" start up. just look over the small things. tight hoses, fluids topped off, sensors connected. doesnt sound like you removed and replaced a whole lot. you got this!
 

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18yr Revived 95' VR4
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
disconnect your crank position sensor and your cam angle sensor located by the timing belt covers on the middle where they meet. crank over and you will look for the oil indicator light to come on. thats usually a good sign engine is primed. check fuel pressure and look for leaks. theres write ups in here how to go about it all for a "first" start up. just look over the small things. tight hoses, fluids topped off, sensors connected. doesnt sound like you removed and replaced a whole lot. you got this!
Okay perfect, so taking off the intake manifold and fogging the cylinders probably isn't necessary?

Just priming it will do? Also what does the oil indicator look like, or is it pretty obvious?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
For start up..... I would NOT ...let this engine fire up ..... need to turn the assembly over by hand .... a good 2 or 3 times (full turns) before anything else..... if all goes well doing that ..... the system then needs to be primed without engine running ..... killing power to your injectors or to coil packs either or doesn't matter (unplug wires making sure you put them back as they came off same spots) just make sure car doesn't crank up .... then get it turn the engine over till you see good to normal oil pressure in gauge.... after that crank engine up let it idle DO NOT REV.. the engine let it warm up on its own..... reason for this is to get engine oil to pre lube before initial start up .... dry crank case bearings and rockers upon crank up will in some cases cause damage to lobes etc.....
Pretty sure someone else would pipe in and give you a better distinctive description on how to do this as well..... just what I've done in the past
Thank you! I've hand cranked the motor twice which was part of the timing belt process in the video, I guess I could do that a few more times once it's fully assembled. Then going off of @vr4allday I'll disconnect the crank and cam angle sensor to prevent startup, and turn it over for 10 seconds a time until it's primed and has good oil pressure (what value am I looking for?) Then fire it up and let it idle until it's warm.
 

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Would definitely flush out the old ..... as best as you can ..... now with coolant .... extended life would be fine .... or 75 % strait coolant with 25% distilled water mix ..... or just get pre mixed 50/50 really up to you..... just make sure your more on the coolant side of things..... more on the water side will in deed cause you some ISSUES!!..... like leaving a cast iron frying pan outside in the rain and come back month later .... to use it ..... (rust).... iron blocks don't go well with water ... turns into mud .... blocks off ports and passages within the engine ... first thing it will kill is heater core and radiator
In running a 75% coolant / 25 mix in my 92 VR4
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Would definitely flush out the old ..... as best as you can ..... now with coolant .... extended life would be fine .... or 75 % strait coolant with 25% distilled water mix ..... or just get pre mixed 50/50 really up to you..... just make sure your more on the coolant side of things..... more on the water side will in deed cause you some ISSUES!!..... like leaving a cast iron frying pan outside in the rain and come back month later .... to use it ..... (rust).... iron blocks don't go well with water ... turns into mud .... blocks off ports and passages within the engine ... first thing it will kill is heater core and radiator
In running a 75% coolant / 25 mix in my 92 VR4
Okay perfect thank you! We just stuck some 50/50 in there for now and I'll change it later once I can drive it back to my place
 

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Crank it up let it idle and bleed the coolant system of air .... or it will over heat....before you go anywhere

Keep an eye on temp ...... and coolant level till there is no more air in system (filler neck)....
Turn your heat on as well .... this way you can better terminate that ther is hot coolant going thru heater core in dash for heat ......
If it blows cold.....either the system still has air in it .....(coolant) or heater core is plugged up with calcium gunk from old coolant .... and will either one be flush or replaced ..... cars been sitting for 20 years.... so if ther is good heat .... thumbs up
 

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A coolant funnel would help speed this process up with little to zero mess and waste
Make sure there isnt stuff floating around in coolant as well .... with a semi see thru funnel better line of sight sitting in driver seat .....
But make sure ther isnt alot of trash coming out ..... if there is need to do the flush right then and ther ..... your turbos are coolant and oil cooled .... you dont need particles floating thru coolant system..... stuff will goes thru or plug up coolant passages within the turbo cartridge (or housing)
 
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